Been lurking and looking for a while now, some good stuff here, so I figured to ask now that I have a quandry.

04 700 carbed sportsman.

It gets regualr Maint. spring and fall, proper lube and filters etc.

It has the cold weather idle/cold blooded issue they all did.
The other day it started acting like it dropped a cylinder.
No grunt at all, had to drag the thing to the shop with a tractor.

Pulled plugs, bith fouled, one plug wire appeared to have been blasted off by hitting snow drifts.

New plugs went in, miss continued, double checked wires. All good.

Asked around and was advised about the intake boot cracking/ leak.
Nope.

Double checked ignition(Thanks OPT!). Jap unit, not the Infamous Ducati unit, good spark, both sides.

Checked compression fearing a munched ring or scored cylinder.
Nope. 148 and 146.

So I feared the worst. Camosis, and I don't have time for that.
Button things back up to drop it off at the dealer, and the stupid thing starts and idles like new with no miss.

Under a load and above mid range it starts acting up again though.
Starts cutting out and acting like it's missing again.
Back to air leak and carb.

Got on the horn and ordered a carb kit, crankcase breather(Thanks OPT!) update, and a new intake boot.

Now I gotta finish pulling the carb, and there is my quandry...
CVT Carb. I have never disconnected one of the things.
Plenty of Flat slide and round barrel old school Mikunis and Keihn's,
but never a CVT, and the throttle cable connection, as well as the choke cable have me scratching my head. It's the simple stuff that usually ends up biting me in the keester, so while I'm waiting I might as well get a clue before diving in blind.

Is there a tuitorial on the things anyone is aware of online?
All I am finding are those on the smaller 500's with the round barrel Mikunis.

If one of you guys has other insight, to tracking down whatever gremlin got into the thing, I'd appreciate the thoughts as well.

Thanks!
Dingeryote

 

Not that much to pulling a cv carb versus any other carb. You don't even have to unhook the throttle cable and choke cable.Just remove the vacuum and fuel lines. Just pull it out enough to where you can turn the carb sideways to get the carb bowl off,then you can rebuild the main wear parts.An air blower through the openings/air jets helps. You can remove the top cap,spring, then remove the slide and you can replace the slide needle if it's in the kit you get.Plus you can see if the choke plunger is operating properly through the top of the carb.The slide only goes in one way and the tab on the diaphragm lines up with the slot in the carb body. Cold weather is hard on some 700s as far as starting and running. You can lower the clip on the slide needle one position to richen it up to see if it helps. Plus make sure the tank vent line isn't kinked and is open. Just remove the tank cap and blow through the line. You should be able to hear the air in the tank. Here's a general breakdown of the carb. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
If after rebuilding the carb,you still have a problem on running,you may need to check the fuel pump out,plus sometimes the 3 way fuel valves have had problems and I've had to replace those,mainly from them stopping up from trash/ethanol fuel damage. OPT

 

Thanks!!

I'm looking to get the carb out of there, rather than dinking around in the frame with little parts, and bieng able to toss it in the sonic tank for a good scrubbing.
Kinda old school, but I don't trust the spray cleaners to do too much.

Good idea on the tank vent and three way valve.
I have never even used the stupid thing and forgot about it.

Probably should swap out the fuel filter now that I think about it.
I'm not sure if I have ever replaced the thing...

Thanks much!
Dingeryote

 

Keep us updated as to what the problem is if you find it. If you just want to remove the choke and throttle cable,just unscrew the choke cable,remove the plate on the side of the carb and remove the small cable locking piece(DON'T loose this) and just remove the cable. Ultra Sonic cleaning is a lot better,can get into the crevices better than the caustic dips,plus won't hurt the plastic,rubber seals on the butterfly shaft. OPT

 

Thanks!!!

Yeah, itty bitty pieces that want to escape under the bench and hide in all the grease and mung.
That's what I figured.

Big ziplock bag, carb goes inside for removal of the cable..

I'll probably get at it tomorrow.
Thanks for the tip! I figured there was a potential escapee in there somewhere.

I'll holler back once I get things scrubbed up and back together. Or maybe earlier if I hit a wall LOL!!

Thanks again!
Dinger

 

OPT,

Back again. Had to get busy on a couple tractors, and some other things, and never got to the 700.

The throttle cable on this thing is attached to what appears to be a pin of some sort, in the radius arm. It's not backing out, and is NOT the ball in a slot set up I am framilliar with. There's probably a simple trick to this I am overlooking, and none of the exploded drawing I can find illustrate the method of attachment.

Is there a pic of the thing anywhere to be found?
If I could see it, I could figure it out, but in the housing I'm blind.

 

A good picture is in the manual,but the brass locking pin is slotted for the cable. It just pulls out from the cable guide pulley or "radius arm" as you call it and the cable is free. You push the throttle cable ball end past the pin and just pull the slotted pin out. OPT

 

DOH!!!!!!!!!!

I was treating it like a cable end in a round barrel carb slide.
Thanks!!

I don't have a proper shop manual yet.
Looks like I gotta get one.

Thanks man!!

I'll holler when I get things buttoned back up.
It's looking like 100% carb problem so far, as the intake wasn't split or cracked at all. I'm almost wondering if there isn't a couple other contributors I havn't found yet.

Thanks again!