650 a clatterin...
#2
Do a search under clanking.
I talked to the kawi tech rep and they said the play in the trans is normal when associated with that specific event. IF you do take it to the dealer, PLEASE let us know what they said in detail. Thanks.
I talked to the kawi tech rep and they said the play in the trans is normal when associated with that specific event. IF you do take it to the dealer, PLEASE let us know what they said in detail. Thanks.
#3
I know what you mean. My buddies makes a little noise but no big deal. This sound is BAD. There is no way it could be normal. i think it might have something to do with the engine braking.You know i like this machine, but I am having troubles and I only have 9 hours on the thing...
#6
TextI rode mine for about an hour after I got it home from the dealer and it started making a terrible racket when I let off the gas in low range only. Took it to the shop and they had it for a few days and said it was a problem with the engine braking system. Besides that I've had nothing but praise for this thing. Its totally awesome! Traded in a Rubicon with 300 miles on it and there is no comparison. This Prairie is a whole different breed.
#7
Mine is clattering in low too. I was ridding down a hill and all of a sudden it was like the engine braking let loose and then kicked back in and started clattering, very loud, it's easily heard over the engine. Mine has 9 hours on it and it just started making noise. I took off the belt cover and checked the belt deflection and the belt width and they are both in spec, on the high side though. Today I might mess around with the gear range selector before I take it in.
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#9
The braking Servo makes more of a "buzzing" sound. The loud clicking sound in low is probably the shifting rod out of adjustment. Don't expect all of the Dealers to be familiar with the Prairie 650 systems! I posted this when I adjusted my linkage and it is easy to do:
I'm reading alot of stuff about clicking and clanking. Here is what I know from my machine. In 2WD above 12MPH, you can here one clunk when you let of the throttle and get on it again. It acks like it is gear backlash in the rear gearset. In 4WD above 12 MPH there is an additional sound coming from the front differential that is usually one or two clunks. I am not sure about these sounds. In 2WD or 4WD at speeds near 2MPH, and usually going downhill, you can make the engine brake servo engage and disengage which sounds like clicking, about 4 times a second, but the sound includes the quiet whirrling of the servo motor, like what you hear after you turn the key off. In 2WD or 4WD and in low range only, I could go above 10MPH, let off the throttle quickly, and hear a loud clicking sound from the transmission area. You could feel the vibrations if you touched the shift lever **** when the clicking occurred. If I pushed forward on the shift ****, the clicking was greatly reduced. I looked in the service manual and I think the prescribed method of setting up the shift linkage is inadequate and I believe that is why so many units need to be adjusted properly. It relies on the positioning of an arm on a splined post by lining up two marks, and then by measuring a gap between the shift lever and the shift guide while in the neutral position. My unit had the arm slightly out of sync with the splined shaft with respect to the two alignment marks. It looked like you had to choose between being off to the right or left based on the splines positions on the shaft and arm. I left the arm/post as it was and shifted into neutral. Then I turned the linkage rod, after loosening the locknuts on each end(one had righthand threads and the other has lefthand). If I set it to the spec in the service manual, I could ride it in low and get it to click. I turned it a few turns at a time in both directions until all gear selections were positive and it would no longer click in low. I think I effectively shortened the linkage a slight amount which was indicated by the fact that pushing forward on the shift **** was helping the problem. I think the rear backlash sound and the braking servo cycling is a normal characteristic of this machine, but I do not have an explanation for the front differential clunking sounds yet. I have not seen any other 650's on the trails to ask them about theirs so I would like to know from other 650 owners which type of sounds have you noticed and under what conditions that they occur. Also I think I need to adjust the drive belt because I can make it slip if I put the Quad in a bind and slowly apply the throttle. The curb weight with all accessories and myself on it is about 930lbs., it has over 400 miles on it and alot of those were from some serious thrashing at Upper Tellico. So far I have only lost two of the fender trim fasteners which split the plastic holes on the way out but not to the point of being unusable, and really banged up the skid plates. A word of CAUTION: I was going about 10MPH on trail 4 at Tellico and the front skid plate caught a rock sticking up and embedded in the ground about 12 inches. This rock had a pointed piece that caught the indented part of the front angled skid plate. Usually the angle of the skid plate causes the ATV to ramp up and over the obstacle. This time the rock, caught in the depression of the skid plate rotated in the ground and cammed upward until it stuck another large rock embedded behind it. The pointed part of the rock bent the front skid plate until it contacted a frame bar located about an inche behind the plate. When this happened, the ATV stopped dead in it's tracks and sent me over the handle bars landing headfirst on the front bumper and ground. I didn't even know what was happening until I was flying thru the air. I have since mounted the Metaltech aftermarket plates from front to rear. The front plate is stronger and shaped better to prevent this. Two things about these plates. They are not cheap (about $380 for the full set to your door), and plan on some hastle trying to get the bolt holes to line up, especially the countersunk holes!
