Okay, we might try sealing our current one back up with epoxy. Lots of Epoxy. This one already has slight clearance issues, but they have been worn down by the mechanism, so as long as the thing doesn't shift, it doesn't hit. We have already had to seal up a fuel pump, an entire air box, and half the body on one of our atvs, we should be able to handle sealing this crack in the dust cover.

 

The main reason the clutch covers made noise,sliced covers from belts,etc was that they were too close to the outline of the clutches,air couldn't circulate as well and were made of soft plastic that could get hot and warp. I've seen all sorts of melted covers. The updated covers allowed a tad more room and were made a lot stronger and this generally took care of the problem. The latest bulbous covers allowed more room and air circulation plus air inlets and ducts were larger and they had drains.Some used these and modified air their ducts to fit. As far as fuel pumps just get a cheap one on ebay for less than 12 bucks..http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Fo...xYXe4W&vxp=mtr

 

Oh, we already got a replacement pump for that thing. It was just a stopgap. One of the little vacuum fuel pumps, or pulse pumps for our 07 Arctic Cat 400. Just mentioned the stuff then because I had just finished putting all the epoxy on it, and it was fresh on my mind. And hands. The sun took a massive disliking towards it. Body used to be red. Bleached to nearly white. Same for almost all plastics on the exterior. Cracked all over too. That is why we epoxied it, because we were lucky enough that the epoxy turned this SAME color when it cured. Air box cracked during a massive heat wave we had a while back, and it was too big to fit under our shed (too long and wide to make it work, compared to our smaller Polaris, the subject of this article, and our tiny Suzuki LT F-250 Quadrunner. Little thing is an octopus. Fits almost everywhere.)

Also, the carbohydrolyzer-doohickey kit is here. No, not a typo, it is my new nickname for the carb, because it has comedy value and a backstory based on a friend getting drunk to the point of retardation. Anyway, back to the point at hand, which I shall go about bringing up in the bluntest manner possible; Wat do? In terms of adjusting and checking I don't screw it up. I get how to switch all the stuff out, change idle speed back to where it needs to be, and simple things, but once it gets more complex than turning a screw carefully, I tend to mess up adjustments.

 

How you really adjust the pilot screw is to have the engine warm,pilot screw at base setting,engine at at a steady idle around 1000 rpms or so,doesn't have to be dead on. Idle adjuster low enough to where it shifts without grinding gears when shifting. Turn the pilot screw out slowly until the engine begins to bog then back in until the idle is smooth and throttle action is smooth. OR as some do,out on the pilot screw until the engine starts to bog,then back in(counting turns)until the engine runs rough again and then set the pilot between these two points. Usually close to the setting on what the blamed manual calls for in the first place in a lot of cases..

 

Okay, so, I have put all the new components in, excepting one. Cannot figure out for the life of me where it goes. Tiny little thing, flat head, a small section of threads near the head, but hollow, the whole way through, including in the center of the flathead, where there is a tiny hole. Near the other end, are two sets of symmetry 4 holes (one every 90 degrees around it, and two sets of this), with a little tiny lip past that, that is like a mini tube connection. Any hints as to what this lonely little guy is and where he belongs? Came as part of the rebuild kit, if that helps, and I can send a photo if needed.

 

Pilot jet that sets right behind the main jet. Sets deep. Use a good screw driver to get it out so you don't mess up the slotted head. Look at this section from the manual on cv carbs. You have the VM30 carb.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA Plus here's a couple videos on your carb that can help.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOJlHIUUBk0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfVQUBO7LjQ

 

Actually, It was a two stroke carb according to the service manual diagram. Has the circular metal airflow restrictor with the needle going through it, and the big fat spring on it. Found the spot though, so it was all good. After a bit of tinkering with the pilot screw, I got her running and idling at least as good as before, it sounded.

 

Glad you have it running.. Actually on this two stroke carb,this screw is called the air screw and located at the rear of the carb.It cuts down or allows more air to enter the carb to mix with the fuel.Usually sets between 1 1/2-2 turns out depending on condition of engine.On a 4 stroke,the pilot screw is closer to the front of the carb and controls fuel flow into the cab at an idle. I'm guilty of calling them one or another myself..

 

Yeah, that was about the initial level I gave it, remembering from an old thread. Was still a little cantankerous, so I fiddled with it till it started to actually idle. The exhaust at the front is being a bit smokey, but I am pretty sure that is from it being covered in oily gas when the great flood of fail happened. After a bit, parts of it started to regain a dry appearance, but that was also about the point I decided to knock off for the night. About to resume idling it for a bit, seeing as we just had very heavy rains overnight and I cannot take it for a ride again. The whole two and a half week wait when this happened was from a rain that was lighter than this anyway, so it might be a month till I can get it out and ride it, unfortunately.

 

Well, with one one unhappy carb out of the way, I finally have time to get back to this thing. So, since I last posted, it has decided it doesn't want to run anymore. Oh joy. Bout to resume tinkering, will keep updated.