It is a gates g-force all I can get where I live..what would make my primary clutch not come back flush with bolt???

 

Worn bushings,worn clutch guide buttons,grooved clutch spider, can cause the clutch to stick. I've seen bushings so worn that the clutch would wobble and the counter weights would bind up on the clutch shaft not allowing it to return also. Just have it checked out as it takes a clutch puller and a spider tool to take the clutch apart and a bushing installer to replace bushings if needed.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Easier to just get a clutch puller,take it in and let someone rebuild it if necessary as the spider tool costs about as much as as a shops labor charge.

 

Well here I am again plowed snow all day xplorer ran great...let sit like an hour started up now its choking pukin backfiring sounds like its bout to blow up....I just changed piston rings gaskets...don't get it??? Starting to think POLARIS is junk!!! Third one I've had not one of em have lasted more than month..... Wtf??? Won't idle anymore or run smooth ??????

 

Did you have the cylinder bored or just stuck another piston and rings in it? Also did you bleed the head?

 

I had it honed and used standard bore size and I did bleed head...its been running for like two weeks now it ran great all day until I let it sit for like an hour and when I started it sounded like a rattle and wouldn't idle or plain out had two choke it few times to get it up driveway then died and didn't wanna run still turns over not seized but won't run very well...

 

Think you need to check compression now. 2 strokes have to be rebuilt right as the piston to cylinder clearance is critical. Can't just stuff new std rings in one and expect it to last like you can on a lot of 4 strokes. When they start rattling and sound like marbles in a tin can you can pretty well expect piston slap. They can run good for awhile until the piston wears the new rings back down.

 

Suggestion???

 

Depends on how much $$ you want to put in it to where it will last. Tear the top end down,cyl needs to be measured for the next oversize piston that will clean up the bore. Every shop is different on clearances allowed,depends on whether you use a cast or forged piston. Oem cast piston clearance between the base of the piston skirt to the bottom of the cylinder shows .0023-.0037 max clearance from the manual. Any piston clearance larger than that is close to the max allowed(.005) Wiseco used to say on the box to allow .003 clearance,but quit doing that several years ago on the ones I used. I tried to keep a tight clearance between .0015-.002 and ran them long enough to beak the piston in before giving the machines back to the customer. Along with the top end,the bottom end is critical. If there is ANY up and down play on the lower rod bearing on the crank shaft, a new rod kit along with crank bearings and seals must be installed. I used a lot of Hot Rods rod kits. Machine shop or a good dealer would have to bore the cylinder,install the rod kit and true up the crank shaft. PLUS on the 400 once you split the cases,you'll need a new water pump bearing and seals along with all necessary gaskets. Even with you doing the reinstallation,the parts total and machine shop labor could top $550-$600 or more. The 400 is a good engine,but expensive to rebuild it right. Plus there are places like this all over the internet.PolarisATVrepair.com | Local ATV Full Service, Engine Rebuild Services, Engine Rebuild Kits, Clutch Puller, Bearing Kits and more!