I'm reading alot of stuff about clicking and clanking. Here is what I know from my machine. In 2WD above 12MPH, you can here one clunk when you let of the throttle and get on it again. It acks like it is gear backlash in the rear gearset. In 4WD above 12 MPH there is an additional sound coming from the front differential that is usually one or two clunks. I am not sure about these sounds. In 2WD or 4WD at speeds near 2MPH, and usually going downhill, you can make the engine brake servo engage and disengage which sounds like clicking, about 4 times a second, but the sound includes the quiet whirrling of the servo motor, like what you hear after you turn the key off. In 2WD or 4WD and in low range only, I could go above 10MPH, let off the throttle quickly, and hear a loud clicking sound from the transmission area. You could feel the vibrations if you touched the shift lever **** when the clicking occurred. If I pushed forward on the shift ****, the clicking was greatly reduced. I looked in the service manual and I think the prescribed method of setting up the shift linkage is inadequate and I believe that is why so many units need to be adjusted properly. It relies on the positioning of an arm on a splined post by lining up two marks, and then by measuring a gap between the shift lever and the shift guide while in the neutral position. My unit had the arm slightly out of sync with the splined shaft with respect to the two alignment marks. It looked like you had to choose between being off to the right or left based on the splines positions on the shaft and arm. I left the arm/post as it was and shifted into neutral. Then I turned the linkage rod, after loosening the locknuts on each end(one had righthand threads and the other has lefthand). If I set it to the spec in the service manual, I could ride it in low and get it to click. I turned it a few turns at a time in both directions until all gear selections were positive and it would no longer click in low. I think I effectively shortened the linkage a slight amount which was indicated by the fact that pushing forward on the shift **** was helping the problem. I think the rear backlash sound and the braking servo cycling is a normal characteristic of this machine, but I do not have an explanation for the front differential clunking sounds yet. I have not seen any other 650's on the trails to ask them about theirs so I would like to know from other 650 owners which type of sounds have you noticed and under what conditions that they occur. Also I think I need to adjust the drive belt because I can make it slip if I put the Quad in a bind and slowly apply the throttle. The curb weight with all accessories and myself on it is about 930lbs., it has over 400 miles on it and alot of those were from some serious thrashing at Upper Tellico. So far I have only lost two of the fender trim fasteners which split the plastic holes on the way out but not to the point of being unusable, and really banged up the skid plates. A word of CAUTION: I was going about 10MPH on trail 4 at Tellico and the front skid plate caught a rock sticking up and embedded in the ground about 12 inches. This rock had a pointed piece that caught the indented part of the front angled skid plate. Usually the angle of the skid plate causes the ATV to ramp up and over the obstacle. This time the rock, caught in the depression of the skid plate rotated in the ground and cammed upward until it stuck another large rock embedded behind it. The pointed part of the rock bent the front skid plate until it contacted a frame bar located about an inche behind the plate. When this happened, the ATV stopped dead in it's tracks and sent me over the handle bars landing headfirst on the front bumper and ground. I didn't even know what was happening until I was flying thru the air. I have since mounted the Metaltech aftermarket plates from front to rear. The front plate is stronger and shaped better to prevent this. Two things about these plates. They are not cheap (about $380 for the full set to your door), and plan on some hastle trying to get the bolt holes to line up, especially the countersunk holes!
#10
The one common theme I notice on this issue is that people are confused as to the causes of different sounds. People are attributing the shifter linkage adjustment to both the clicking and the clanking in the trans. The shifter adjustment is controlling the CLICKING people hear because the quad is not fully syncronized in the gear you are in. Also, if the shifter linkage is far enough out of adjustment you will actually hear a clanking type sound because the trans it jumping in and out of gear when you use the throttle. (prairie 633, I know you already said some of this, I'm just saying it a different way and adding a little)
The CLANKING people hear on the deceleration is NORMAL transmission play! As much as I would like to think it's not normal since it's so loud, kawi techs confirmed it is normal.
Another issue confusing people is that they think they have a problem with their EBC, when in fact they don't. They just don't understand how the ebc is supposed to work. You WILL hear it turn on and off as you slow to 2 mph, then below 2mph it turns off, then you coast for a few inches and go above 2mph and it turns on again. This happens over and over and you think it's a problem, and you want to have the guys at the dealer look at it. They don't know squat about this machine.
Rather than getting more confused as people bring up this issue over and over, let us no longer be confused. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
The CLANKING people hear on the deceleration is NORMAL transmission play! As much as I would like to think it's not normal since it's so loud, kawi techs confirmed it is normal.
Another issue confusing people is that they think they have a problem with their EBC, when in fact they don't. They just don't understand how the ebc is supposed to work. You WILL hear it turn on and off as you slow to 2 mph, then below 2mph it turns off, then you coast for a few inches and go above 2mph and it turns on again. This happens over and over and you think it's a problem, and you want to have the guys at the dealer look at it. They don't know squat about this machine.
Rather than getting more confused as people bring up this issue over and over, let us no longer be confused. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]


