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Its scratched as in a finger nail can feel the scratches in it but its not majorly gouged it doesnt appear with any chunks taken out
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Originally Posted by ArrizX
(Post 3415127)
Its scratched as in a finger nail can feel the scratches in it but its not majorly gouged it doesnt appear with any chunks taken out
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Originally Posted by 250rBanshee
(Post 3415126)
Sorry to intrude in your thread mr jack but I been trying to find you for the longest time lol.
I got an lt80 I been working on for a couple days now I got it for 80 dollars in rough shape but I couldnt pass it up it had no airbox and plastics were rough sat for a long time. I have installed new crank bearings and oem suzuki seals and sealed cases for peace of mind and no air leaks. I also will port the reed and I have new boysen reed. I was going to remove 2 of the rollers from the front clutch and hold on the rear until the little one gets more comfortable riding this thing. I got 14-26 428 sprockets and #40 chain with half links to make it tight now the questions are the following. what is the price for you to bore and port and mill my oem head? I'm installing a chinese top end for now the bore was good on it and will be just to get it running to start it but I'd like a ported top end from you so I'll send you my oem cylinder and head. Also should the clutch with the rollers be completely packed with grease or just enough to keep the rollers in place? I removed the bottom plug of the pipe I will burn it off to clean it. I read that the stock one is a good I'm not interested in upgrading it if difference is minor. Would running a pod vs a airbox be a problem? . I have various machines and clean. My filter after every 2 rides Aldo what else do you recomend doing for more power other than shoes in secondary to 175-180 and better spring? Thank in advance jack. Ps I know I'm working in the floor but I can spread my parts better there lol https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...53a763911a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...5476b9886.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...cb9e57c99.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...0b251bc84.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...143caf1f5.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...1bac9384c.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...a73b1e3f6.jpeg |
Originally Posted by DirtDevil101
(Post 3415165)
If you have a Dremel handy you can smooth those out...you just want to ensure the rollers have a smooth surface to operate as designed and shift properly...
When reassembled what is the deal with taking rollers out. I am using it for the time being till my daughter gets older and some friends and I race minis. Should I pull 2 rollers out like I often see people doing or just leave it factory with all 6? Thanks |
Take a small round bit for your Dremel and rough up all the tracts. I use side to side motions. I prefer them a lil rough as opposed to a fine surface.
Leave all 6 rollers in. |
Okay well maybe it's roughness is just right and I won't mess with it then.
So the surface the belt rides on is not perfect smooth anymore. It's not gouged but you can tell it's had alot of use and the belt as kind wore in in a few spots. It's still smooth and I don't think the belt will catch but it isn't perfectly flat. Should I try and surface that a little with an angle grinder and a fine resin disk or let it be? Kind of odd the fronts are aluminum and the rears are steel. It was easy to clean the rears Thanks |
I could have missed it in the manual I downloaded but what is the best grease for the rollers? Or since grease hardening is a problem would any kind of a dry lube be better?
Also im buying some new parts for the front clutch and the key is almost completely buried under the starter gear. There is in no way sufficient key to mount the movable drive face too it. There is keyway though so do I need to take it off and inspect or can I just hit the starter gear back? |
I'd use the Dremel and go over the tracts. Side to side motions.
Don't grind on the front clutch pieces. You can take a coarse (60) sandpaper and in lil circular motions break the glaze on them. I only use a dab of grease on each roller to help hold them in place during installation. The key only sticks out a smidge. That's where the roller plate notch goes. Once together and tight, it holds fine. You can remove and clean it up (I sand both sides to clean) but it prolly won't stick out much further if any. |
Originally Posted by LT80
(Post 3415241)
I'd use the Dremel and go over the tracts. Side to side motions.
Don't grind on the front clutch pieces. You can take a coarse (60) sandpaper and in lil circular motions break the glaze on them. I only use a dab of grease on each roller to help hold them in place during installation. The key only sticks out a smidge. That's where the roller plate notch goes. Once together and tight, it holds fine. You can remove and clean it up (I sand both sides to clean) but it prolly won't stick out much further if any. On the keyway and key how much is a smidge? Can it be measured? I have less than 1/8 inch of key. I don't even know if there is 3/32 it doesn't look to be enough to engage the variator key hole. I took a picture and it doesn't even show up. I can take a measurement with Calipers if you could compare it with a known good one because I do not find a spec for it in the service manual. |
OK, I know it doesn't seem like much.. It isn't. Put the roller plate on the crankshaft and see if the notch/key grabs. I'm betting you will feel it grab. Like I said, you can pull the starter gear off and clean the key up. It may stick out far enough to satisfy your worries...
If you can measure it.. I'd say it's good. Proper installation and tightening is more important. |
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