Was driving the atv and just as I entered the drive way the atv died, I haven't been able to start it for a couple days. I noticed this morning that when I removed the cover on the right handlebar for the ETC that the white wire has pulled loose from the switch...Is that stopping the atv from running? It seemed like when I was entering the drive way and pushed the throttle thats when it had died...

Is there a way to bypass that ETC?

I've got spark, fuel and a compression of around 117. New spark plug only a couple weeks old as is the carb that was recleaned as well and also new fresh gas for this season.

It ran for about 20 mins before it died and was running awesome until it died and for days its been running great...

Help?

Greg

 

White wire from the etc switch runs into the reverse over ride module. Unplug the black wire from this module and see if it helps. If it doesn't,leave the wire unplugged anyway as it will defeat this module that always has problems. You'll have full power in reverse with out having to push the over ride button. The other wire to the etc switch is a red/white power wire. You can unplug it from the terminal board and see if the machine cranks and runs ok then. Not a big fan of trying to defeat the etc switch as it does serve a good purpose. If all else fails a used 300 throttle from any 4 wheel drive on ebay can solve the problem and still retain the etc feature.http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-POLARIS-300-400-Xplorer-4X4-Thumb-Throttle-/351477868882?hash=item51d5b6a952&vxp=mtr Plus compression is a little low at 117psi..

 

Hi,
Thanks for the suggestions, although no change in starting. Should the plug be bone dry after a few seconds of trying to crank it over? I'm wondering now if its fuel thing, I know fuel is getting to the carb, by way of the fuel line, but maybe thats as far as it gets...Also when checking for spark, how did of a spark are we talking when you hold it against the frame and or cylinder?

 

Should be a good blue spark holding the plug cap and plug against the cylinder fins.Or you can pull the plug cap and hold the bare wire close to the fins. Again should have a good spark. Try electrical contact cleaner or starting fluid. If it wont start on that and has spark and fuel, compression may be too low or on rare occasions crank seals behind the drive clutch can pop out.If that happens they will die in their tracks. Same thing can happen when a piston seizes and looses compression.That can happen at any time also. Just eliminate one thing at a time.

 

ok I will try those things as well. How can I check the crank seals behind the drive clutch? Also if the compression is too low and I do in fact need a top end rebuild, can that be done with the engine still left on the atv?

I'm not entirely sure it's getting fuel now, the carb has been cleaned and I have a rebuild kit on the way should be here this weekend, but after cranking the motor over several times the plug its only a tad wet and no smell of fuel really...

Is there a test I can do, to make sure its getting enough fuel through the carb?

 

Look at these videos. Basically the same style carb you have.

 

So I ended up taking the pull start cover off looking for leaks and then checking out the flywheel and oil seal behind the flywheel as well. Then moved on to taking the top first bit off the motor and noticed it was bone dry, I had even tried cranking it over earlier this evening before I removed the top half so I know for sure now its a gas issue because I doubt that it should have been dry, so I'll wait for the rebuild it and see how it goes. Am I correct in thinking that? That it should have been wet? Also the piston and cylinder head were also in good shape.

I also checked for spark with just the wires as you suggested against the fins and there was for sure spark this evening...

Cheers

 

Order a new head gasket also.. Once removed you can't reuse it without having problems.Torque it to 17-19 foot pounds.

 

Hi Again,

So finally have the cylinder back from the machine shop and a brand new piston, all back together including the carb rebuild kit and still no start. Starting to run out of options and money after having the cylinder bored and honed and stuff...

Any suggestions?

 

Still can be the crank seal leaking if you didn't replace it. You can have good top end compression now with a rebuild,good spark,but if the crank seal behind the drive clutch is leaking(the main one most people have problems with) it can't compress the fuel/air/oil mixture enough to shoot up the transfer ports for ignition. Here's a video on how a 2 stroke works.