Yes bleed brakes first,then adjust pedal brake. Throw away any carb tees. Single drain line on the carb bowl extending past bash plate.Single lines on the carb vents,zip tie to throttle or choke cable and let ends terminate over the tank bracket at the back of the tank.

 

You can look for parts and post what you're looking for at https://atvconnection.com/forums/cla...ale-swap-shop/

 

Thank you for the input, i will definitely check those out. I bolted up master cylinder and ran into my firdt issue. OEM brake hose from junction is different thread and the new one came with a bango. I could tap it so the threads match but wanted input before tapping new master cylinder, as of now two turns then stops. Hoping i had a spare bango adapter from cummins EGR revisions but no luck, also found a universal brakehose that would work but would have to splice in a fitting at the hard line for it to work. Easy cheap is my goal.

also, son of a petcock dripping. Cleaned it out with my fingers crossex but no luck. Dont recall if universals will work since it mounts to tank and was hoping to buy something local for temporary until ebay petcock comes in, any ideas?

other than that, trying tl mount up plastics, shortened a spare chain off my yz250f, slowly getting there.

 

Fuel valves are too cheap to have to mess with one that leaks. Less than 8 bucks.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Fuel-Sw...VY~tju&vxp=mtr

 

So have made much progress from when i have started and getting close to done. Appreciate all the help greatly. New issues arise though as some are solved.

carb - cant get it to idle/cold start. This runs 40:1 syn 91 premix, carb has been rebuilt to factory specs and settings, new gappes plug, new aftermarket coil. Will only cold start with start fluid, runs great at mid/WOT, lacking compression tool sadly but working on it, probally the issue im assuming...

1 cant get the 1/8 inch of freeplay on choke adjust and doesnt seem to changs engine sound/rpm, plunger and spring have been replaced and feels like its moving, i can screw in adjustment in carb all the way and still no play.
2 carb kit came with plastic washer on needle next to E clip that i installed, but didnt have it in previously. Previous owner said needed carb rebuilt. book says not all models for that carb. Should this model use it?How can i tell if it uses it.
3 is there a throttle gap and idle scew spec to start with. Ive read to have throttle just barely seated and clears bore, little play on thumb, air screw 1.5 ccw of course and idle screw all the way out to start. Adjust air scree first then idle of course, is this correct?
4 does running premix change what my start up carb settings i should use?

5 No reverse, since it idles to high and clutch stays engaged so only check with engine off. Pivot arm on gearcase has at most 1/8-1/4 of play. Reverse does not turn secondary clutch, disengaged shifter, no change. H appears to work, secondary cluch spins but pops in N when starting in H, adjusting shifter had no effect keeping it in gear on start.

Hoping H will be fine and stay in H while trail riding. Would like to get an idea why R is inop, shift fork?

6 kill switch/ key does not kill engine. Starts fine, key switch powers up indicicators and start switch works. I had control switch, panel and key switch all removed/unplugged but labeled. Grounds wires/pins appear good and in correct locations according to the pin diagram i found. Havent ohmed run/off switch yet but i if they go bad dont they cause no nstart?

7 brakes might have gotten my hands on a 1/8 female npt to 10x1.25mm adapter to make the Chinese unbranded master cylinder work. The bleed/adjustment is confusing to me in the book. I had to remove the cover to get to what the adjustment bolt screws into because its stripped when replacing pads. I probally should replace at this point but I tapped to reg thread and installed a stud with jam nuts hoping to rig with a jam nuts to work.

Should the part the bolt screws into be pushed in/ almost out? Or does that not make s difference? How does the adjustment rasie or lower pedal heighth since it doesnt or appears to me that it moves how it pivots?

 

 

Yes you need that plastic washer(#5). You can always look at a parts breakdown to see what is needed. Still having to use starting fluid to crank,I'd still check compression. If compression is at least 110 psi or so,then you're probably down to leaking crank seals that need replacing.These can cause hard starting if it can't build up sufficient pressure in the bottom end to shoot the oil,gas,air mixture up the transfer ports for ignition. On these older models have about 1/16-1/8" slack at the throttle lever only. 1.5 turns out on the air screw. Idle adjuster just turn out until you have a smooth idle. Again you may not be able to do that if compression isn't good. Don't get the cart before the horse. Check compression before you go any further even if you have to steal a compression tester...Simple engines but everything has to work right.