4x4 not engaging after rebuild
 

Read past posts first and still have a few questions.
I have an 06 800 sportsman, i let water sit a little too long and had it rebuilt. I bought all the parts except the cage that the roller bearings sit in. An atv shop here had the case glass beaded to clean replaced all seals and bearings except the plastic cage. He did notice a tiny crack at the bottom of cage but we did not replace. Now when it had dirty watery oil in it before it engaged all the time as normal a little choppy at times but engaged. Now put the new shiny diff on, 2 new axles, tie rod ends and pads all around. I broke a dang bolt on the mount, but it has 3 and should be fine for now. put 8oz polaris fluid in and noticed a leak at the shaft seal the next day. Looked in my manual and it says 5oz. Noticed the 06 has 2 different years made and I have a Dec 05 model, so i opened the fill plug drained it till level with threads and put cap back in. Sat for 3 days not one drip. Rode it yesterday cuz i didnt think it felt like it was engaging on initial run. I went up some florida sugar sand hills and burried my rear while the fronts wouldnt even engage.

Tried a few times, same I unplugged the diff from thumbswitch and the 4x4 symbol went off then i plugged it back in and it came on again. So that means its getting power.

He checked it only by a screwdriver that was drawn to the magnet.

SO now how do I check it?? I saw in recent post the cage has a major influence, and there was like a dust cover crimped over the round magnet. should that have been changed. Is the metal cage better than plastic? Have a big weekend this weekend and hate only having 2x4 but dont have much time. Any help is appreciated. Sorry Im typing in a hurry, I'm at the Fire station and have to go train.

Probably the cage has cracked more! The major problems were the plastic cage failures and you should have replaced it with the updated aluminum cage plus always replace the armature plate also when you go into the gear case! Polaris offers the aluminum cage,other members have replaced em with John Deere parts,hopefully they can chime in on JD part numbers and you can decide which way to go. OPT

Really JD Parts?? Sound like they would be more economical than Polaris prices. What was the armiture plate?? Big ring that is held in by large snap ring??

Armature plate is the metal ring with tabs on the inside of it! Some of the recent posts on this subject have the part numbers for John Deere parts needed if you research this,plus others should jump in shortly. OPT

OPT thanks alot, You (and other people like you) are what this forum is good for.

I looked up on an exploded parts view and found it.

Any thing to do with voltage going to it???

Also called 2 different JD dealers and apparently its not well known that some parts for the diffs can be used in polaris, But i will be searching on here for past posts as u stated. Cant just rush to buy something especially for $200 and it not be the prob.

Its really going to be tough to spend 3 days this weekend at the Redneck Yacht Club in florida and not have 4x4. I look for the sloppy stuff just to see if I can make it. Oh well it will be fun family time and Im sure I will still get stuck, the winch needs to get used too. ha

Voltage goes to the coil assembly inside the cover plate when you switch the awd on. This pulls back the armature plate unlocking the hilliard(roll cage) allowing it to roll free until the rear tires slip,then the cage bearings ramp up locking the front wheels in.They unlock when the rear tires have traction. Same principle as the old hub activated awd but in a centralized gear case. OPT

Thanks opt guess I'll be spending some Christmas money on me. just frustrating thought about tearing it down to see if parts are in right tomorrow. What is the reason for replacing the armature isn't it just a metal plate? So the metal cage is preferred?

John deer part #s
Roller Kit MIA 10666
Cage kit MIA 10667
Seal kit MIA 10654
armature plate MIA 10656
Thrust bearing and washer MIA 10663
John deer uses same diff in the Gator

Wow thanks Kbirds, Ill call the JD place here tomorrow just to see a cost difference. Thats awesome.

OK OPT another odd question. On the diff there is a breather tube that is attached and going up. There is also small port on the right side off diff the same side the electrical part is in. The guy who rebuilt it stated he filled that little part with silicone. What is that little nipple for?? it did not have a tube attached and I think he may have siliconed inside the top breather port. So in a closed space like this does the lack of air affect the diff? I may take it apart today and see if it makes a if I clean the silicone out. Seems to me the bleeder is important. Any idea??? Thanks

If you look at the parts breakdown its called a set screw,but actually a one way vent and on the inside of the case is a thrust button and thrust plate that lines up with this vent. Its not supposed to be sealed! Look at Cycle Parts Warehouse for a breakdown and you will see. OPT

OK Thanks again, I put the bike on jack stands, pulled the drain plug, and tried to run it like that with plug out to see if the front would engage, nothing. So now spent some time to take everything apart again, took the diff out and opened it. Noticed the thrust plate was not there over the thrust button. Im sure thats important, and also a lot of dark grease, not looking like diff fluid that i put in it. I did put polaris front diff fluid in. So now i will be completely wiping down the whole insides, try to find a thrust plate tomorrow and cross my fingers. If not replace the cage and armature plate as you stated when I get the chance after this weekend :(

Thanks again for all input, maybe you should rethink retirement and start charging per minute tech talk on line. I'll be first to call ya.

Also called John Deere on the roller cage and plate, both pieces for $96
Called Polaris place, both pieces come in kit for about 240. FYI

I've read some of the conversations on these sites and if customers not satisfied (a lot of em) you don't get paid! Not worth the effort,plus I don't have to stock up on online manuals,be on hand at customers every whims,plus I can and have been wrong many times and not have to worry about it! If I had to go through that,I'd rather pick my tools back up:D :burnout: OPT

Yeah guess you're right. of the threads I read about the diff fluid only being Polaris I'm wondering if the grease all inside had something to do with it I just wiped out a ton of grease and the large washer next to arm plate was out of order printed the schematic and will be putting together.

Well got it back together installed it, and buttoned everything up. Only took me 20mins to figure out the easy way to keep all the rollers in place. :)
I want to crank it up now and check it in a bad way but with all the skeeters here in SWFLA it would be suicide to open garage door and momma bear is in bed already anyway. Im 98% confident it will work after cleaning it thoroughly. Exactly 5oz of polaris fluid in it so hopefully she's happy and works for me.

Next project is to see why my small generator is getting too much fuel in the carb and have to feather the fuel on/off valve. :huh:

Needle valve in the carb on the generator probably varnished up/stuck open allowing to much fuel I'd guess? See if it cleans up. OPT

IT'S ALIVE!!!! That's so awesome I'm happy as heck right now. It was too much grease in the diff when he put it together. Also found the little thrust plate I thought was missing.

glad you got it, those front diffs are sensative to type of oil put in, polaris demand drive or demand drive plus is all Ive found that works,