Thx. I'll try to work on it tomorrow. I know for fact there is 12v at the plugs, I checked that. Like I said everything worked fine before I replaced the armature plate, and it still works fine if I loosen the spindle nut.

What's the inner pole of the strut ?

 

The "inner pole" of the strut is the milled down portion of the strut assembly that the coil fits over. This raised section is very thin and if any damage to it or the edge of the coil itself can cause
the armature plate not to magnetize enough to allow awd. Plus the metal coil sleeve that slips over the coil assembly must not be damaged and has to be flush with the inner pole. These two areas are where the armature plate rides and where you notice the wear "rings" or ground down marks on the back of the armature plate. OPT

 

Well, I'm at a loss. Pulled everything back off today, checked all the clearances, and didn't see anything damaged, or out of spec. The new armature plate is making contact with both poles because there is already wear marks starting to show. Double checked the clearance between the inner and outer poles, and they are flush.

BUT there is definetly some type of contact issue in there. If I loosen the spindle nut to a point where everything is loose enough that I can slightly shake the hub, it will engage, but slip in and out. I can also torque everything down to proper specs and tap the hub with a hammer while giving it throttle, and the hub will engage. However, it will then slip in and out of engagement as the rpm increases.

I got a manual online and looked through it to see if it gave me any ideas...not really. The only thing that jumped out at me was it made a big deal about the hub seal had to be flush with the hub or it might not allow the AWD to engage. I used a piece of 4x4 to install the seal (to make sure I didn't push it in to far), but I rechecked it anyway. It is flush with the hub. I hate to replace the hub coil because I really don't think that is it, not to mention I'm not sure I could reinstall the new one without screwing something up.

Oh, I didn't jump the brown lead to check for grounding issues because I figured if it engages at all (especially when I tap the hub), then it probably wouldn't be a grounding issue. Am I right, or should I still check it ?

Everything worked fine before I took the hub apart. All I did was replace the seal, and the armature plates. I don't get it.

 

This shouldn't have anything to do with it,but the hub seal needs to be pressed in or you can damage the seal along with warping the metal shield around it. I've replaced seals that guy's have damaged before using blocks of wood and hammers. I'm like you, still seems like a contact issue,either from the seal clearance or binding,bearings not seated in the races tight ?? OPT

 

It was pressed in...just using a press and piece of 4x4, lol. I didn't have a socket that fit the seal correctly. I was afraid of damaging the outer edges, and the 4x4 fit perfect. It doesn't leak, lol. The strut seal I used a press and socket...fit perfect.

I don't see how the bearings could not be seating correctly. Slide them on the spindle and into the race, and torque the spindle nut....how do you screw that up ?

When you press in the hub seal, do you make it flush with the hub, or pressed inside slightly ?

This whole thing really has me very irked. I know what will happen if I take it to our local dealer. They'll just keep throwing parts on it, until it works, and charge me more than the quad is worth because they are to stupid to correctly diagnose the problem the first time.

 

I think you were talking about the strut seal, not the hub seal correct?,a little communication problem on my part! The metal part of the hub seal though should be flush with the hub plus should have the side with the spring facing out toward the coil sleeve. Make sure you hold pressure on the strut assembly against the drive shaft after the bearings,armature plate,hilliard are installed,then tighten the hub nut down at least to 20-25 foot pounds( a little more than I said before) and back off 1/2 to 1 turn(just enough to take pressure off the nut),then torque to 12 foot pounds. This is what I mentioned before and if you still have interference problem(too tight at 12 pounds for the awd to engage without loosening the nut),then I'm at a loss like you are as to what is happening if all the parts have been checked and rechecked like you said and the only thing I can think of is the coil sleeve out too far,but you said it was flush with the inner pole! PLUS are you checking if this system engages dry after you torque it down or filling with hub fluid each time? Can make a difference. Just fishin' again on questions. OPT

 

OPT,

Everything was done as you said above. I used the 4x4 to install the hub seal. Just put the hub on the press, seal on the hub, 4x4 on the seal, and pressed in till it was flush with the hub.

The last few times, I have tested it without fluid, with the hub cap off so I could play with the tension of the spindle nut. With everything buttoned up, and fluid in the hubs, I could not get it to engage at all unless I left the spindle nut loose enough to move the hub. I have waisted over a quart of demand drive fluid already on just one side.

Oh, THANKYOU for the help so far !!!!!!!

 

Best thing I can tell you is to assemble the hub,torque it down,install the fluid and drive it around awhile then recheck the torque on the hub nut. Then see if any changes on the awd operation when you jack up all 4 tires and test awd operation. OPT

 

My front hubs are leaking as well on the inside of both wheels in my 09 Scrambler. I didn't see any comments of anyone suggesting what all is needed parts wise, and what brand, oem/aftermarket. Here's a link to a kit on Amazon that I think I might buy. Any suggestion or comments? Polaris Scrambler front wheel bearings kit 400 / 500 1995 1996 1997 1998 -2009 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K81A7F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IpFmzb02FEKCC

 

Hub seals are worn. Unless the hubs have run completely dry over a period of time you can usually save the bearings and races. Hub seals can be knocked out but has to be pressed in or you can damage the new seal.FRONT WHEEL HUB CLUTCH SEAL Fits POLARIS 3610019 | eBay