Bayou electrical 2001 300 2x4 Will only run {runs good) with starter switch engaged or regulator unplugged. New reg, new cdi, new bat. With the old reg. It would also stay running with the lights on. The new one no.It will start with recoil if I disconnect the bat.but dies as soon as I connect it. Crazy bet no one has a clue..

 

First off, what voltage is the regulator pumping into the battery, seems rather like both of them are overcharging. As you can run it with the old one connected, try that, over 14.5v and it is overcharging. If you changed CDIs before changing voltage regulators, you may have "cooked" the new CDI by putting too many volts through it.

 

14.5 to the battery.However I can only check that this way. I clamped the + cable to the post pressed and held starter button until it started removed the clamp quickly then released the starter and it stayed running so i check voltage at 14.5 (with bat disconnected). So I reconnect bat and it dies. Unplug reg it starts fine remove bat cable it dies.Hook every thing up and turn on all lights and aux fan and it runs with 14.5 v at bat , turnoff lights and it dies. Check alt. output 39.? v (within range) stator resistance around .4 (within range) The only thing Thats difficult to read is the rectifier. The test the book shows is MickyMouse.and gives no definitive specs. says results vary and mine did for sure after 99 do over test.Ive been through 1000 forums and can not find any useful info. So I signed up here ( my first ever sign up). And if someone helps me in any way to figure this out. I will dedicate time every week helping others with their bikes. I refuse to let a shop touch one of my bikes.Just stubborn. Im no novice 10 years amateur motocross Yamaha , 6 yrs. semi pro Honda , 27 yrs Master electrician, Welder fabricator and have built a lot of fast cars. I very seldom ask for help but am quick to give it. I just just cant figure this out. it will run every way but the right way. I bought it fir $100.00 and it sat for a year . never looked at it. then I decided to ether fix all the junk I had or get it gone. So I did no trouble.Man Ive got a Honda auquatrax that I fixed with tons of computer problems,fixed em runs great, boys went wakeboarding yesterday no problem. This thing is simple yet well dont know.When I bought it. Every wire was chewed up on it to the nub. . No copper left, hence 100.00. I rewired it per the schematic and it ran fine. As I did, I noticed everything underneath was new, not a scratch, it probably doesn't have 50 hrs. on it. Motor is spotless inside. After rewire and new carb it started first try ran perfect so I rode it a while and it was trying to die cutting on- off like a bad connection and it was. the wires on the cdi were only 1/8 inch and good solder joint was difficult and so If you moved the box it would run right so i got a new one thats when this began. then new reg. then new bat. all wiring and every switch relay and ground checked.Its gonna run even if I have to weld a lawn mower engine in it. Then I'm gonna give it away.. Thanks..

 

Not sure the 300 is the same but the 400 has a 6 wire regulator. One or two others have and I've never been able to work out why. One pos is wired direct to battery, as in most bikes, but another pos is wired through the key switch. Just wondering if one of them is wired wrong. The only suggestion I can give, that should fix it, is to get a wiring loom from a breaker. These are usually cheap, but getting a good one is difficult as the goons who dismantle them often cut components off instead of disconnecting them.

 

The 300 has 7 wires 3 from alt (3 yellow), 2 grounds (Blk\Yel), 2 hot
(Whites) both to bat. 1 hot to back side of ign circuit.(brwn). So the brwn seems to be there to pick up the voltage when no bat output is available. Pull start etc. Its not complicated. I mean 12- 14 volts is 12-14 volts it doesn't matter where it ties in. its there or it isn't. In this case it seems like it is to much voltage. I mean that is the symptoms . It will run on alt/ reg only or bat only. Any time I alt voltage and bat voltage come in contact it will not run.Unless I turn all lights and fan on, then it will run. But if you turn them off it dies. Thats an over voltage symptom. If I heard this and someone ask for my opinion. I would say that it sounds like a parallel system that has somehow become cross wired in series. That could possibly be the only thing that may cause all of these crazy running combinations, but its very unlikely . My wiring harness is way better than the orjginal so if there is something terminated wrong . I will find it and correct it but that is unlikely also. I will go back through it again and check.if I dont find a problem then I think I will make a temporary short harness with only the vital components and a single pole switch and a momentary switch. Maybe try it that way. wont take long just to erase any doubt about the wiring and other components . If all is the same i will get another new ignitor then new alt. unless one of you guys figure it out.I will take and try any suggestions Thanks .

