Suzuki Lt80 upgrades now problems?
 

Hey guys I wanted to make my son's Suzuki lt80 faster so I added a new exhaust and new sprockets and chain tensioner. It did make a big difference. But now it's too unstable it feels like with any turn it can flip. I need to get the front wider any suggestions?

Couple options:


1) Cheap route - they make widening kits that bolt onto the wheel lugs...I think mine were 2.5" so that gives you 5" total...I'm sure they make other sizes as well. Like $20...


2) More expensive - there are a couple of manufacturers that make wider A-Arms...they may or may not require longer shocks. $400 at CT racing and you need to buy shocks...


3) Very expensive or need fabrication skills - upgrade to a double A-Arm setup...need to find suitable donor (I'm using a '86 LT250R front end), there was/is a 300EX kit out there , but most didn't care for it. I wanted a wider front end (but not too wide), more travel, disk brakes and replaceable ball joints...the early LT250Rs have all this and everything can be had for short money as most want the later year LTs (because they are much wider). This does add weight and the LT250R front end is heavy...but I think the pros outweigh the cons...as of now I'm in it for a bit more than option #2 and that's everything including 10" (4 bolt) wheels with new rubber, 11" shocks, new ball joints and caliper rebuild kits. Not a "for everyone" project, but I'm excited to see it come along...

Thanks for the reply. I'm looking in to them options now.

Is there a after market rear shock? I looked at works shocks but only found front.

Unfortunately I couldn't find a suitable direct replacement. The issue is length and the clevis style bottom as well as spring rates. There are just not a lot of 10.25" eye-to-eye shocks out there period...never mind one with a clevis...or any level of adjustability for a kid's quad.


Length is an issue because ya just can't slap a longer shock in there...at least not without some frame mods as the engine acts as the swing-arm and does not "drop-out" at all (hits the frame). I've read of folks notching the foot rests to get more drop-out as well as cutting & welding in tube where the spine runs vertical behind the engine. I've read of gains in the area of 1" to 1.25"...doesn't sound like much but that gain will open the door to many more shock options. Regardless, you still may find yourself having to swap the bottom eye for a clevis (cut & weld).


There is a Works rear for the LT80, but I've heard mixed reviews and it's not cheap...on there website they still list a part number for it, but at almost $500 I think there are better options. CT racing does sell an extension kit (longer bearing brackets) and a longer rear shock...they will set you back $165 & $390, respectively. The extension kit converts the bottom clevis to round, so I've heard of folks just getting the extension kit and finding a different shock to fit. The issue with the extension kit is that it may place more force on an already (relatively) fragile engine case...so you'd want to look into case supports (aluminum strips welded onto the case).


I did see one called a YES in the UK, but it gave no details. The real issue will be spring rates...these are kid quads and not pit bikes normally ridden by adults...so even if you do find a shock to fit make sure you know what you're buying.


I, because I'm a bit nutty, went down a different path. There is a fully adjustable, re-buildable 10.25 eye-to-eye shock, but it's not a direct fit. It's a Fox Float MXR and it's made for smaller riders (a true rarity!!!). It has round eyes both top & bottom, so I had to modify the bearing carrier and modify the carrier mounting brackets (Like the CT racing bracket, but stock length...I can post pics if you want). I found the shock for $290...and even if it cost you $100 for the fab work you'd still have a far superior rear suspension for less coin (IMHO).


Kinda long winded I know...sorry about that, but no real easy answers for these quads suspension wise.


Best,


Frank

No thanks you have answered a lot of questions for me. If you would post a pic that would be awesome. I would definitely like to see what u have done.

I have ordered the lt80 to 300ex conversion kit. I had most of the parts needed anyway. Just need a set of tires and rims now. I will post some b4 and after pics when I completed it. Should be about 2 weeks

Here are the mods to the axel carrier and brackets...removal of the clevis support is required if staying stock length. I used a plasma cutter & grinder...5 min job (an additional bolt hole also needs to be drilled in the carrier). The bracket mod is a bit more challenging as bolt supports need to be welded on (after bolt holes are drilled)...this is all pre-powdercoat.

Hey maybe you can answer this. I bought some new Reeds for it. Took the carb out then it had a 4 screw plate. Took that off and I could swear there is supposed to have a gasket there wasn't. Am I wrong is there a gasket supposed to be there if u know?

On the back of the reed cage?

Yes...on the back of the reed cage where the cage seats against the engine cases there is a built-in gasket in the reed cage. It does not show as a separate part so if it's not there then I think you need to find a suitable replacement (not a good place for an air leak)...

Right OK thanks

Man I got this lt80 to 300ex conversion kit. This is crazy and they really have no instructions just a few 3d pics. Not going to be the easiest thing to follow.

Yeah...and not sure you're gonna like the result. Saw some pics of the conversion and those are WIDE a-arms! There are a few on here that have done it or know of someone whom has done it so maybe post a new thread looking for assistance...LT80 (Jack), has significant insight to such things, so I'd try to get a hold of him as well.


