jaster,

yes i did try using different washers and lock nuts, but the tensioner threads were already stripped. as i said before multyple things were loose, likely causing the stripping in the first place.

lynn,
yes i am aware that the chain should not have no slack, unfortunately with this brand i am playing against the rules to make things work, what i did was put it max distance and tightened it up from there so that when i do hit a big bump it is capable of taking the hit.

 

bummer they were already stripped out. i don't know of any other style tensioner that would work. hmmm...... i don't know if a regular turnbuckle would attach. even though that'd be an upgraded grade of metal and stronger threads. . i'll do some looking around and see if i can find an upgrade of some sort.

 

Make sure your sprockets match and buy a O ring chain with the correct pitch for it. The non oring chains are junk and stretch very fast requiring constant tensioning and in a few rides will not do anything but pull the teeth off your sprocket because the pitch length is all stretched out

Also run a straight edge from the front to the back to be sure your sprockets are in a straight Also check to be sure the rear swing arm pivots are tight and the rear sprocket can't wander side to side.

 

My chain started popping off and breaking when a motor mount bolt rattled loose and fell out, letting the engine tilt enough to throw the sprockets out of line. Check that your engine has now shifted or tilted... Also, my 150 Tao Tao uses #40 chain. I tried a 420 chain and it made the most horrible sounds as the sprocket teeth were not catching it.

 

The real important thing for proper chain adjust,ment is to measure from the front rim to the rear rim... and do this on both sides... they have to be about 1/4 on inch the same distance.... otherwise the axle is crooked... leave about 1/2 inch deflexction . the chain... if the chain tensioner is still on there. then make the chain tight.. less than 1/2 inch and the tension about 1/2 way in its full travel... this way the tensioner will tighten is too loose and loosen it if it is tooo tight when rifing... this is the same a s on the other atvs... I am a dealer and have learned how to do this... they stay on when done right... as far as stripping the threads on the adjustors....!!!!! loosen the locking bolts and nuts so they are loose... not loose good enough... as this puts force on the adjustor to pull the axle back.... you can use a 1 inch ratchet strap on one side to help keep the axle straight or to help set it so both sides will be the same distance...

 

What was said above and toss them stupid adjusters in the garbage. To many people rely on them to align things and keep them tight and then don't tighten the axle enough afterwards. I found it much easier and faster getting things right without them

 

adjustors are need to pull the rear axle to the right length... otherwise how do you move the axle back to adjust the chain,..... BUT the adjustor do not lock and hold the rear axle... the mounting bolts for the rear swingarm to the rear axle carrier.. is what has to be tighten and make sure they are tight.... this is the most important thing... MAKE SURE THEY ARE VERY TIGHT...

 

you can pull the axle back by hand or a small pry bar..

 

There are chain alignment tools that can tell you if the rear end out of alignment. Less than $20.

 

well i have a 125cc tao tao and i replaced the hole back rear but the tao tao is for messing around but at my real dads i have a racing one bc we own are own track and the tao tao are meant to be braking down alot we rebuilt are from frame up