Hi to all. I have a 2007 hawkeye 2x4 with the dreaded " Internal Clutch Bearing Syndrome"(ICBS). I've always maintained my own stuff, mainly cause I can't afford to have it done. Anyway, I thought it looked like I could "separate" the rear from the front(like a tractor) since the lower frame appears to be made to do just that. I've got all the plastic out of the way, disconnected all the wire,linkages, etc,, removed the shocks and their brackets,,,,,,on and on. I'm stumped as to how to get the tranny loose from the engine without pulling it all out together. Surely that's not needed,,,,,,is it? I'd appreciate any and all help. I'm gettin too old for this stuff I think. I probably won't be able to find half of the stuff I took off, if I ever get to put it all back together. I haven't bought a manual because I'm not gonna keep this thing after I get it fixed. I bought it because it is easier to steer than some. I have an old KawBayou300 2x4 with the lock/unlock diff, and it steers like it has power steering compared to most others. Wish they still made those. Thanks in advance, hope to be able to contribute something worthwhile in the future. Great website.

 

Welcome to the forum! Look at Pure Polaris Parts Catalog for the Hawkeye under "engine mounting" and you can see after you pull the clutch cover, and front clutch there are nine bolts to separate the engine from the transmission,then look under "engine clutch" and you can see how to disassemble it from the engine. OPT

 

Thanks for the reply. So, do you pull the engine/Trans all together?
I have the bike stripped down to the frame. I previously pulled the drive belt/clutch cover to check the small pilot bearing in the cover(it's ok).
I removed the socket heads holding the trans to the engine. There are line-up dowels, so the trans has to be pulled latterally(sp),which can't be done unless you pull the engine/trans together. At least that's the way it looks to me. So I guess I'll pull engine and all.? Might as well, there's nothing else to take off

 

It's best to pull it as an assembly because it's hard to try to line up back in the frame separately. The "engine mounting" area I gave you to look at is if you or any one else should want to separate the engine from the transmission for whatever reason along with getting to the "engine clutch"to repair it. OPT

 

It's best to pull it as an assembly [/quote]

Thanks again opt. Ya, I finally see that is the way to do it. It's been a while since I "taxed" my old brain in this way, but I'll get it done with help from folks like you. Much appreciated. Do you have any thoughts on a replacement bearing? Aftermarket vs. Polaris? I'm not looking for cheaper, but for better. No reason for this type failure other than putting in cheaper parts. This "bike" (can't get used to calling them a bike) has not been abused. Always kept inside, never been in high water or mud. I am hesitant to trust polaris for a bearing again.

Thanks again.

 

Just look at the universal number on the bearing! Example: 3204,6005,etc. Should be able to get a good SKF or other quality bearings at any auto store. Polaris products use American, Japanese (which are good), Chinese,Russian(bad quality) in different applications. Just depends on the atv. OPT

 

Polaris products use American, Japanese (which are good), Chinese,Russian(bad quality) in different applications. Just depends on the atv. OPT[/quote]

Well, I got it apart. The bearing is fine. The one way is shot. I know they can fall apart when removing the assembly, but the cages are bent and chewed up something awful. I remember when I first got the machine, it would kick back when cranking as if the timing was too advanced, or the mixture was too lean. When it did, it made a very loud WHACK! Probably what damaged the "one way".
I later figured out that if you gave it full choke(or enrichment)while cranking, it didn't kick back. It will start even in cold weather without the choke, so initially, I didn't apply it. I wonder if there is an aftermarket?piece that is just as good(or better), at a better price.? Have any ideas?
Thanks again opt. Gary

 

Highly doubt any after market parts on this,but you can do a google search or check other forums. I've been out of this awhile now and can't keep up with all after market stuff OPT

 

That, and a whole lot more I can't keep up with anymore :0 I found the part on one of the "cheapcycle" parts site. $135. The dealer near here gave me the same price. I ordered it, don't know if that's a good price or not. I need to get this thing back together before I forget what I did with all the nuts,bolts, and them blasted plastic rivets that fly all over the place when you pop'em out. I'll let you know how it all turns out.
How wouldl you like to buy a very pampered hawkeye?

 

The parts for the internal clutch are ridiculous at Cycle Parts Warehouse and Cheap Cycle Parts too! Engine either made by Aeon or Eton,can't remember? NO,I don't need a Hawkeye,thanx anyway
After working on em for almost 23 years I have no desire to own any of em!! Just something else I'd have to maintain! I only want to change the oil and filter in my two autos and keep my yard mowed! Best way I can explain this is if you had to eat steak three times a day for 23 years you'd get tired of it no matter how good the cut of meat was Good luck with the Hawkeye! OPT