Hey all I wrote up a huge story in a different section and it didn't post for some reason so I will be making this one shorter. I bought a 1999 Polaris with some issues. The known problems upon purchase was low compression, hot light on and wouldn't go over 23mph. I tested compression myself and it was 45ish so I rebuilt the top end. One of the compression rings were cracked. After rebuilt I took it out and sure enough in high it topped out at 23-25mph and 30mph downhill. I replaced the thermistor to try and fix the hot light and it still was on so I replaced the LR-60 with a new oem and hot light is now off. I replaced the secondary buttons and had an epi primary clutch rebuild kit done with new oem weights. I replaced fuel filter, air filter, belt, plug, I cleaned the carb, adjusted the etc and shifter linkage. I can feel the torque difference in low and high. Low actually seems normal and high doesn't seem to be getting the rpms. During all this I accidentally cooked the battery on a charger and tried to start it. It wouldn't start. I unplugged the black wire from the cdi and she ran. I plugged it back and it died. I unplugged the black wire from the rpm limiter box and she ran so I think I narrowed it down to the LR-83. With the black wire unplugged, 4x4 and reverse limiter aren't working. A new one is on the way. The bike doesn't seem to be getting the rpms in high. What is the problem? If the LR-83 was toast already when I bought it, could that prevent rpms and power? I've jacked the bike up and tested brakes for being stuck and checked to make sure air box snorkel isn't being plugged up by foam. Any advice is appreciated. Hoping to solve this problem soon. It's raining out today but I plan on checking the plug to check the color. Thanks in advance!

 

UPDATE: I checked the plug and it looked pretty good maybe a little hot. I bought a brand new LR-83 on eBay and I'll find out this weekend if it's the fix. Hopefully someone can chime in before I go broke buying new parts lol.

 

Reverse limiter module shouldn't affect the awd operation as you defeated it by unplugging it. Yes on some models you still have to push the over ride for awd to engage properly in reverse even with the module unplugged but many people haven't replaced them when they shorted. Plus there's several posts on bypassing the over ride that may help.Here's one of them.

"Reverse override mod" __________________________________________________ ________________________________

"Pre 2003 and almost all models that do NOT have the combined override/Speedo function button.

Trace wires from the override button (gray/white & gray/orange) Cut the gray/orange and tape up both ends. Cut the gray/white and tape up the end which goes to the override button. Connect the other end of the gray/white to the red/white (ignition supplied 12v)" This enables full power and awd in reverse with out having to push the override button.

 

I was hoping you would respond. I've already bought the new LR-83 so I'll just have to install it when I get it. As for the low speed in high, can the LR-83 be limiting rpms preventing me from getting over 25mph?

 

The sole purpose of the LR 83 reverse limiter module was for reverse only as a safety device that imo was a failure from the beginning. In reverse the ignition spark was retarded so that you could only back up at about 5-6 mph max.To deliberately go faster and also to allow the mechanical portion of the awd to engage in reverse,you had to push the over ride button that allowed full power. Almost all these limiters have failed and most people didn't replace them plus I gave people the option at the shop whether to just defeat it by unplugging the black wire or order a new one. Most just left them unplugged.Most common symptoms when they failed were dying in reverse or they would only stay running if you held the over ride button in at the same time you shifted into reverse.Yes several times I've had them limit in forward range,but unplugging them simply solved that problem also. Since you've pulled the black wire the limiter should no longer be a factor in the problem you're having,but possible since the over ride button is tied into it,by doing the bypass this may or may not help. You've done a lot to the machine as far as replacing parts,plus I see that you've unplugged the black wire from the cdi.. another problem in itself. When the only way one will run is with the black cdi wire unplugged,then you could have a short either in the ignition switch or wiring,left control switch/wiring or in the internal cdi kill circuit itself could be shorted out. You've addressed the clutches,the engine,but possible that the problem could be ignition related. One old fashioned way of sometimes telling is to use a timing light and while in neutral rev the engine up and see if the light is continuous or intermittent indicating an electrical break down. The best way to check is by the resistance specs in the manual on the stator and coil. No cdi tests as the manual states to replace with a "known good one" plus other electrical tests that are shown. The old 335 wasn't the fasted thing around,about 40mph,but I agree if it's still feels like it's "limiting" or cutting out,the problem is (or could be) somewhere electrical related.Hope some of this helps plus if you need a manual here's one that could help you in that direction rather than throwing anymore parts at it if doing the over ride bypass doesn't help and it's not a clutch problem. Plus possible with a new LR83,this may solve it? DOWNLOAD 1999-2000 Polaris ATV Repair Manual ALL MODELS - Download ...