 

I'm new here too... sorry I don't have any suggestions just a strange co-misery. I have the KLF 220A. It has a weird problem at the starter solenoid I'm trying to figure out. The Start button it would seem sends a ground signal to one of the terminals on the Starter Solenoid (through a relay which is activated by the start key). OK. But when everything is plugged in, and I turn the key, ALL solenoid terminals become hot. And nothing happens. What the hell? It would seem that when the battery is disconnected, press the start button and a ground signal goes to the relay open terminal. Other side of said terminal leads to start solenoid (looking down the post on the right). But again - when power is connected to the key (by way of plugging in the harness to the starter solenoid) - that same terminal becomes hot! All the normal stuff seems good - Bat neg grounded to engine. Bat pos to start solenoid main terminal (brand new solenoid). Other side to starter. everything looks fine but how is this happening? Turn the key and it takes over the start switch - sending POS down to the solenoid when it should be a ground!

 

What year is it ? I know the schems by heart and every wire / wire color on the 300. Not sure about the 220. But if they are similar than you are incorrect. All switch signals are 12v positive except for two and they are what supply grnd. The neutral switch sends grnd to the starter CIRCUIT RELAY sent through a LT GRN wire. The 12 v is sent by the run/ stop switch through a brown wire. that is the coil or control circuit of that relay. Two black wires also are there they are your contactor circuit. One comes from the start button with 12 v and since the relay is energized before the start button is the contacts are closed and the second black wire is energized also which goes to the 12 v. pos side of your STARTER RELAY,the grnd should be constant on this relay through a blk/y wire. Maybe its different but thats pretty much how all the 300s work 1988- 2007.12v through key switch to stop/run switch to strt button to starter circuit relay (as neutral sw supplies grnd for this one) then to starter relay . In that order.

 

Hey thanks for getting back. I'm still trying to figure out what year it is. Any ideas where to look?

Perhaps they are similar, I don't really know. I did find a wiring diagram searching google and it reads Kawasaki Bayou KLF 220 '88 - 2003 so I guess it's probably fairly consistent.

So I hear what you say... and you mentioned the two black wires which are the contactor circuit. These wires appear in the 220 wiring diagram at the Starter Circuit Relay, AND one black wire leads directly to the start button, and through the start button to ground. The other black wire leads directly the starter relay. This would make sense as a means to provide ground to the coil of the Starter Solenoid. BUT this black wire is also tied into the CDI. I wonder if that's where the problem is coming from.... Because when the key is on, that black wire (at the starter solenoid) is hot when it should be dead. And as such pressing the start button has no effect. Now it seems like the CDI is sending a conflicting signal down the same wire which is supposed to supply ground to the Starter Solenoid Coil (when you press the start button).... so nothing happens. It's starting to make sense. But if so, why would the CDI send this conflicting signal? The stop switch is in the run position... so what gives? BTW as this occurs the Neutral light is on, and Starter Relay Circuit is energized.
-Ocean

 

The serial @ should be on frame by where you place your left foot the 10th number will tell us the year. I will look today at a schem for a 220 and maybe we canfigure it out. I think that the grnd your seeing may actually be just the button. I just looked and it does look like ground (it goes outside the switch cluster ) but its the button not grnd. Here is the 300.
This is an older one mine is 2001 but only some colors are different.

 

The cdi sends no signal except to the ignition coil. Its an ignitor. I made a short harness for mine with like 3 wires and it runs it takes very little and oh so simple. Its easy to over complicate it. I can wire one of these 50 different ways and they will start and run. The main thing is to id the critical controls. Your on the right track . Get the yr. and that will help get the right diagram..