Just confirming, there should be some side to side play on the front sprocket? Alright awesome thank you, bearing and bolts are ordered, another problem resolved. Now another issue, it was bought with no belt, the primary clutch appears to be alright but will need rebuild down the road. I put on an aftermarket belt and have 2 inch’s of belt deflection, any imput? Supposbly it can be adjusted by shimming secondary clutch but 2 inches seems excessive. Damn this ATV is beginning to nickel and dime me, mostly because of parts missing/poor maintenance. What a shame.

 

There will be side to side play on the sprocket on the shaft. Haven't seen one that didn't. On the belt,the 3211077 oem belt is the best,as are most oem belts that folks have found out. Since you already have an aftermarket one,IF you have 2" of belt deflection,while using a straight edge over the clutches and pulling down on the top part of the belt,then that's too much deflection. Should be no more than 1.5". You can give it a try as is but there are internal shims in the driven clutch that can be remove to snug up the belt a bit. If you're going to that trouble,I'd order 3 new ramp buttons,replace them and be done with the driven clutch.You must leave ONE shim between the clutch sheaths also. Either #8 or 9. Both are different thicknesses. Leave the thinnest one and see if the belt deflection is less than you have now.

 

Alright this beast is coming along. Output shaft bearing used on eBay for 20 bucks is installed and greased. Two new issues though. I bought new brake pads which are now installed but the piston won’t return far enough to go on where rotor. I’ve tried c slap, turning, took brake line off, fluid doesn’t look too bad, what’s the secret? Also what holds the where doctor in place? I see the are threads inside the output shaft but parts diagrams do no show a bolt/ wash or w.e holds it in place. I am missing where brake guard, I’m hoping it’s not built into that?

 

You have to loosen screw #23 in the diagram to allow the piston to move rearward to give you room. Be forewarned...This is a left hand screw and expensive if you break it (24 bucks) Once you have the pads on,caliper mounted to the rotor, screw has to be turned in to move the piston to where the pads touch the rotor. Hold the foot brake down,turn the screw until the bottom of the pedal rises to 1/2 inch above the floor board and stop.Again be careful with the screw as many over the years would be kinda of corroded and easily snapped off. If I'm forgetting anything,look at the manual. That's why they write the blamed things.. Forgot to mention you need to bleed the rear brake line first and use the hand brake to put pressure on the pads against the rotor before you adjust the screw inward for pedal distance.

 

Awesome thanks! I’ll have to adjust later when my new front master cylinder comes In from China. What about the where rotor? Is there anything that holds it stead on the shaft

 

 

Just slides on the shaft.Slide the caliper over it and install the caliper mounting bolts.The rotor just floats between the pads.

 

So I may have gotten lucky/ruined the caliper... lol the adjusting bolt on the rear caliper spins with effort but not coming out, so I’m assuming it’s stripped. So before I rip into it to see if I can repair it or make it worse... By the looks of the diagram 23 threads into 17. I am hoping I can remove 18 and heat it up/easy out it or drill/tap., any input? Also I need the upper shock bushing. By the looks of the diagrams, the only shock bushing I found is for the Fox Gas Shock that has the reservoir 5020657, Would this work for the trailblazer? While looking up PN for chain guide I realized its missing the guard also... what is number 27/28 on the swing arm parts diagram? Some sort of plastic guard? Slowly but surely this is coming together... the more I work on this the more I find missing/broken, the love/hate of restoration... can’t wait to post the end photos

 

27,28 are just decals for chain adjustment and lube. These are the first to go from wear. As far as the shock bushing,if the shock is still half way decent,this place make replacement bushings to fit the 7041448 shock you have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-ATV...1XN-R1&vxp=mtr

 

So back at it.... chinese master cylinder, like new chain guard and guide came in. Few questions/confirms that i cant get answered from my online PDF manual, some pages missing/blurry.

I attempted to rig rear caliper adjuster. Piston threads stripped, i doubt this would work but i retapped to regular since i dont have left taps. Hoping with some nuts on the inside/outside i czn make it work???

Bleed brakes before adjusting AUX brake correct?

carb vent lines, black plastic elbow Ts with bottom vent on float bowl to a check valve, the other one next to the black plastic vents solo correct?

hoping to tske it out for a ride once rear brake/petty stuff sorted ☺

anyone parting out? In Search for.....

outter control panel cover
headlamp with brackst and plug
front bumper shield
Rear brake guard
air box plenum above air filter
in out tie rods
recoil starter cover
choke cable mount nut