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  #1  
Old 06-18-2017, 11:39 AM
Weekend Warrior
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Default 1995 Xplorer 400 Starter Switch and General Maintenance

I bought one used from CL and it had electrical issues. It has under 2000 miles and needs a minor carb tune. The PO had connected the battery backwards and had tried to replace the 20A circuit breaker. The issue was start and no four wheel drive.

I found the circuit diagram online and found that the starter relay is positive controlled. Measured 3.9ohm on the relay coil, so I touched it to the positive battery terminal and the starter kicks over fine. The switch is bad. I have a temporary switch wired in so I no longer have to pull. Has anyone had any success at taking the handlebar switch apart and repairing it? Are these typical failures- I don't want to pay $100 for a switch assembly when I can repair it or fix it for $5 with a separate switch?

The no 4 wheel drive was not working because they hadn't connected the circuit breaker properly and the shift position switch was not getting voltage to it and therefore not providing voltage to the AWD switch. The whole repair was about half an hour.

For most of the fluids, do you usually go to the local Polaris store or are there better or equivalent but cheaper fluids?

I have the 96-98 Service manual, is it mostly the same for the 95?

Thanks,
Tim
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:11 PM
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The manual you have is basically the same for your model.Could be some differences in the gear cases,etc. You don't have to use Polaris fluids but the Demand Drive hub fluid I would use. Polaris Agl for the gear cases or oil suitable for chain driven gear cases such as Amsoil,etc. Any good synthetic 2 stroke oil for the injector system or premix.The switch can be a pita because of the small ball bearing,spring and brass plates that can fly out. Most people don't have much luck tearing them apart. Sounds like you have a lot of the problems sorted out. If the switch is beyond help you might try a used one as the part# shows to be obsolete.http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=4110157%20Polaris
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:05 PM
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Hi, thanks for the info. Switch is easy, even if I do an aftermarket start only switch.

I've got other problems. I am dumping oil out of the exhaust. Seems to have really good compression though. Could it be the oil pump is over delivering. The previous owner had it on the reserve tank... is the reserve tank supposed to be mixed fuel and the oil pump is giving it more oil and it's burning it off.... just reaching here....

Thanks,
Tim
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:16 PM
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Oil pumps on the 400 were really the only ones to have trouble mainly because they were located where moisture and dirt could corrode them.You can pull the pump cover and see if the pump,spring and wheel are ok. Many have removed the injector hose at the intake manifold,blocked it off with a 6mm bolt and premixed.Here's a sample pic of the oil pump. The pump is set a little on the rich side as you can see the mark on the wheel and the barely visible mark on the pump body. This is a pump in good condition. Many weren't after years passed and often neglected. They can corrode and not work properly and damage engines when they did.
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:29 PM
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ok, thanks. I considered pre-mix, but not at all sure yet what's happening.

What compression should I have? How much $ and time is a top end rebuild expected to take. I see the kits for about $100. It's got almost 2000 mile on it does it see time for the rings to go. If there's also play in the crank how much will a top and bottom end rebuild cost me.

Thanks again. BTW, I posted to this site mostly because I see that you respond quickly and give expert advise. Thanks Polaris ATV Expert!!!

Thanks,
Tim
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:54 PM
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Any compression low than 100 psi isn't good. Some even at 110psi may not run that well.This is the most complicated engine Polaris had. Just look at your manual as to what all's involved in a complete top to bottom rebuild. If the rod has up and down play a new rod kit will have to be installed along with replacing the three crank bearings and seals. Then you get to the top end.Have the cylinder measured to the next over size piston that will clean up the bore. Wiseco is the best piston out there. Complete engine gasket kits are on ebay and amazon. Plus you have the water pump seals and bearing also that need to be replaced.The manual can help you step by step.
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Old 06-18-2017, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tprothma View Post
Hi, thanks for the info. Switch is easy, even if I do an aftermarket start only switch.

I've got other problems. I am dumping oil out of the exhaust. Seems to have really good compression though. Could it be the oil pump is over delivering. The previous owner had it on the reserve tank... is the reserve tank supposed to be mixed fuel and the oil pump is giving it more oil and it's burning it off.... just reaching here....

Thanks,
Tim
If it's like all the Polaris ATVs I've had there isn't a separate reserve tank. It just has 2 outlets at different levels in the gas tank. When the top hose can't get any more gas switch it to reserve and the bottom hose will still get gas.
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Old 06-19-2017, 12:33 AM
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jumbofrank, yes. I'm still getting familiar with the machine. I traced both incoming fuel lines back to the same tank as you said. Chalk that one up to lack of experience on these and not easy to see all the stuff tucked away.

old polaris tech, I'm getting just under 120 psi. This confirms my suspicion that compression is good. I kinda suspected it was because before I bypassed the starter switch it was really hard to pull. Also the guys I bought it from looked me square in the eye when I asked if there was anything known mechanically wrong. They'd been fairly straight with seemed very sincere when they said mechanically it was fine.

The oil pump is set to only slightly rich (not nearly as rich as the picture you posted).

EDIT: Also the cb (engine) oil only seemed a little low and if it were blowby oil I'd suspect the oil level to be lower. I have it slightly tilted so really hard to tell on this, but engine oil is only a few ounces capacity and I think it dumped at least an ounce through the exhaust. It was spewing out of the exhaust.

I did find that the previous owner had routed the fuel line over the cross member and it may have been starved for gas???

Anyway I think my best course of action is to pre-mix, block the oil from the pump, get the carb settings straight then adjust the oil pump. Is there a preferred way to block the oil from the pump?

Thanks,
Tim

Last edited by tprothma; 06-19-2017 at 12:40 AM. Reason: Add more details
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:48 AM
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Easier to just drain the oil tank,remove the injector hose from the intake manifold and block it off with a 6mm washer and bolt. You can leave the pump as is. The throttle cable splits to the oil pump but no problem leaving it hooked up. If you want to go to a single cable this place has them along with other goodies.
Aaen Performance - Polaris ATV Two Stroke - Top End Pipes
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  #10  
Old 06-19-2017, 10:42 AM
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Once again, excellent informaton

Does this video explain the carb rebuild for my 400 Xplorer.
https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...ml#post3357978

Is this the kit on Ebay 03-404 for my exact carb?
Shindy Carb Repair Kit For Polaris Sportsman Sport Xplorer 400 4x4 94-95 03-404 | eBay

Thanks,
Tim
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