I just picked up a 425 magnum with no spark and am in the process of diagnosis and with the help of other threads in this forum, started testing components.

Here is what I have found so far.
A lot of the wiring at the terminal block was disconnected, using the markings and wire colors I am pretty sure that i got things back where they belong.

Off-run switch on left grip checks out ok, closed circuit when off etc.

Etc switch on the right grip functions correctly , not sure if this would have been an issue or not.

Tested black and green wire from stator coil--446 ohms

And here is the one that I find interesting, the pulse or trigger coil should hav e about 97 ohms has 0 or no continuity at all. does this mean the trigger coil is toast?.

I am not sure if the voltage reg may contribute to or be the cause of a no spark issue or not (I dont think so really) and I have not been able to find any description of how to test a cdi. (If it's even possible).

I welcome any help that the more enlightend than myself would care to offer.

Thanks!

 

446 ohms on the stator is good.If ohms resistance between the white and white/red pick up coil wires shows 0 then sounds like you found the problem.You can find them on ebay or amazon. Plus wouldn't hurt to pull the recoil and check if the solder has broken loose from one of the pick up coil wires. Had that happen before.

 

I did already have the recoil off and checked for the solder joint issue after finding your mention of it in another post.

I was checking resistance on other things and with the ignition coil, the primary windings were in spec, I dont recall the exact reading at the moment, but I was unable to get any reading between the spark plug boot and the tab ground on the coil itself. Am I doing this correctly?
Could the Iggy coil be smoked as well as the pulse trigger coil?

Would the demise of one take the other with it?
It seems rather coincidental for both to go at the same time...

 

Just pull the plug boot off and check its resistance. Should be close to 5k ohms. 6.3k ohms resistance on the coil tab to bare wire end according to the manual.

 

yup, thats just what I did and nada.

I have a trigger/pulse coil and iggy coil on order via ebay.

Will post what happens when it does, or doesnt...

thanks for your time!

 

Ok, so I got the parts in today, Triiger coil was definily kaput, new one tested out @ 103 ohms, certainly within the 20% threshhold.

Checked the ign coil again, got the 6.3 k ohms on the secondary, just as I should have.

I just re-read one of your replies and came to more understanding of what you said about the plug boot, tested it and it's an open connection, no continuity whatsoever. I can feel the test leads hitting metal in there and kept at it for a while but no dice.

I attempted to check for spark by cranking with the bare end of the plug wire, with out the cap and got no spark either.



So,
trigger coil -- good

ign coil -- apparenly good

plug boot -- not good but cannot get spark directly from wire to engine ground either.

CDI box?

 

Sounds like it if you still show 446 ohms on the stator also as the manual shows. Aftermarket cdis on ebay that may be hit or miss as far as reliability. 96 Polaris Magnum 425 cdi | eBay Plus you'll need a new plug boot.These are not cheap for these resistor boots if you go oem. Around 50 bucks,but again knock offs are showing up and cheaper.3084980 Polaris | eBay Before you buy any parts,pull the black kill wire from the cdi and see if you have spark with the bare wire. If you do the problem can be in the switches or wiring. Plus not unusual for the kill circuit in the cdi to short out also.

 

I did pull the black wire from the cdi to check if there was a short somewhere in the peripheral equipment, still no spark from the bare wire.

Ran ohm checks on all the other wires from the stator and all but the yellow, which goes to the voltage regulator were within spec with everyting I could find in online service manuals. The yellow however, has continuity to ground which shows there should be no connection. I dont think this could be related to the lack of spark but I am not sure. It could be a separate issue.

I guess I am going or a cdi box next, will post the results...

 

Shorted yellow stator charge wires can cause the regulator not to charge and in turn the regulator can possibly take out a cdi module. Sounds like a new stator needed.You could try a cheap one like a lot of people have done and see if it holds up plus check that it's charging ok when you get it running.Stator FITS POLARIS Magnum 425 2x4 4x4 6x6 1995-1999 NEW 4-Stroke Sounds like it's more than just a cdi problem.

 

IT'S ALIVE! (sort of)

I replaced the stator with a new aftermarket unit, The CDI, with a salvage OEM part, And a new aftermarket plug boot and she sparks like a lightning storm.

So I set up a fuel supply, get things in order and crank it over.
After a while of cranking, and making sure I am getting fuel, the lines tank pump etc were dry as the Mojave Desert, (I think this thig was run dry and has sat for a good long spell) I was only getting a very short 1/2 second burst of fire and it would quit.
Remembering a thread I saw, I think it was here, I disconnected the black wire from the cdi and varoooom! it came to life. I can reconnect the wire and it will keep running but I need to pull the wire for it to start and run. I would think if I plugged it back in it would close a kill circuit and shut it down but this is not the case.
It is idling very high, Not sure if the carb needs cleaning or what just yet, But was looking through a service manual and noticed a section on cv carb operation. There is a port on the inlet side of the carb that permits air to the diaphram on top of the carb. I currently have the airbox off for access, could this cause the high revs? Is the airbox required for proper operation of the carb?
OPT, with your gentle guidance, this thing is slowly coming back to life!