Okay, so I have had this thing since around 2008, got it for only $200 from a junkyard who labeled this thing as 'totaled'. It was anything but. I have never had ANY major issues with this, and it is always only more minor things, but now, as the years go by, some more critical parts are dying. Also, the layer of what I call supergunk on this thing just gets thicker. I have photos of MOST of the mentioned items that I will attach to the post. Anyway, I am having some issues with the master cylinder and am looking for a replacement, I have the internals and they work fine, but the threads in the end have pulled out (darn aluminum), and it is about done. I can make it push fluid with just the cylinder though, but before the threads stripped out, I could not make it start to push fluid into the lines (blew the old fluid out, was sludge like), so I'm wondering if it is the cylinder design, if I can work form the... lets call it a splitter block until someone can provide the correct name, and bleed individual parts of the hose at a time, seeing as it will not work without a decent back-pressure. Also, I'm having some issues with the fuel selector switch setup leaking gas, and had to strip everything down to get the fuel tank out (have to clean out the debris that got in it) and to remove this switch. Next, I'm a little stingy when it comes to replacing spark plugs, and this one in it is the original one, and I'm wondering if I can get away with cleaning it, or if it is too far gone. Next, there is the random vent tube that has its own indentation channel running along the top of the fuel tank, but neither end was connected to anything, it was just there... it ended up in the indicator light area of the handlebars like most of the other tubes do, have an arrow pointing it out in the photos. Next, The ETC seems a little too touchy on quick throttle advancements around the 3/4 throttle mark, so I was wondering if it is supposed to trigger the majority of the time? It doesn't make sense for it to trigger so easily, so was wondering. Lastly, does anybody know a REALLY good de-greasing soap? The photos were taken after hitting this thing full blast six times over with our pressure washer, and this thing cuts through rock, and this stuff is so tough, it has a shell that takes a VERY hard hit from a sledgehammer to crack. I will say though, this wondrous substance did save the ATV from a massive fire with our old shed, it just will not light on fire. Only had to replace the seat. Anyway, enough of my blabbering, and this giant wall of text, here are the photos.



















Mystery Vent tube

 

New plug. This has done its duty! Don't remove the lines from this soft aluminum block, threads are easily stripped. Bleed the rear caliper first.then move to the front right then left caliper. Easiest if you use a mityvac. Cuts brake bleeding time in half. If a new master cylinder is ever needed cheap after market ones are on ebay. Not worth messing with the older ones when you have trouble with them..

 

Okay, I'll retire the old plug, I won't mess with the aluminum block, but do you have any reccomendations for master cylinders then? The threads stripped, It only really need a new housing, the internals are fine, but if one fits the original spot, I'll take it

 

Body parts are NLA. You can either get a used master cylinder from any of these models on ebay that use your same master cylinder and hope everything works ok,plus a new piston seal kit is around 55 bucks, a reservoir kit is 40 bucks if needed.

Usage : 2050078 Master Cylinder

Year Product Model Assembly
2001 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 DUSE CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A01CH50AD (4960026002B009)
2000 ATV MAGNUM 325 2X4 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CB32AA (4949354935B009)
2000 ATV MAGNUM 325 2X4 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CB32AA (4949354935B009)
2000 ATV 325 MAGNUM 2X4 HDS CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CB32AA (4949354935B009)
2000 ATV MAGNUM 325 4X4 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD32AA (4949404940B010)
2000 ATV MAGNUM 325 4X4 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD32AA (4949404940B010)
2000 ATV 325 MAGNUM 4X4 HDS CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD32AA (4949404940B010)
2000 ATV 325 MAGNUM 4X4 HDS II CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD32AA (4949404940B010)
2000 ATV MAGNUM 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD50AA (4954885488B009)
2000 ATV MAGNUM 500 EB CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD50AA (4954885488B009)
2000 ATV 500 MAGNUM 4X4, HDS CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD50AA (4954885488B009)
2000 ATV 500 MAGNUM 4X4, HDS II CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CD50AA (4954885488B009)
2000 ATV XPLORER 400 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CG38CA (4954875487B010)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AA (4957715771B010)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AA (4957715771B010)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AC (4959905990B011)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AC (4959905990B011)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AC (4959905990B011)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AC (4959905990B011)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH33AC (4959905990B011)
2000 ATV DIESEL CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH46CA (4954785478B009)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 RSE CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 RSE CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CH50AA (4954805480B012)
2000 ATV XPEDITION 325 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CK32AA (4954895489B009)
2000 ATV XPEDITION 325 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CK32AA (4954895489B009)
2000 ATV XPEDITION 425 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CK42AA (4949304930B009)
2000 ATV XPEDITION 425 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CK42AA (4949304930B009)
2000 ATV SPORTSMAN 6X6 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CL50AA (4954815481B010)
2000 ATV INT'L BIG BOSS CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A00CL50AA (4954815481B010)
1999 ATV XPRESS 300 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CA28CA (4949444944b006)
1999 ATV XPLORER 300 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CC28CA (4949484948b010)
1999 ATV MAGNUM 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CD50AA (4949254925B009)
1999 ATV XPLORER 400 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CG38CA (4949634963B009)
1999 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH33CB (4945964596b011)
1999 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH33CB (4945964596b011)
1999 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH33IA (4949884988b011)
1999 ATV SPORTSMAN 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH33IA (4949884988b011)
1999 ATV WORKER 335 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH33IA (4949884988b011)
1999 ATV DIESEL CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH45IA (4949154915B009)
1999 ATV INTL DIESEL CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH45IA (4949154915B009)
1999 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 RSE CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH50AC (4952455245b011)
1999 ATV SPORTSMAN 500 CONTROLS - MASTER CYLINDER/BRAKE LINE - A99CH50EB (4949114911b011)
Or just get an after market CRU master cylinder for 60 bucks.Left Front Brake Master Cylinder for Polaris Sportsman 400 500 550 600 700 800 | eBay

