polaris trail boss brakes locking up, dragging, sticking, etc.
#1
polaris trail boss brakes locking up, dragging, sticking, etc.
Hey everyone, hope you all are having a great day!
Here's what's going on with my trail boss, hope someone can help me out. When I bought it, the front brakes worked great. The rear caliper was disabled, (line was capped by previous owner). I had it in the shop for something else and thought I'd go ahead and let the guy fix it so the rear brake caliper worked also. Front and back operated by the same hand lever. Got it back and at first seemed fine, but rode a little funny like something was holding it back. My gf told me my brake light was on. I figured the brakes were dragging a bit so another day I got it out to ride it around the yard a bit to see what the problem was. Seems the problem got worse now it really won't go hardly at all and as soon as I let off the throttle it comes to a stop just like if I was applying the brakes. The lever seems ok, feels the same as it always did, seems to be releasing all the way. Here's what I've done so far. When I spin both front wheels I can hear the brakes rubbing. Hard to tell about the rear because of the chain noise when I spin the rear wheels, but I'm pretty sure the rear brakes are rubbing also. I took one of the front calipers off and pushed in the cylinder, put it back on so it wasn't rubbing anymore. When I applied the brake lever, brakes locked up again. I need some help on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dana
Here's what's going on with my trail boss, hope someone can help me out. When I bought it, the front brakes worked great. The rear caliper was disabled, (line was capped by previous owner). I had it in the shop for something else and thought I'd go ahead and let the guy fix it so the rear brake caliper worked also. Front and back operated by the same hand lever. Got it back and at first seemed fine, but rode a little funny like something was holding it back. My gf told me my brake light was on. I figured the brakes were dragging a bit so another day I got it out to ride it around the yard a bit to see what the problem was. Seems the problem got worse now it really won't go hardly at all and as soon as I let off the throttle it comes to a stop just like if I was applying the brakes. The lever seems ok, feels the same as it always did, seems to be releasing all the way. Here's what I've done so far. When I spin both front wheels I can hear the brakes rubbing. Hard to tell about the rear because of the chain noise when I spin the rear wheels, but I'm pretty sure the rear brakes are rubbing also. I took one of the front calipers off and pushed in the cylinder, put it back on so it wasn't rubbing anymore. When I applied the brake lever, brakes locked up again. I need some help on what to try next. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dana
#2
I'm assuming a Trail Boss 325 or 330?? I've had a few sticking ones over the years,some had caliper pistons that were the problem that were dirty,sticking in the caliper bore and not releasing enough or the caliper slides that needed to be greased. Only takes one caliper to cause problems. Also try bleeding the brakes again,then pull the front tires and turn each rotor checking to see if it's warped. There usually will be a little out of roundness,but shouldn't be any thing major. If there is one really tight spot as you go around,the rotor may need to be replaced. You can also use a wire brush on a drill to remove any rust/pitting from rotors. Final thing is to adjust the 5/16" allen screw on the front calipers.This aligns the calipers with the rotor. As you slowly turn the rotor turn the allen screw clockwise to tighten until you feel a slight drag on the rotor,then back off 1/4 turn.Hopefully this will solve the problem. If it doesn't you may need to remove one caliper at a time,remove the pads and caliper slide,grease it up and reinstall it/adjust and check how the brakes work.If all else fails new caliper piston seal seal kits may be needed.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...2004&fveh=5639
#3
#4
Yes one caliper can cause problems,BUT I also forgot originally to mention that a sticking brake master cylinder piston itself could cause problems. This would explain a lot of your problems if it is. On older models I did have a few that did this,causing hydraulic pressure on the brake pads even with the lever released.Could explain why the brake light is on. It has a pressure switch on the brake line "T" block for triggering the light.If pressure is constant,the light would stay on also.Would help to know what year model you have!!
#5
#6
Just bleed the brakes again and if it doesn't help on the sticking problem,then I'd check into the calipers. Caliper pistons could be sticking,if pads weren't replaced and if worn down the piston can go out too far and stick.Could need piston seal kits? Plus caliper slides can do the same thing if they need to be greased.
#7
Brakes are fixed! Not exactly sure what fixed them, but here's what I did. Maybe it can help someone else out one day. Took both front calipers off and pushed them in with a c-clamp. Worked them in and out a few times. Noticed the left caliper wasn't moving while the right caliper was being pushed out the whole way when I pumped the brake lever. All the pressure was going to the right side since the left side was stuck. I put a c-clamp on the right side so that it would stay in and pressure went to the left side. I worked it in and out a few times. Put everything back together and did the same with the rear caliper. When I was done, I had no brakes at all. I figured they just need bled. My neighbor was helping me. He bled the brakes and tapped lightly on the master cylinder with a hammer. Brakes work great with the hand lever now, but nothing with the foot brake. I can't get anything out of that bleeder.
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#8
Sounds like trapped air in the line or one caliper piston may have been sticking. When you pushed the caliper pistons in it actually forces fluid/air back to the master cylinder to where air is vented through the tiny slot in the cap,or just disperses out with the cap off.Plus as you mentioned usually you wont have brake pressure and have to bleed the system,master cylinder has to build pressure up again to force the fluid through the lines. As far as the rear brakes,the small master cylinder has always been a problem especially if it's not used very often.It can bleed down and too small to get enough pressure to force the air out. Easiest way I found was to use a vacuum brake bleeder(about $20 or so) to suck the air from the caliper until the fluid comes out(while keeping the small reservoir filled),then you can do a normal bleed if needed. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
#9