1991 Polaris Trail boss 250 4 x 4 charging system help! With the battery off the bike, when I pull start it I have .0 voltage when I Revit up the voltage jumps up to 14.5 ish votes, with the battery installed on the bike I have battery voltage which is 12.5 running at idle when I Revit up it jumps up to 14.5 ish any ideas or suggestions will be very appreciated thanks in a Advance the new guy.... lol

 

You don't have to have a battery to start these old machines,stator charge coil will still work,but there has to be 12 volts from a battery to the regulator red wire so the regulator can work properly and can help transform ac power from the stator to dc voltage. Unhooking a battery isn't good on electronic modules or bulbs either. Voltage surges have to go somewhere when a battery isn't hooked up and the bulbs are usual the first to go because they offer the least resistance and at times modules can short out.

 

So..12.5 volts is sufficient at idol with battery connected ?
Thanks for the reply I was hoping you would respond, you're the best.

 

I was thinking my alternator isn't charging right because it should be 14 V At idle? I just want to make sure my bike is ready to hit the trails I don't want to be stranded in the woods with no lights��

 

As long as it gets to 14 volts at a higher idle that's all that matters. These older models didn't charge very much at an idle. Most would barely stay above battery voltage. The newer,higher wattage machines reach full charge at an idle.

 

Ok thanks!!! I also purchased a 20" light bar off amazon it's 120 watts do you think my bike will keep up? Or will it drain my battery/ fry something?

 

May be a load for this older model with the smaller 150 watt alternator but since you've already ordered it give it a try. Hopefully it has good instructions on wiring,but here's another one on that.
How to Install LED Light Bar Wiring

A more complete guide to LED light bar wiring is here, but the general steps are these:

Always disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before starting the wiring.
Use automotive grade wire. GPT is acceptable, but GTX and TLX grades are better.
Use a wire gauge that matches or exceeds the maximum current of your LED light bar.
Fuse power wires to the expected current draw, not the wire size.
Use an automotive switching relay if the light bar draws 10A or greater.
With or without a relay, use a cab switch rated for at least 10 amps.
Use waterproof wiring connectors. Check for these at a local marine shop.
Avoid unnecessary splices, but use a snap-in connector at the light bar to ease removal.

 

Thank you for the help I appreciate it... I'll install soon and give you the results.... thanks again!