testing hub/AWD coil
 

i just finished reassembling our "new" 2000 sportsman's front end. it has all new bearings/races, seals, rotors, pads, a-arm bushings, ball joints, and armature plates. hubs are filled correctly with the correct oil. i am only getting one side of the front end to engage when i flip the AWD switch.

i have 12.xx volts at each connector under the panel where they connect.

i have 22.9 ohms when i test one, and 23.2 ohms when i test the other.

how do i know if/when the coils are good? what do i test? other than the fact the front tire will pull?

First thing if you've replaced everything including the armature plates,did you torque the hub nuts to 12 pounds only? Were the old armature plates and bearings badly worn and did you check the inner poles of the struts where the coil goes for any wear or roughness? Did you check to see if the new plates would magnetize against the coil sleeves when you were reassembling it, it' a simple check, just turn the key on,have in gear and as you hold the plate about 1/4-3/8 inch from the sleeve hit the awd button,the plate should pull away and stick to the coil sleeve and inner strut pole. If you have voltage to both sides then you might want to retrace your steps on the side that wont lock in for any overlooked damage to the strut itself, hub torque,coil and sleeve,etc. OPT

its something just like that i wanted to know. thanks so much!

the hub nuts were torqued to 12ft/lbs upon assembly

the old armature plates were distorted from being run w/out oil, and one side had a broken cage on the hillard, so the entire clutch assembly was replaced.

the inner poles "seemed" fine, the only thing i noticed was two *slight* grooves worn into the strut sleeves where the seal would ride.

i will do the test you recommended, and see what happens. thank again

ok, mr. opt,

i dissassembeled the side in question, so could get to the arm plate and coil. wheni hit the AWD switch, the coil does magnetize, but will not "pull" the arm plate to it from any distance, but it will hold it to the coil. when i put the hillard up to the arm plate and turn the hillard, i can spin the hillard and arm plate against the coil by hand, with some, but not alot of effort. sound like a bad coil to you?


thank you

It SHOULD pull it out of your hand at 1/8'-1/4'' away! I originally posted a little too far on the distance! Sorry! If it still doesn't have strength to pull the plate away AND the inner strut pole isn't ground down from previous damage,it's possible the coil is too weak. Also take a straight edge across the coil sleeve, should be flush with inner pole or maximum of .001 clearance under the straight edge. If all this checks out and you replace the coil,make sure you replace the coil sleeve also! OPT

Also forgot to mention check for any cracks in the black plastic covering over the coil,if you find any usually means the coil has over heated or has been damaged. OPT

how do i remove the coil from the strut housing?--pound it out like a bearing race?


the hubs were dry and the bearings were pretty discolored, so i assume things got quite warm at some point--would that cause the magnet to become weak?

You have to be careful! Use a small thin bladed flat punch and gently tap at the back of the coil sleeve all around until you can knock it off(don't scar up the strut!) The blue silicone holds it pretty firm,but you can get it off! Then you can remove the old coil and wiring harness. Clean up around the strut and place a small amount of silicone at the back of the new coil and slip it on. What I always did was to lightly heat up the new sleeve (use gloves :) and silicone all around the strut where the sleeve rides along with securing the new coil wires in the top of the channel with silicone,then slip the sleeve in place over the coil,use a bock of wood and lightly tap the sleeve all around on(this pushes the silicone up and forms a seal around the sleeve) PLUS have a straight edge and check at different angles on the sleeve to where you will end up flush with the sleeve and inner pole of the strut. Don't go too far!! Just take your time until they are flush with each other or maximum clearance allowed is .001!!
Not that hard a job,just have to be careful with the new coil and don't damage the coil sleeve! OPT

Forgot something again! :) Make sure the inside of the hub itself is smooth and not rough! This can interfere with engagement and I have replaced a few hubs over the years because of running them dry and damaging them! OPT

well, mr. opt, i did a bit of testing today. i can engage the awd switch with the machine in gear (engine off), and the armature plate will magnetize to the coil, but i can "peel" it off with my fingernails, and pretty easily spin the hillard with the magnet against the coil.

while out today, i stopped by a polaris dealer and spoke w/ a mechanic about my issue. he said, as you did, that with the awd switch engaged, the coil should "pull" the armature plate away from my fingers at 1/4" or so, and hold it to the coil and i shouldnt be able to peel it off, or be able to turn the hillard against the coil.

he said they dont even take the coil off the strut; they replace the whole thing--coil, sleeve, strut; to the tune of $300ish and know it is right.......

i think i am more apt to try and replace the coil. i am a heavy equipment machanic by trade, and usually know what i am doing, and have tools. i'm just not familiar with this system