All right, was re-routing the Throttle and Choke cables (just have not had time, work, ugh), and I noticed the line going from the output of the fuel selector switch and to the carburetor, that line was leaking, so I am replacing that, and the in-line fuel filter in it needs to be replaced, it is cracked and leaking. I have more of the tubing (about 2 feet, in case more of this stuff breaks, and my other quads use it for a lot of things too)(*cough* Suzuki) but I need a link to where I can get another fuel filter like this, as my gas cans tend to carry crud in them, no matter how much I clean them.

 

Other than dealers you can get these small and large white fuel filters at a lot of auto supply stores.Plus along with small engine(lawn mower shops) Some people have used Visufilters,a stone filter that strains even better than paper pleated filters,but that in itself may not be the best. I've used this type filter and did notice that it can restrict fuel flow. Small Engine Fuel Filters

 

Well, sorted out the fuel filter situation, attempted (again) to bleed brakes, broke all 3 bleeder valves off (because they were welded to the things with corrosion), and currently, am confused about a tubing situation to do with the carb. There is a tube running out from the bottom of the carb, that runs to a T connector, and that T connection only has two tubes on it: one coming up from somewhere down from the depths of mordor in there, and the one going down from the carb. the third connection (the one that makes it T) is empty. Currently in a debate with my grandfather (my assistant) over what the heck goes there, if anything at all. Same thing with what I am sure is a vent tube that begins up at where the air box connects to the carb, the tube that starts right next to that. He is all but convinced that it should connect to something, arguing that with how stiff the end is, it was connected at some point. I honestly think he has lost his mind, so, I am asking you, internet (mostly OPT :P). Can add photos if needed.

 

"Depths of Mordor.. First off throw the "Tee" away.. Just confuses people and most are usually missing anyway. The hose at the bottom of the carb bowl is a combination drain and over flow tube. Just run a tube long enough to go past the bash plate,this keeps any fuel off the engine in case of carb leaks. Find the oil pump on the right hand side of the engine. The small line running from it goes to a barbed injector fitting on the left side of the carb.It meters oil according to speed. The tube(s) on the other side of the carb are strictly atmospheric vents and you may have a vent tube for the gear case. Just run new hoses,zip tie to the choke or throttle cable and let them terminate under the back of the fuel tank. Here's what some people find if the tee is still attached. Originally had a one way valve that cause more problems than what it was worth along with the tee.Just do away with it all.

 

Great, got that issue sorted out, drained the bad gas (that ended up being the issue in the end) out of the carb bowl, got it running. Tested the one way valve just by blowing, it still works just fine, and capped the open end of the tee with a short section of new hose with a screw in the end, as not enough new tube to make a line that long was available. Still cannot get the brakes to bleed, considering pulling out from the splitter block the main input tube, bleeding that, and then going and doing each and every section of hose individually if it comes down to it. with the bleeder valves (that never worked anyway) gone, things just don't want to work in a normal manner... Our other ATVs, I can just use the same method as I have to here, or use bleeder valves, and works just fine. Here, NOTHING is wanting to work.

 

Don't block any drain line,etc with a screw. Just asking for trouble. This tubing is cheap and at most auto stores. Try a mityvac on brake bleeding and see if it helps. Usually makes short work of this job if the master cylinder,calipers,etc are in decent shape.

 

No, I meant that one open part on the T joint. The other side that went down into Mordor, I found to be that one way valve you mentioned, so After I did a lung test on the tubing for it, confirmed it still worked just fine, I put that back where I found it, with fresh tubing connecting it to the T. So, it still has that drain line connecting to the bottom of the carb bowl, it just goes down to that one way valve, like the way I found it. The other two Drain/Vent hoses, I have not touched either. Also, how would a mityvac help if all the bleeder valves are broken? Lastly, what kind of transmission oil does this thing use? Ours has the original fluid in it still, and it smells like really really strong Antacid chalk stuff, that is cherry flavored, but the smell is so concentrated it induced compulsive vomiting from me (only time purely smell has ever made me vomit ) Also, it is a very VERY dark fluid now, while the new stuff in all of our cans is a light yellowish color, that is very transparent. Also, to do with the oil pump, the tube that went to the carb, I had to take it out for a moment, and when I did, the oil in that tube was a BRIGHT blue. Any ideas as to Why that TCW3 oil is turning that color in the tube? I checked the oil reservoir, and in there it was the same VERY dark blue oil as in the big jug it came in. Lastly, the oil level sensor that turns on the red low oil light when the oil gets too low in the oil tank, that sensor has broken loose, so any tips for how to re-seal it?

 

Moe power to ya if you want to keep that funky check valve.. If the bleeders are broken on the calipers,try pumping up the master cylinder and loosen the fittings(7/16") on the calipers first. You may have to do this several times to get all the air out. I wouldn't touch the lines leading into the splitter block. Too much trouble and most times easy to strip these out. Use Dot 4 instead of the old Dot 3..Polaris AGL for the gear case or any suitable oil designed for gear cases with chains such as what Amsoil,Maxima,Bel-Ray has. The oil pump injector lines were BLUE from the factory. Clear lines were used on the carb drain and vent lines. Just clean around the oil tank sensor and use rtv and see if that holds it in place.