I have a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 twin EFI with an intermittent problem with power to the fuel pump.
I have changed the fuel pump, checked the circuit breakers, completely went through every ground and all electrical connections. I also cleaned the contacts in the ignition.
The diagnostic codes that show up are 42, 51, 52 and 54.
I thought it was possibly a heat issue, but the problem has happened after sitting all night.
When it happens it will usually come back on within a few minutes.
Sometimes it will run for a week without happening and sometimes it happens several times a day.
Any suggestions?
I'm at a loss and I don't want to haul it 100 miles to the closest dealer.

 

Like the manuals say,80% efi problems are wiring related,not necessarily the sensors themselves.Look at the "sticky" post at the top of this section on 700/800 efi wiring problems. Most common problem on these were the tbap wiring and connectors,followed by an occasional tps wiring or connector problem and also the crank sensor wiring itself. You can check the wiring coming from the tbap and tps sensors for any bare spots or soft feeling wires that could be melted internally. The crank sensor wiring also was a problem area as it rides close to the starter and can rub a bare spot in the wiring. Best to zip tie this harness up away from the engine anyway.Sometimes you can wiggle the wiring harnesses and are able to track down where the problem is. The harness repair kits that Polaris offers are junk. Codes may not always be correct as to what's happening with a machine. Code 41 is engine temp sensor,code 51 and 51 injector 1 and 2. Code 54 is the engine temperature lamp.If these show up hot or cold,codes are probably bogus. Probably none of these are the problem. The sticky post has a link to better harness repair kits.Only The Best If in doubt you can get a manual that can help on electrical troubleshooting,but again most point to wiring or connector problems.2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI Service Manual PDF Download

 

Thanks old polaris tech.
I just got done reading the post about that.
I had a feeling it was still an electrical issue rather than a bad sensor or part.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for the direction.