Ok, I will do that tonight after work. Thanks

 

Update, i took it to a guy i know who is a polaris tech, and he has gone over alot of stiff on it. We replaced the crank sensor, he set the tps, the tbap is good, good.compression, valvetrain is working properly, tried different ecm, all with the same results. He mentioned that it had a different cam in it. Have you ever had a Vtwin have a flat cam and if so what did it do? He said hes had single cylinder cams go flat on the exhaust lobe but hadnt had a twin go flat on him. Any advice is appreciated

 

If it had a different cam in it I don't know where in the world it would have come from unless from a specialty,hop up shop. This parallel twin engine acts like one big single cylinder engine. Both pistons move up and fire at the same time. If he just replaced the ecm without having it programmed it wouldn't help. Only cams that I had problems with on the 700 and 800s were a couple that just broke at the turned down outer journal where the cam sprocket mounts.Any ground down lobes could be from using the wrong oil,infrequent changes,or using an aftermarket cam or cylinders that I know some have come out for the Razr. Polaris Rzr800 Aftermarket Parts | Trinity Racing | ATV UTV/MX Powersport Pros | 1(877) FASTOYS | Aftermarket Performance Parts & Service
Plus Hot Cams has one.http://www.hotcamsinc.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=5380

 

Well, another update. I havent given up on this one. After eliminating EVERYTHING electrical and harness related, we came to the conclusion that it had to be an internal problem. We pulled the motor, took it apart and found a bad rod main bearing. It looks like the crank is toast but I'm hoping the engine casing is reuasble. So i'm thinking that a whole bottom end replacement is coming. Do you have any suggestions for reasonably priced parts? The guy I got it from swears up and down that he never heard any knocking or wierd noises

 

Polaris doesn't offer parts for this crank to be able to rebuild it. Through them it must be ordered as an assembly. Hop up shops are around,but costs are pretty high on an 800 crank shaft. It's high enough as is from one of the cheaper online sources. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Some are showing up on Ebay. Here's a Hot Rods rebuilt crank kit.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Rods-Crank-Crankshaft-Complete-Bottom-End-Kit-Polaris-RZR-800-08-10-CBK0123/330986789557?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D570911201107433721%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D330987148332%26

 

I talked with the tech guy this morning and he told me that the freakin pistons and rings will need to be replaced too. Thats kinda wierd since it had good compression. Why would they need to be replaced if it does have good compression? If so I may be better off buying a fully rebuilt crate motor. With my core I can have it shipped to my door ready to bolt n go for $2k. What are your thoughts?

 

Compression tests like everything else is just a generalized function test. You can have fairly good compression but pistons can still be scored/starting to show wear especially at the skirts,cylinder walls starting to show signs of wear,etc. You really don't know unless you use an engine bore scope to check out pistons,cylinders or simply tear one down. A crate engine would be the simplest way to go,but the most expensive. You can rebuild this engine cheaper if you're mechanically inclined,have a good manual,basic tools and a lot of patience.This is strictly up to you..

 

Ive built my own modified dirt track race motors, but Im really good at Chevy V8's and Im fairly new to the atv motors. I suspect theyre somewhat similar, it's a pushrod motor. I getting an estimate from the guy tonight and I'll tell you what it going to cost for him to do it and get your opinion if he's tryin to bamboozle me lol

 

Ok, got my parts ordered. He's chargin me $1k in labor and I think that is fair. My jugs are measuring right at 80mm, maybe .0005" over and they look pretty smooth with a few VERY fine vertical scratches, but have no cross hatching left. I know it is nikasil coated but can I just re-hone it out for a good cross hatch and be good? He told me that up at the dealership they have had them bored and not recoated the cylinders and they were fine. The pistons looked good to me, just a lil wear on the skirts but he wanted me to get new ones and for only another $225 in parts I think thats a wiseco decision.

 

As long as the cylinders still measure with in clearance allowed in the manual you can just ball hone them to break the glaze and restore the cross hatching marks. Don't know where he's getting away with boring past the plating and just installing pistons?? It wouldn't last!! If a Nikasil plating is worn it either needs to be replated or new cylinders purchased.