I also have a 95 polaris 400 im working on right now. The rope wouldnt recoil so i pulled the housing and saw that the metal deal broke off (looks kind of like a wheel weight). The rope now comes out and recoils smoothly and freely but without that metal piece I would think i need to get a new recoil housing?

Another issue related to the starting is the electric start. The problem was, with the housing the starter drive wouldnt engage with the flywheel, it would just freely spin behind the flywheel. But now that i have the housing off i sprayed the drive a bit and sometimes it engages and disenges itself (starting the quad) However it doesnt do this all the time. So do i need just a new starter drive or a new starter to?.....and how would i go about taking the starter off is it just the two bolts in the housing then two bolts on the starter from the clutch side?

And the other issue is the throttle sticking. I already got the throttle/oil line hilux deal but im just undure what i do when i get to the oil pump. Or is just a simple take the old one out and slide the new one in?

O yes and the last issue (i think) is tere is no resistance in the rear brake pedal. Theres still some meat on the break pads is there a way to adjust the breaks?

 

Her's the recoil start breakdown.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Here's a cheap place on starters and gear shafts(bendix) DB Electrical - Polaris The starter has two bolts inside the recoil housing and a hard to get to bracket behind the clutch backing plate.Easier to either stand on it's tail end to get to the last bolt on the bracket(if you can) or just take the clutches and backing plate off.
Pull the plate off the oil pump and see if the pump is ok and not corroded/frozen on the the cable wheel.
Loosen the lock nut on the caliper assy and turn the 7/16" bolt in. You'll see the pedal rise up. Stop when there is about 3/4" from the bottom of the pedal to the floorboard. See if this helps.#20 and 21 Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Okay thanks for the links. The ratchet is what broke of my old housing... i should add mines a xplorer is that the same as the sportsman? I guess ill need the hole prepacked housing then.

Would a bendix from a 1994 polaris 300 2x4 fit on my 400? (are they interchangeable?)

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

Yep on both questions.

 

Okay, so I got a new bendix in the quad. And i put the housing back on temporarily. I did order a spring and plastic deal (i think its called a shieve) from royal distributing but that won't be here till the 20th and my friends are planning a quad rally/day trip this saturday. Do you think I would be okay relying on just electric start? Some times I can hear the bendix moving around in the housing (it sounds like it is lightly touching the flywheel from time to time). But that being said I started it quite a few times, reved it up and shut it down and the bendix is engaging and disengaging well. If I do go for the ride I will be bringing my tools with me


For the throttle cable, do I just rewind the new oil line onto the wheel? I haven't opened it up yet but I will be replacing it tomorrow.

 

Just "blip" the throttle right after it starts,helps kick the bendix back faster. The oil pump cable just locks into the wheel,but make sure the mark on the wheel and hosing line up after you install it. If it doesn't just loosen the lock nut and turn the cable adjuster in or out until it does and tighten the lock nut.

 

Okay I will do that thanks. Do you recommend i put any gear oil in the recoil housing?

I will write this down on a notebook and take it out with me when I replace the cable. Thanks!

 

O and do you know what i should torque the recoil housing bolts at?...the flywheel i just tightened with the impact on its lowest setting do you think thats ok?

Could I use permatex aviation gasket around the housing mating surface? Or should i just let it be metal on metal?

 

No gear oil in the housing! Just use a little marine grease under the friction plate(under the 10 mm bolt) to keep it from sticking. 7 pounds torque on the recoil cover bolts.Flywheel should be fine as it's on a tapered shaft. You'd have to use a puller to get it back off anyway!Use any good sealant around the cover that's water,oil resistant. Threebond 1194,1184,Yama bond engine sealant or any good rtv sealant that stays somewhat flexible is the best. Permatex gasket eliminator should be okay if you have it laying around the garage.

 

will water get in if i dont put a gasket material on?...i do have the permatex stuff in the garage


i still am not sure where the friction plate is and what it is