They just want to sell you a strut assembly!Doesn't take that long to change it out if you've done it before! A lot of so called techs just take the easy way out or never attempted this before! Sleeve is $28,coil assembly is $61,total $89 at Cycle Parts Warehouse! Shouldn't take you more than an hour to an hour and a half. Compare $89 and your labor to $300! Would actually take more time to replace the strut! The only thing again that I emphasize is that the strut must NOT be damaged on the inner pole(ground down),I've replaced strut assemblies because of this! Or the inside of the hub must not be rough and grooved or you could still have problems after coil replacement! If in any doubt,down load a manual from Partshark.com! OPT

 

I am having the same issue with my 2001 Scrambler. In reading through this thread, I noticed mention of the hub nut being tightened to 12 lbs. Is that something that is across the board for all models, or is there different torque specs for the Scramblers? The manual that I got along with my ride says to tighten to 14 lbs.

 

If it's a Clymer or Haynes manual, at times they don't get the torque specs right. All the newer systems(1997 and up) that have the castle nut and cotter pin have been 144 inch pounds (12 foot pounds) The older(1987-1996) awd systems with just flex nuts had a "rolling" torque that never adjusted just right. OPT

 

Mr. OPT, I am having a terrible time at fixing my AWD. I have replaced the electromagnetic coil, new axle and CV joint ( this part was missing when I got the ATV), and have assembled, disassembled, and reassembled the right front hub assembly about 6 times. I have quadruple checked the spacing of the outer pole and inner pole. All surfaces are nicely smooth with no wear marks or grooves. I have 12 volts at the connection point for the coil. It does seem to be magnetizing (if that's a word), because the armature plate will stick, but it is not hard to pull it off with my fingers. The plate is new as well. Short of taking my machine to the dealership and laying out my arm, leg, and first born child, is there anything else I should look for? Also, maybe this could be a topic for a different thread, but how exactly does the Hilliard clutch system work? Maybe understanding this will help me fix my problem. And, in response to your torque spec reply, my manual is a Polaris manual.

 

This system works by pulling the armature plate away from the hilliard assembly(when in awd mode and a constant 12 volts is supplied to the coil) allowing the hilliard to "float" in the hub at the same speed of the drive shaft and as the rear wheels slip it sends a little extra spin on the front drive shaft and the hilliard then cams up with the roller bearings and locks the hub into the drive shaft since the hilliard is on the splines of the drive shaft. After the rear wheels regain traction the hillard then unlocks. Best way I can explain it! IF there is ANY wear on the inner pole of the strut(any grind marks from the armature plate) then you could have problems even with a new coil and sleeve! Also if the coil sleeve is not flush all the way around,too far in or too far out it may not operate properly.
Also if any scoring in the hub itself may hinder locking in of the awd system! That's why I advised everyone that has done this to examine ever part of the strut and hilliard,hubs, carefully!!. Also the the way I always torqued the hub was to go OVER the limit to about 15-20 pounds(to seat the bearings etc),backing off the nut and then torquing to 12 pounds. If your factory manual says 15 pounds (On the Scrambler I'm assuming?),this is not enough difference to stop the awd from operating properly,but try 12 pounds and see if it helps. OPT

 

Thanks so much Mr.OPT! That cleared up a lot of things for me.

 

mr. opt,

i am confused as to what the "inner pole of the strut" is. --and what touches it to cause wear

 

The "inner pole" of the strut is the thin milled "sleeve" on the strut that the coil goes over and extends out a little past the coil assembly! This part of the strut aligns with the coil sleeve when it is installed!. This is the area that can get damaged on the strut! This along with the coil sleeve are the two areas the armature plate pull to. Just look at the back of your old plate,you will see two wear marks where the plate rides.This area must not be damaged(must be thin and not ground down) or the strut has to be replaced ! OPT

 

update:

i would like to thank mr. opt for all his help on this issue. i replaced the left side coil, and sleeve that goes over the top of it this weekend. i put it all back together, and the 4x4 works great now. i have the real polaris service manual for the machine, and even it was a bit unclear as to how to remove the coil.

thanks again, mr. opt, i owe you a beer!

 

I'll pm my address, want a CASE of Shiner Bock! Only beer I like and I really don't like beer that much! Drank WAY more beer before I turned 21 than anytime after! OPT