1996 magnum 425 gear selector
 

does anyone out there know the difference between a 1341183 or 1341182...1180....1176....1179 gear selectors...they look similar and mounting looks similar wiring looks similar...

however i think the 1341183 is the one for me??? diferences???

thanks again, Mitch

1183 is your model. Part numbers can change on these mainly if they fit a different atv such as the Sportsman,Xplorer,etc.Mounting was pretty much the same,but some difference is that linkage location was on top of the shift levers,some on bottom to fit gear case belcranks that were mounted facing out or some that were facing in. Internal parts were basically the same but a lot of parts are becoming nla. Same for the whole assemblies,most are nla unless you stumble on a nos shift assembly that people want an arm and leg for.

thanks OPT for the lightning response..going to get a gear select and thought if wiring and linkage hookups and mounts were similar could work with another modwl...save a few greenbacks ya know....mitch in wisconsin

1341182 looks just like the 1183...do you know of anyone who might be able to verify this?? thanks again for your considerations

First image is the 1182 from a 96 Xplorer 400,second one is your 1183. Linkage arrangement was the basic difference. Think I got em backwards,but you can see :)

thanks again man..the diagrams show the linkage and they might be different in design..i guess if icould really find a bargain on the other models i could take a chance..just use my existing linkage since thats good..the diagrams dont show the o-rings but they would be the same i'm sure...wish my clymer manual had the linkage pt.#s but it doesnt..

what my problem,which i should have stated in the first post is,
there is alot of play and slop in the shifter now..and i have to play around with it a bit to get it in the gears..no force needed just a little tender touch...the internal switch isnt even engaging for the NEUTRAL, REVERSE lights to engage and the shift rod is looser on the travel....lifes funny sometimes you can buy a whole carb for $30 but one electric cable can run $100
maybe i just need to tighten up the housing???either way I'll have to heat the garage up and investigate..its my plow wheeler and it wants to snow every other day if i'm down i'll just have to shovel.. thanks again

Linkage ends are still available if worn. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/po...um-4x4-s968144 Switches can wear or push back a little since they're rubber mounted and make intermittent contact. Problem most people had like you mentioned,if you push a little more forward on the shifter it would hit the switch and awd light would come on. You can just bypass the switch by jumping the gray/white switch wire on the terminal board to the red/white terminal section and see if the awd button lights up and you have awd in low and high range.Another way I believe was to tie the gray/white wire to the sold gray wire in the switch harness. This was another way to allow power to the awd light,then to the hub coils.

For what it's worth, I've seen different part number for different shifters on which the only difference was the cover on the top of the handle. One was plain (an older style), one was stamped with the gear shift pattern (a newer style) - they were functionally the same.

Also, on the wiring bypass, if you go straight to the solid gray wire, you will have AWD all the time as you will bypass the AWD switch. If you're going to bypass it, I'd jumper the Red/White to the Gray/White circuit. (This will give you the option of having AWD in any gear (even reverse), but you'll need to press the AWD switch still.)