Possibly two separate problems, possibly related...The idle seems high on my ranger (never actually tested it to see what its idling at, just sounds high), and I noticed the other night that when its in low, it creeps, and it seems a little difficult to change gears. My research tells me that the creeping/hard shifting is likely due to clutch alignment, but in my head, it also makes sense that the belt being engaged could be a symptom of the idle being too high. I assumed I was going to test the TPS and find it out of adjustment, and its spot on .710, which is what that year/model is supposed to be. 2005 700XP.

I figured I'd check the belt when I had time, but it seemed weird to me because if the belt is dragging, shouldn't that make the idle low?

Any other ideas of things I should check?

Thanks again!

 

Idle should be around 1080-1150 rpms if I remember correctly. What can happen if the one way washers are worn on either side of the one way bearing,a belt can slide over and touch the inner clutch sheath. This just puts constant pressure on the rear clutch and causes creeping. Out of alignment can do the same thing.Pull the clutch cover and look at the belt as it runs in neutral. Look at where the front of the belt rides in the clutch. If the rear clutch is turning,you should be able to stop it with your foot. If you can't then you have a problem.Items#2 and 16 in the break down.

 

Thanks!

May be a stupid question, but how to you test the idle speed?

And I was told the 2005's didnt have the one way bearing..that came later. It does have the spacers though.

Would these two problems be related? I can't see how the clutch/belt issue would be causing the high idle..

 

Yes you are correct.. I looked at the 700 atv clutch instead of the Ranger. High idle can affect engagement if the belt touches the sides of the sheaths.There is no adjustment of throttle slack at the pedal and if the tps is set correctly,spray a little wd 40 around the intake manifold and see if engine idle lowers. Could be as simple as an air leak. If still no change and tps was set at an initial .528 vdc,final adjustment from the throttle body screw at .710 vdc,then that may be something I'd leave to Digital Wrench to try to find the reason for a high idle.

 

Thank you very much again. I will test for air leaks and see if I can find anything - thats definitely something I keep overlooking!

Can you explain what you mean by "tps set at an initial .528 vdc, final adjustment at TB screw .710"?

 

Initial setting on the tps sensor itself is .528 vdc,then you tighten the tps screw. Final setting to .710 vdc is by the D shaped idle screw on the throttle body. To really check it right you have to have the adjuster tool. Comes with or without a cheap meter and a heck of a lot cheaper than the adjuster harness I had from Polaris..POLARIS RZR TPS Adjustment Tool (3 pin triangle)

 

I was having problems with my Ranger 6X6 with 700 EFI motor. Sometime it would not start or barely run and backfire until finally it would not start at all. When that happened I would pull plugs and they were dripping wet with fuel. If I cleaned them good and blew air in spark plug holes to get excess fuel out I could usually get it to start. Checked TPS voltage and it was 0.660 - I see both .660 and .710 Volts listed in different places on the internet but since it was running rich I left it at 0.660 but problem keeps coming back

I removed throttle body and cleaned it good - backed off adjustment screw and set TPS to 0.528 base voltage. Set idle voltage to 0.660 - Motor started and runs great but idle was at 1850 to 1900. Checked cable and there was lots of slack in the throttle cable but backed it off even further - no change in idle speed.

I know it is not the proper way to do it but I adjusted the throttle body stop screw out until I got an idle around 1150 - 1200 - runs great now and no starting problems. Is there something I am missing to get the correct idle without adjusting the stop screw ? Will adjusting the throttle body stop screw to get correct idle cause other problems even though the base voltage is correctly set to 0.528 with throttle body fully closed ?

thanks
Gary

 

Look at the "sticky" post on 700/800 efi problems above this section. Sensors weren't usually the problem,but the connectors and wiring were.Most common problem on idling was a faulty t-bap connector or wiring. You can visually checked for any bare wires or soft wires that may have melted internally. From the sticky post a member started offering better harness repair kits than what Polaris supplied to me.I'd set the tps back to stock setting,Adjust the throttle slack per the manual,DON'T use the throttle cable for idle or you can really have problems.https://otbpowersports.com/products/

 

Thanks for the quick reply - I will confirm the throttle slack adjustment per manual but I did confirm it is slack at idle so shouldnt be causing the high idle as the throttle boy is closed tight against the stop screw. I will also check the t-bap wiring and repair if required or if wiring is good try replacing the t-bap as the next step I guess.

I dont have a heated location to work on it. In the meantime, till I sort out the underlying problem, can it do any harm to run it with the TPS adjusted to get the correct idle speed knowing that the base voltage was set to 0.528 with throttle body fully closed. I am only using it a couple times a week to bring a load of firewood from my storage area to the house - 20 minutes or so run time when I do use it.

 

Shouldn't be a problem until you're able to track down the problem area. Like the manual says 80% of efi problems are wiring or connector related not so much the sensors themselves. I only replaced sensors,mainly tps sensors that people had over clocked the internal spring and screwed things up.Sometimes even complete throttle body assemblies had to be replaced. Have it at a base .528 vdc setting like you mentioned. Shouldn't hurt anything if you have to alter the final setting enough to where it will at least idle.