I saw the kit...LOTS of pieces!!!!!


Good luck!

OK thanks will do.

Post some pics as you go if you can...I'm going to start as well...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...ec2be638dd.jpg

That's all broken down.

Mine is completely disassembled...bare frame...bare engine cases...bare everything! Everything is getting powdercoated...I go a little nutty and do the bolts as well...can't wait to see them complete!

Here is the new rear shock I just got.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...520da8762c.jpg

How long eye-to-eye? is it 10.25"? Also, did you get the spring rate? Looks cool...hope it works out well!!


I'm just getting ready to brace my engine cases...I'll post a pick if it turns out ok :huh:


My PC oven build is almost done as well...have a box-o-parts to coat!!

It is 10.25 and hado the spring rate can't find now better feel that's for sure it is rebuildable. I will see soon.

Where did you find it...at what price...have you run it in the machine...others will want to know...

Here is my case welded up with the supports...be gentle...first time mig welding aluminum on a cheep welder with even a cheaper spool gun ($99). At least I didn't have any burn-through!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...9a74bc5e34.jpg

Haven't worked much on it . Been so busy with work lately. But got the kit on. I also got 1 side on but still need to sand blast and paint them black.

Looking good!

Here are some before & after pics of the LT80's updated braking system PC'd...don't have the pic of when I bought from ebay...but they were in tough shape...

And here is half the case powder coated...

Here is the other side...

Okay I see the pics of your case braces
Can you please explain the welding process????

I have a 110 wire feed mig
I have a 220V Hobart wire feed Mig with gas
I have a 220V arc welder
I have a torch and brazing setup
I have a 220V plasma

NEED TO BRACE MY CASE!!! Impressed with the DIY Dirtdevil!

I was looking at that same orange shock on Ebay
I built my extension plates yesterday
I settled on a POlaris predator 90 rear shock. It is 10.25" eye to eye, no clevis
They are not the best shock in the world but it fits my budget right now na dI have one here at the house I used for the fab.
Once the predator shock is in place, I can now run any 90cc mini rear shock, Eaton, Kasea, etc

I could not find the dimensions of the LT160 rear shock, or I may have gone with one of those to match the front.

That orange shock is rebuild able and you can always swap out springs, check out Kasea parts they have different spring rates avail.

LOL!!! Do you have a spool gun & 100% argon? I MIG'd those cases with a cheap-ass set-up...however I was trained by the best welder in the world (my Uncle)...


I'm not going to take credit for this as Jack Moore (LT80) told me what I'm going to tell you:
1) you need aluminum bar that is 1"x1/4"x at least 2 feet
2) cut that into three pieces...6", 2 3/4" and I think I went 4" on the last but will double check
3) First weld the 2 3/4" piece along the top, at the rear of the case (where the carrier mounts bolt up)
4) Abut the 6" piece to that and run it along where the clutch cover mounts
5) weld the last piece across the hole in the case diagonally (10 to 4ish)


Not sure what your experience is with aluminum, but move fast as case is thinner than the bar...I had a couple close calls on burn-through


Refer to my pics...I think the tell the story better than I do...


I'm curious what the spring rate was on that orange shock...looks like a pit bike shock and they are sprung real heavy...

Hijack/
thanks! I will be researching welding alum with a mig
I have argon yes for my 220V mig
I assume I need aluminum wire HAHAHAHAHA no brainer
Low heat setting, move fast so I don't burn through?

I have not had good luck brazing aluminum repairs on radiators and such over the years, JB weld works better then my work on those
So I have always farmed out any aluminum welds (not in budget for lt80 right now)
I can weld fairly well, have done a good amount. trucks drive around on my welds and tow stuff so they should be decent by now!! HA!
I am willing to give it a shot

That orange shock will be too stiff IMO I think I saw a 1100# load rating on one similar while searching
They do not provide spring psi on their China shocks, some of them have VR coils...would be real nice to know how many psi the springs are!! Scooter, moped, motorcycle, atv...lots of shocks to look at no spring rates provided. No wonder Float, Elka, Fox, etc get all the business
Just a soft med hard would do!
You can always cut the spring or re spring that orange thing, nice for $60!
/hijack, sorry back to his build!

Actually, aluminum will need more heat & wire (aluminum) than a comp steel weld. Hole heat sink thing...I can weld 1/2" steel with one pass on my 110v welder...it struggled with 1/4" aluminum...


I'd suggest you practice a bit...maybe welding that 1/4" bar onto 3/16" plate...hate for you to blow through the case!!!


Oh...and sometimes the aluminum stock will come anodized...your machines could weld through it (mine could not), but that's more heat and more chance for blow-through...I ground that stuff off...just a tip...

I'm sure liking this 300ex conversion geesh man I can see this will never end

Too wide for me...going down different double a-arm path...