Well, I finally have 20 hours on our 2011 Sportsman 500 HO Touring ATV and I was wondering if anyone has a good cross reference part number for a Wix Oil Filter for it? Also, I've read where a lot of folks are using 0w-40 Mobil One Synthetic Oil in these things, but the owners manual references the use of 2w-50 synthetic only; that being said, should I stick to the 2w-50 it calls for or is 0w-40 ok?

 

Number 3084963 Polaris crosses to 51358 Wix oil filter. 0w40 Mobil1 is ok to use instead of Ps4Plus 2w50 Polaris oil. AFTER the first oil change I would change oil and filter every 50 hrs!!. At 100 hrs I would change the other fluids,NOT necessary to change ALL the fluids as some dealers would want you to do at the first 20-25hrs!! Just helps to lines their pockets more so that they can charge for a 'full' service instead of just the "initial" oil and filter change.Also check and clean prefilter and air filter if needed,plus generally look over machine for torn cv boots,etc. The EXCEPTION I would make if its under rough use(And after the initial oil and filter change at 20 hrs) is to change the front gear case fluid every 50 hrs as well as the oil and filter and then change the transmission fluid at 100 hrs. The newer gear cases have all the "awd guts" in em and if I owned one the fluid would be changed EVERY 50 hrs,if not sooner!! BUT that's just my opinion! OPT

 

There is lots of aftermarket oil filter for the Fuji 500 motor, read through these. Make a list of common numbers we need

Other Oil filers you can use are.
Napa Oil Filter #1358
STP SMO17
K&N 303
Wix- 51358
HIFLO Filter- HF 303
CARQUEST #85358
Purolator Pure One PL14612
Wal-Mart SuperTech ST6607
Bosch 3300
Mobil M1-108
Fram PH6607A

I use a Fram PH6607A filter with Amsoil full Snythetic 0w-40. Polaris ATV oil was always, 0w-40, I think they came out with this odd ball "one of a kind" 2w-50 weight so people think they have to buy Polaris oil only.

Here is the oil they had ,and the Fuji 500 motor has never changed so I cant see why 0w-40 is no good now. Lots of 10,000 mile 500s out there that only seen 0w-40 in there lives.

 

Thanks guy, great info, as usual.

 

If it's still under warranty I'd use Polaris oil. That way if something happens to the engine they can't blame you.

 

Thanks for the advise, but to blame any mechanical engine failure on the owner operator using the wrong engine oil, they would have to prove in a court of law, that 0w40 Mobil1 Full Synthetic Blend does not provide the same level of protection that their 2w-50 Secret Squirrel Full Synthetic Blend does in the climate that I live and operate my ATV. As a retired aircraft mechanic, not only do I know they can't do that, I have plenty of time on my hands if they chose to try.

While I don't go looking for trouble, I love to see companies or dealers, that try to break it off in the little guy, get it handed to them in court or by the Better Business Bureau. In fact, it might would have a negative impact on their business, if word got out to the general public, that they play word games with their line of lubricants, in an attempt to create the belief that 'only' their products can be used or mechanical failures, not covered by warranty, will surely ensue.

As a man who made his living turning wrenches, I perform and document all maintenance on everything I own with an engine bolted to it; if a tool touches it, it gets documented, regardless of the reason of the maintenance.

 

if that were true(not saying it's not as i couldn't swear to it) then they would have to change the oil and service the bike as well to be covered under warranty. just a thought.

 

This issue was brought up years ago and the courts(at least in Texas) ruled that in no way would it void an individuals warranty IF he or she performed their own maintenance and did NOT have to use the dealer recommended products AS LONG as the products used were the equivalent of the dealers items!!
This basically applies to auto maintenance,BUT has tricked down to basically ALL serviceable vehicles or equipment! BUT detailed records and receipts are highly advisable in case you have a problem. In fact if the courts had not ruled in favor of individuals rights,THEN you wouldn't be able to purchase oil.filters,brake pads,suspension parts,etc and would be at the mercy of manufacturers and dealers becoming more of a MONOPOLY than they already are! In shorter terms: DON'T MESS WITH TEXAS and the right of the individuals choice! If in fact if this was NOT the case,then an individual could not even purchase products over the counter at all. Even Polaris owners manual "recommends" their oil,BUT states, If a different oil is used,MORE frequent oil changes may be necessary! BULL HOCKEY!! OPT

 

Just got finished with the first oil and filter change and I have to say, it's like Polaris has been building aircraft for decades, as everything was in there pretty tight, with everything bolted right in the way of where you needed to be. I found it easier to drain the oil tank and then just unbolt it from the frame so I could get to the lines and inlet screen easier.

 

If you check most of the posts on oil change,MOST people don't take the tank fitting off! I only did if I knew machines weren't maintained well OR if I replaced bad cams or engine over hauls. The screen will almost always be clean and after I did a whole bunch of them,I just drained the oil and filter! Also the only time to clamp off the tank vent line is if you take off the fitting! May not sound "KOSHER" but when I change oil and filter, I would drain the tank,leave the old filter on and RUN engine for only 10 seconds which would drain the sump through the oil tank. Then I would remove the old filter and replace along with the two quarts of oil. I would run for several minutes,then check oil level with dipstick all the way in. If you don't run long enough,it will show a little over the full level. Over the years I've done countless 500 engines like this and never encountered any problems! The instructions to clean the screen EVERY TIME is just Polaris covering their azzzz. Just my old opinion again! OPT