Look at your other post..

 

Old Polaris tech I took a look at the slide and operated with compressed air off of the Bike. It seemed to hang a little so I went ahead and replaced the slide assembly and jet block in the Carb. I noticed when I pulled Jet block the o-rings were deteriorating. It looked like gas may have been passing up through the air passage. I am wondering if I was pulling additional fuel from the bowl instead of just air when I was WOT. I am assembling the carb and going to retest the machine this week. Ill keep you posted. I ruled out the air box since the fairings are off and when I rev the engine it was still bogging.

 

Dillion

Book states to look for the following:

Faulty Ignition
Rev Limiter
Clogged Exhaust
Wrong jetting
Float Maladjusted
Timing Off

I would look at the ignition system first. See if the spark looks good. There are test you can do with the proper equipment to test various parts of the Ignition system. Best bet is if you have access to an oscilloscope. Most multi-meters do not scan fast enough to take a viable reading even with a DVA(Digital Voltage Adapter). If the spark is not a nice blue arc you may have a weak ignition coil or an issue with your CDI or stator. I would also check the timing if you have a lot of hours on the machine. There are two marks on the flywheel. One is for TDC and the other is for the machine timing. The marks are difficult to see it may be beneficial to pull the cover and paint them with some whiteout etc. I dont have a manual for your machine to give you specs. Also another issue at least with my machine is the foam under the tank will deteriorate and block off the snorkel on the air intake. Not sure if the 425 is similar.

 

Some other things the 325,425 and 500 share is that the slotted nut can back off that holds the crank sprocket tight causing the sprocket to wallow out the woodruff key. Also the flywheel woodruff key can shear throwing off timing on all these models. This is easy to check by just pulling the flywheel nut and checking. Still just my two cents on bogging,no top end power on a lot of 425/500 engines can be caused by exhaust lobe wear. Some may appear to look ok as many have posted,but if worn down enough they can keep the exhaust valves from opening far enough. No amount of carb adjustment or repair can compensate for this. I did mention that one year model(can't remember which one) on the 325s did give us fits at the shop.Some wouldn't run good with the seat on or would run ok while standing up. Found that the air box snorkel was pushing against the tank blocking off air flow. A simple 45 degree cut back on the snorkel tube with a hack saw solved that problem.

 

Sorry I couldn't figure out how to start new forum so I hope you can help on this one .. I just bought a 01 polaris magnum 325 4x4 and it is giving me real trouble popping in low gear and when I do it's extremely hard to get out .. it grinds when riding and I am stuck on what it might be ? Any help ? Oh And I can't for the life of me find the transmission dipstick or where to fill it with fluid

 

My first guess because I had to do a few of them is the coupler on the rear prop shaft has stripped out. There's a grease fitting on it but most people didn't know it had a coupler let alone a grease fitting.Plus it was hard to see the zerk fitting through the hole in the box frame to be able to grease it. Part#18.If you have help you can pull the swing arm assembly. If it's just you then easier to remove the rear diff,drive shaft and tubes.If that's not where the problem is the could be a silent chain or gear problem in the gear case.This gear case is complicated.Drain plug on the side or bottom and 9/16" fill plug. Have to look over the foot well to see the plug. On any of this you need a good manual.http://polaris-atv.brssm.com/2001-Po...ce-Manual.html

 

OPT have you ever had an issue where the feul mixture adjustment did not seat properly and come through the opening into the throttle body.. My carb FMA is about 2mm unseated when tight. Wonder if i received the wrong screw.can not see any issues with the threads or old washer or seals in the opening obstructing the screw from seating.

 

Never had a problem with any carb kit on the pilot screw whether Moose or even a cheaper brand.Make sure there isn't an old metal or rubber washer stuck deep in the opening. If in doubt order an oem fuel screw from Partzilla or a local dealer.Moose is an ok kit but doesn't hold a candle to the quality of Shindy. You might also shine a light through the hole and see if you can all the way through. Some one may have broken a tip on a fuel screw previously. If they have,the carb is junk.