 

Tank hose: On the hose that goes from your tank up to your gauges pod it sounds to be as it should be. It is a breather hose for the gas tank so that as the fuel flows down to your carburetor the vent line allows in air to replace the fuels place. It also keeps the tank from becoming pressurized on hot days when the fumes from the gas within the tank build up (Could become explosive if not for the vent line!). If you ever have it where the atv will run for a short time then kill out it can often be the vent line plugged causing I think what they call a "vapor-lock" of sorts (Don't quote me on that as I'm thinking I got the wrong wording).


Brake cylinder: On your master cylinder if it still works fine (I'm assuming your saying your talking about the part that clamps to the handlebars is stripped out) and you don't have any bolt broken off within it I would imagine you could likely drill and thread the clamp holes to a larger size (Could also insert a helicoil into the larger hole and keep the same size bolt if I am correct)


Spark plug: As Old Polaris Tech said the previously faithful sparkplug is ready for retirement from it's job. A new plug shouldn't cost you more than $5 max unless you go with an upgraded one.


Grease build-up: For getting the old grease oil build-up off all I can offer is a good scrapping tool and a lot of elbow grease. I've ended up myself just having to clean everything by hand as their is not much better of a way to get this grease frustrating mess off.


ETC throttle problem: On your ETC switch I couldn't tell you for sure though taking a good look at your connections and dielectric grease at your connection ends might not be a bad place to start.

 

I was referring to the bolt that connects Brake Line To master Cylinder, the threads INSIDE the Cylinder are stripped, and also, no that isn't the vent tube connected to the fuel tank, That tube is still attached to the fuel tank, which is currently on a shelf in my Shop. It ran along in a groove on the top of the fuel tank then abruptly stopped, and the other end ran up to the Indicator lights console, and went down inside of the steering shaft.... Also, I have the carburetor out at the moment, spent about 3 1/2 hours scrubbing all the grease off of it. It was so thick you could stick your finger 1/4 inch deep into it... It was so tough in spots I had to take a chisel and hammer to chip it off

 

As long as the stock cylinder bolt I have will fit this cylinder, I'll take it.

 

Should mount right up. Does show to fit so many other Polaris models also.

 

Aight, I have two issues now left to deal with. I have it back together now, but still have the air box out as I have some tweaking to do with the carb left. Whenever I turn a Hard left, the engine stalls, and it does so in a manner that resembles the choke triggering. I did take the carb out to clean it, so maybe the choke wire is getting pinched, and the choke is activated? Also, I need some cheap as possible rebuild kits for the front brake cylinders. The rear cylinder has been rebuilt, about 3-4 years ago, so it is fine. I just cannot get the brake line to hold any pressure, and when I pump it up, the fluid will just shoot right back up out of the return hole in the master cylinder. Also, any tips on re-adjusting the carb? The exhaust is a LOT smokier now, as there is about 3-4x as much smoke. It always was smokey, but this is ridiculous. Will get some video and attach soon.

 

Make sure you have about an 1/8" slack or so on the choke lever. If too tight you can adjust that at the carb. On really cold days you can do what they call a "double choke" and flip the lever all the way over if needed to crank. Yes check the choke and throttle cable for binding when you turn the bars.Plus did you install a good carb kit? If not the needle and seat could be worn,float level off allowing too much fuel into the carb and that in itself can cause extra smoking that people think is oil related. Look at this pdf section on carbs from the manual. Can help on adjusting and rechecking your work. Normally the air screw is 1 1/2-2 turns out from a lightly seated position.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA Actually cheaper to just get the seals as most times you can reuse the caliper piston if not damaged. About as cheap here as on ebay.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Plus a mityvac can be your new best tool if you ever use one on bleeding brakes.