This is my first post after doing some searching. The machine won't start. The tank has gas, battery is fully charged, air filter is good, gas is on and it has spark. it has been sitting for a couple months without being started. I tried pull starting and using the electirc start. The motor does turn over and almost wants to start with a shot of ether. I am assuming it is a carburator issue. My question is, is there an easy was to clean the carb with it still on the machine. Reason being my mechanical skills are beginner. Thanks for any help

 

Welcome to the forum! NO,there is no easy way to clean a carb on the machine once it's been sitting and usually the problem is gas in the carb bowl gels causing float needles to stick,jets to get clogged up,etc. Just pull the carb,replace the needle and seat(needle valve assembly) DON'T bother try to clean one,it's not worth having to go back in the carb!Plus clean the pilot and main jet. A jet cleaner tool (available from most motorcycle outlets) or an air compressor with a blow gun works wonders with a good spray carb cleaner with a plastic nozzle that can clean the small jets and carb bowl. Plus replace the float bowl gasket to help stop any leaks. This carb is the BST40 with the float assembly and float lever built together,plus the float is what holds the needle valve in place. It's not necessary to remove the throttle cable and choke cable. Just turn enough to where you can remove the float bowl. You can after the bottom is assembled remove the top cap,spring and pull the slide out to clean it and the slide needle if varnished up,DON'T get the carb cleaner on the rubber slide diaphragm. After the carb is clean use MARINE STABIL in the fuel and you won't have to do this again!
Also invest in a cheap battery tender if you don't have one,well worth the small price. Just look up Pure Polaris Parts Catalog,find your model atv and carb,will show you the carb breakdown so you can be familiar with it. Another place is Cycle Parts Warehouse,will show the breakdown along with the prices. OPT

 

Thanks for the reply. I am going to try to remove the carb today any hints on removing it? The battery tender works great i use them on my sled and mower batterries thru the winter and I have been using either startronor the marine stabil in all my gas motors. You wouldnt happen to have a write up or sticky on how to do a coolant change. Thanks again for the help

 

Removal is pretty cut and dry! Remove the carb brace to the frame, loosen clamp to the air box at the rear of the carb and the air box itself (just to move out of the way) You may have to remove the small crank case breather connection ,or just leave the box leaning over to the left. Loosen the carb clamp at the intake manifold and wiggle carb out enough to where you can turn it to get to the carb bowl screws.
On coolant change you have a drain at the bottom of the radiator,let it get warm (to open the engine thermostat) open radiator drain(HOT COOLANT and have a big pan) crank it up for a couple minutes after radiator is almost through draining,this will force out most of the coolant. Some people just remove the bottom radiator hose and do this. The main thing is purging ALL air from the radiator when coolant is installed! 2001 models WILL take some patience because of the hose kinks and routing! Pour in enough 50/50 coolant(any major brand will do (Zerex, Prestone, etc) to fill the radiator,leave the cap off,crank engine and top off slowly as radiator fill neck level goes down,when fan kicks on remaining air should be purged. Top off coolant,replace cap and check/fill coolant bottle. run and make sure hot light doesn't come on! If it does,let it cool down,remove cap and run until fan cycles a couple times,then top off coolant and replace the radiator cap! OPT

 

Took the carb out this morning, cleaned and replaced dirty parts. Put it all back together, adjusted the choke and after a bunch of pulls and trys with the electric start it started right up. Drove it around for a while and runs great. This weekend i will tackle the coolant change. I figured if I cant ride snowmoblies might as well get the 4wheeler running. Thanks again for the help. It was much appreciated

 

Get a manual and you can tackle harder jobs if needed Good luck OPT

 

One more question. Do i need to use polaris oil and a polaris oil filter or is there a napa/carquest filter that will work. Last time i changed the oil I used an oil change kit from polaris. Thanks again

 

there are a bunch of post on other filters and oil to use instead of polaris. you should be able to doa search and come up w/ a few. you can use mobil 1 oil as long as you keep the numbers (0-40) the same and stay w/ synth. oil. don't know the filter numbers to interchange.

 

wix # 51358

 

Yup. That was the wix# I came up with in my filter search. Thanks for all the info.