Lt80 cylinder melt down and rear clutch full if grease.
#1
Lt80 cylinder melt down and rear clutch full if grease.
I just purchased a lt80 not even sure of the year everything looked good and was tight. (Steering,brakes,suspension.) The plastic and tires are pretty decent too. I gave 250.00 for it knowing it would run on starting fluid and because it needed the top end done only 66psi of compression. So long story short I bring it home tear it down and wow cylinder is black inside with major damage, the piston was missing the skirt on the intake side and part of the exhaust side as well. Seeing this I knew I would have to split the case to find and clean any debris only a small part found. I would like to replace the crank bearings and seals as well as the top end one crank bearing stayed on crank one stayed in the case. Not sure if this is normal? Also while taking clutch side apart I wanted to find the rollers I see everyone talk about the rear part of the clutch seems to be packed full of grey or black grease.
1. Bearing and seal help.
2. Clutch help.
3. Any one use a aftermarket cylinder and piston kit or should I buy a oem cylinder?
1. Bearing and seal help.
2. Clutch help.
3. Any one use a aftermarket cylinder and piston kit or should I buy a oem cylinder?
Last edited by Chuckq350; 09-02-2017 at 06:00 PM. Reason: Spelling
#6
#7
I recently did a ground-up resto on mine which included replacing all bearing & seals. LT80 (Jack) will also be a very good resource for your LT80 resto.
When I split my case I got the same result. I don't know what you have for tools/expertise, but getting the bearing off the crank can be PITA because it can literally sit right on the counterweight making a bearing puller almost useless (and I have the puller designed for this). I carefully taped out the one in the case (be sure to adequately support the case before attempting this) and had my local engine shop remove the one on the crank - had them confirm trueness while there - $20 well spent. While apart it's best to check the connecting rod play on the crank...if there is noticeable up/down play then you'll be having the crank split and a new needle bearing installed and then trued...mine was surprisingly fresh...
When ready to put back together we can suggest some tips.
Clutch - yes...pull it apart...take pics and we'll guide you from there...
Cylinder - this is a no brainer for me...go OEM!!! I'm still dicking around with the POS Chinese cheapo Ebay kit my neighbor had me reluctantly put into his LT80...poor machining and worse hardware...definitely not a fan of the one I've been dealing with
When I split my case I got the same result. I don't know what you have for tools/expertise, but getting the bearing off the crank can be PITA because it can literally sit right on the counterweight making a bearing puller almost useless (and I have the puller designed for this). I carefully taped out the one in the case (be sure to adequately support the case before attempting this) and had my local engine shop remove the one on the crank - had them confirm trueness while there - $20 well spent. While apart it's best to check the connecting rod play on the crank...if there is noticeable up/down play then you'll be having the crank split and a new needle bearing installed and then trued...mine was surprisingly fresh...
When ready to put back together we can suggest some tips.
Clutch - yes...pull it apart...take pics and we'll guide you from there...
Cylinder - this is a no brainer for me...go OEM!!! I'm still dicking around with the POS Chinese cheapo Ebay kit my neighbor had me reluctantly put into his LT80...poor machining and worse hardware...definitely not a fan of the one I've been dealing with
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#9
Thank you very much. When I get to the clutch I will post pics and go from there. I found a site suzuki parts nation prices are way better than my local dealer. Looks like I can buy everything for about 285.00 which isn't too bad in my mind. (Cylinder, piston and rings, new circlips, pin, pin bearing, seals and crank bearings) thinking of using a complete aftermarket gasket kit. Also looking for a rebuild kit for my 20mm DG carburetor.
#10
Happy to help...I used a good aftermarket gasket kit as well. My bearings & seals mostly came from All ***** (or something like that)...
All top-end items came from Jack Moore (LT80) and are Suzuki...
If you split the cases and you think your tyke is going to run that thing hard I'm going to suggest you brace the cases/swing-arm. It is unfortunately the major weakness in an otherwise great machine...I just couldn't see myself spending a ton (mostly time) on everything else I did only for the case to break...see pics below
All top-end items came from Jack Moore (LT80) and are Suzuki...
If you split the cases and you think your tyke is going to run that thing hard I'm going to suggest you brace the cases/swing-arm. It is unfortunately the major weakness in an otherwise great machine...I just couldn't see myself spending a ton (mostly time) on everything else I did only for the case to break...see pics below