Eton Viper rxl 50m
 

Have you gone through the checks on https://atvconnection.com/forums/1-e...se-stator.html It is a bit long winded, and ohm readings must be taken with a pinch of salt, basically if it should be open circuit and it is, good. If it should have some resistance and it has, good. Anything else, bad.

Those wires coming out of it will still go to a plug, or plugs. Spin the engine on the starter and check for voltage between those wires feeding the ignition coil, if it is an AC CDI this can be high, so set your meter to 500v AC. If plenty of volts go in, and no spark comes out at the spark plug, it is the coil at fault.

I did not get a voltage reading when I spun the engine and was connected to both ignition wires.
I ohm the primary coil and it appeared ok. I didn't get a reading when I checked the resistance of the secondary coil.
The ignition switch does not work so I have it jumped to be on at all times; also the start switch does not seem to work so I jumped it and just just the brake lever to engage the starter

If the bike is AC the ignition switch has two separate circuits, one feeds battery power to the start button, lights, horn, etc. The other circuit is a kill switch, If you join the two circuits together you can blow the fuse and/or the CDI.

I installed a new ignition switch and a new CDI
I checked the voltage coming to the ignition coil and i have voltage but it is very low.
I get a very weak spark
The air gap at the pick-up coil is correct

If you are getting a spark at all, the bike may run. I have known some systems which appear to give the weakest spark, but run fine.

I have replaced the CDI, the ignition coil, and ignition switch but now I do not get any spark at the plug. I disconnected the coil and placed my meter on the two wires going to the coil and it reads 3 VAC I don't get any DC voltage reading.

It has a unit that is for the remote start/stop. I don't have the remote. Could this be stopping me from getting a spark.
with the ignition on when I engage the brake handle the brake lights come on so that much works.

Having no remote could be your problem, as this works an extra kill wire. You could remove the kill wire from the CDI and see if this helps, if the system is AC.

not sure which wire is the kill wire but removed the only wire that goes from the remote to the CDI
still don't have any spark

I'm out of ideas. All I can suggest is double checking those things in the tests that I linked to in my first post.

I am also out of ideas so I ordered new stator. Any good hints of how to remove the flywheel?
Some of the literature show a special tool but I haven't where to purchase one and really don't want to purchase one for use only one time.

I have new installed a new spark plug, new coil and plug wire, new spark plug, new ignition switch and a new stator and still have no spark. I think the only thing left maybe the remote. I don't have the remote
You mentioned removing the kill wire from the CDI but I'm not sure which wire is the kill wire?

Kill wires are usually black/white. It will be the only one going from CDI to kill switches and ignition switch if the set up is AC. There are some that work kill when earthed and others that work kill when not earthed so CDI and ignition switch must be of the right type or it would spark with ignition off and not run with ignition on. The tests in the first post I linked to should narrow down where the fault is. Looks like you have gone for substitution instead. Go through the tests again.

I really appreciate all your help. I finally go it to start and run.
Is there a way to be sure the oil injector pump is working?
After getting to run, I don't want to take a chance on it not getting oil!
I am using a 50:1 oil fuel mixture right now to be sure it is getting some oil it is smoking but I really don't care right now. At least until I am sure it is getting oil

When the fuel tank is nearly empty, add a little more oil to the fuel, run it a while, and disconnect the oil pipe at the carb. If the injection system is working, oil will dribble from the pipe when the engine is running.

Enlighten us all as to what the ignition problem was.

I replaced the ignition switch, CDI, coil and spark plug and still didn't think I was getting a spark. I am used to seeing a very visible spark. I did finally notice what looked like a very faint small spark; I was frustrated and decided to install the plug and see what happened. It started! I am now thinking maybe I didn't need to replace all the parts; it is just a almost not visible spark.
Live and learn

OK, new question, as per the service manual, the oil pump should put out out 3-4 drops of oil per minute. I get none. Can I just run a gas/oil mixture be safe?
I am not sure how to replace the oil pump or where to find one?

I would go for a fuel/oil mix and forget the pump. Suzuki 50s had a pump, but Linmax copies of the same engine used a 32 to 1 fuel/oil mix instead. My guess is you won't be far off at that sort of ratio.