Last ride battery icon blinking on dash, battery dead few minutes later. No blink codes showing.After a lot of reading posts here I tried the following :
Recharged battery and checked 4 hrs. later holding 12.7 volts. Did a Current draw key off 01. DCA. Stator check .44 ohms all 3 legs, OL all three legs ( digital multi meter) and at idle getting 18.5 volts AC at mid throttle 53 AC volts. Speedo not showing RPM's. Cleaned all battery and solenoid contacts and ran tests again exactly the same. Was going to post asking how to check regulator/ rectifier and remembered a post about shorting the fusible links to solenoid. Exactly what I found as pics show. Question to experts was the regulator/rectifier the cause as I suspect ?


Lastly I want to thank OPT and others for their invaluable help as this (getting there) old fart would of been lost without the info posted here. Especially as I am electrically CHALLENGED.

 

Fusible links just supply power from the battery to the harness and forwards. You show ac voltage,but what is dc voltage at the battery when engine is at an idle? Fault could lie where ac voltage is changed to dc in the regulator. If less than 13 volts the regulator may be weak,not keeping battery charged. Plus don't overlook the source itself,the battery. Voltage may show good on a 12 volt battery,but can still fail a load test.https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/ho...ry-is-bad.html

 

OPT,
Sorry somehow left that out, after charging battery 12.7 volts upon starting I was only getting 12.2 or 12.3 volts. That's when I decided to clean up battery and solenoid connections and got the same results. Already ordered parts to replace fusible links I am guessing the regulator/rectifier was/is the main problem and needs replacing too. I apologize for the duplicate post figured I did something wrong not seeing it after a day or two so reposted and then BOTH show up at the same time.
Even though battery is 12.7 volts charged I am going to get it load tested just waiting to have to go to town 25 miles away to do it, have to love rural living.

 

You can sort of test it with a multi meter when cranking.Have someone crank it over while you look at the voltage drop.But best to have it load tested on the tester designed for this.Like the article mentioned:
"A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup. Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing."
Yes 12.2 volts is low. Oem regulators aren't cheap,but possible after market ones like this one will work out ok. Just haven't heard that much about them. Voltage Regulator Rectifier Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 2008 | eBay

 

OPT,
Thanks for the reply I am going to order the OEM regulator. In this case I think you get what you pay for although not always the case ( like fusible links LOL ). Just want to get it running so I can get out scouting for hunting. I can not complain first problem I have had even with low mileage/ use.

 

Probably best. Cheapest I've found was $118 at Cheap Cycle Parts. You may be able to find one for less.Polaris 4012384 - Regulator : Cheap Cycle Parts