I am replacing the rod, thrust washers, bearing and pin on the crank asssembly of my LT80. Can anyone tell me what the clearence is suppose to be between the thrust washer and crank or give me a better wasy to set it up? Any tips or tricks to do this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ryan.

 

As a new member to the forum I guess I need to learn to write more interesting titles to get pepole to read my post. Anyway, I broke down and took the crank in to be done for me. last night I started to assemble and as soon as I start to snug the case bolts the crank freezes up, at finger tight it drags. thay set it up with .021 in between the rod and thrust washer. Is this right? Am I wrong thinking this is to much? Dose any one know what a crank is supposed to measure from counterweight to counterweight on the out side? If anybody has any ideas on what I can do to fix please let me know. Thanks Ryan

 

Welcome to the forum! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Your title was fine. Sorry I missed it. I gotta miss one now and then, right? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]Had I seen it, I would have explained that I prefer to spend a few extra dollars and get a whole new crank. The pins are very small compared to big bike motors and can be very very hard to get together true. Just my opinion there.
Anyways, I measured 3 cranks. 2 factory (used) and 1 rebuilt stroker (new). They all measured 1.499 by my el-cheapo set of calipers (across the pin). I had a piece of .015 and put it between the thrust washer and the crank (Seems my feeler gauges have walked off),I would assume .021 would be fine in comparison.

I would check and see if your crank bearings are 100% on. You may be tightening up against a bearing.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] I've done this.

This job taxes my patience. I've learned to sand the crank till the bearings go on (yes it is still a tight fit).I then put the stator side of the case in my woodstove and heat it up (a torch works)then slide the crank in and cool. Repeat for clutch side of the case. The glue I use don't seem to have a heat problem and I've never had the cases leak.I imagine most of the bonds/glues used in this application would be fine to use.

 

Thanks LT80 , That is what I was looking for. I will go check that out and keep you posted if was it.
Thanks Ryan

 

update the rod pin in the crank is sticking out about .020 and draging on case. I called the shop that set it up for me, they told me I could slip a .018 feeler gage between the crank and trust washer and press the pin in the rest of the way. I will keep you updated.

 

Just curious,,
did the shop offer to fix it or (heaven forbid) a refund cuz of poor workmanship?

 

No refund, but they did offer to fix. Gas is nearly $2 , my expidtion gets 10mpg and It takes me 4 - 5 hours round trip, depending on traffic. So I will try it myself first. After the cost of haveing them do it, parts, and gas I have allready burned, I could have bought a new one.

 

I figured it was a location problem. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
OK, so do you have a way of checking the trueness now that you have to mess with it ?

 

I figured I'd take a piece of two-inch angle, set it on its' point, and set the crank in with the pin at the top to start with. If that looks good, I'll suspend it by its' bearings and turn it with a dial indicator - checking for trueness.

Any suggestions would be appriciated.

 

Sounds good to me. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]