for those who are sick of the E-ton auto choke
 

well i finally had the time to look at my sons E-ton 90. this thing has been such a pain to start all summer.the only way it will start is about 30 tries of starter fluid... it has the auto choke which just doesn't work. I ecided to remove it and convert it to manual. what i did was just remove the auto choke assembly and take it apart, all it is is a plunger which is down normally and a electric solinoid which pulls the plunger up to activate the choke. i removed the solinoid and tossed it. I removed the plunger and filled it with epoxy and a bolt, (use car wax on the bolt threads) then when the epoxy dried remove the bolt so now the plunger has a threaded hole inside it, I had a old brake cable with the threaded end on it which matched my bolt of course, so this now threads into my plunger. i drilled out the top of the assembly put it all back together so now the plunger it still in the down position but when I pull my cable it activates the choke, i put the carb back on and WOW, it fires right up and runs perfect......... and total cost $0 time involved about 1.5 hr including the time to think.... all I have to do now is add a lever on the handle bar but for now I just pull the cable.

for those who are sick of the E-ton auto choke
 

WOW. They sell a manual choke kit for them that is about $25. LOL but I'm glad you made it work. And it cost $ .00.

for those who are sick of the E-ton auto choke
 

yea, mine is a 2000 and i wasn't able to get a kit and I was really getting tired of trying to find one, but the kits I did find were around $45

for those who are sick of the E-ton auto choke
 

I just took the choke apart on my Dinli 90 because it wasn't working. The carb is a Walbro WFZ 2B with electric choke. I cut the housing in half & found a stange solinoid arrangement inside. There is a metal plunger with a brass end on it. The electrical part is 2 copper discs the diameter of the brass with an insulator between the two disc. The insulator is about 3/16 thick. It must setup a magnitic fiels when the voltage is applied tp pull the solinoid up.
I tried to get it to do something on the bench hooked up to a battery but didn't get anything.

I will try and do the cable conversion using the epoxy. Was your carb a Walbro also?

GeneB

for those who are sick of the E-ton auto choke
 

I don't know which Carb I have but, sounds like the same setup. I had a plastic sleeve I had to cut off then the you unscrewed the to halves of the electronic choke solinoid. I reused the housing and just plugged the holes so no dirt got inside with epoxy. I just drilled a new hole in the top of the housing for my Cable, I had a old break cable laying around which had a threaded end on it which works well. on mine the off position was the down position on the plunger, I used all the original springs and just added some washers to make them work and add some tension on the springs since the solinoid is now gone I had to add spacers in the housing. my battery is dead but it now starts every time on the first kick and once run the battery has enough juice to fire it up.