Yea just saw the bearing. It was still in the rod and I just never noticed it.

Definitely no marks on the rings but one side looks slightly concave. Would that be the bottom.

 

I think so....
It's hard not having them in my hand.
When compressing the ring into the piston, it should not have to be forced. If it goes into the ring slot and sticks, it's upside down.
Hope that helps.

 

Use your fingernail and drag it across the ring a 1/4" to 1/2" from the end to feel for a dot u can't hardly see. If u feel a dot that is the top, if not if one side is flat and one side is slightly tapered, the tapered side goes up. Lay it on a flat surface and get your eyes parallel with it to best judge. Don't forget arrow towards exhaust!!!!

 

Thanks guys. No dot felt so on the rings. So I put them on flat side up and they were sticking. Flipped them with tapered side up and they fit like they should.

Bad news is got the new top end on and still only getting 70psi.

I noticed when I took the head off the old cylinder last time there was a significant amount of oil on top of the head gasket. Could that be the source of the problem? Ran a straight edge across the head and it didn't "look" warped.

Also, tried to see if it would fire anyway and no luck. Don't think it's getting gas. Took the carb apart and it didn't look bad but cleaned eventing anyway. Could something be keeping me from getting gas and compression?

Lastly, I noticed a little play in the rod. I'm really hoping that's not the problem because that might be the nail in the coffin for this project.

Any three of those things seem like they could be giving me poor compression?

 

What torque setting did u put on the cylinder head nuts should be 10lbs. or 120 inches on inch lb. torque wrench do so evenly. Never took a compression test after just installing, piston and cylinder needs the break-in run time to properly seat which will raise the compression. Sometimes the first start on a rebuild takes a bit of cranking. The rod will have a little side play just not up and down. You might try shooting a small shot of starting fluid in the plug hole, to get the first initial start,I would cut the plastic under the seat that covers the spark plug it gives you a direct shot at the plug. Or you may try taking the rubber boot off the carb and hand choke it with two fingers to try and start it. Don't give up to quickly, we'll try to get you going! The smiles on the kids faces will be worth it! One of the suggestions on these bikes is to have the head milled or shaved .030 thousandths to improve throttle response if you have concerns about the head being warped. On the head be sure to look at the edge of dome where it meets the mating surface for the cylinder,there should be a 1/32 lip about your thumb nail thick, if its not the head has already been shaved.

 

When u opened up the carb did u clean all the jets main, pilot, and air screw,also your choke circuit. That pilot jet opening is only about the size of the point on a stick pin, very easy to get clogged.

 

Thanks for the tips. I did try some starter fluid, and would just get a couple backfires out the exhaust. Which made me think, does not having the exhaust bolted up affect anything? Should it have at least run for a second off the starter fluid?

I have a Moose carb rebuild kit I need to install. We'll see if that helps.

 

Hey guys, I was on a little hiatus with this thing, but trying to get back to it now. So, I installed the rebuild kit, and tested all the jets to be sure they are getting good fuel flow. However, it still doesn't look like fuel is getting to the cylinder.

Assuming everything is good with the carb, is there anything else that could be keeping fuel from getting to the cylinder?

 

Is your compression still only 70 lbs?
I had 90 and it would not fire until I gave it a bit of motor oil down the plug hole to seal it up. Ran ok once I did that to start it though.
Do a compression test without then with oil in the cylinder and post readings.
As for the carb you should be able to make it run by misting gas into the carb with a windex bottle.

 

I would imagine this was figured out, but by appearance, when I saw the silicone gasket maker, my first thought was they bypassed buying new gaskets, including a head gasket that is made for one press.

I would first, buy all new gaskets and see if this works.
If still getting extremely compression, it needs a rebuild, new piston kit, and another new head gasket.