Hello,

I have a 1998 Polaris Xplorer 300 that was previously running fine. However, it died on me and I had trouble getting it to start with the pull start. I replaced the battery and it now starts fine but will not make power. Even in neutral, it will not rev up. If I drive it in reverse, it makes enough power to move but not rev up like normal. I found that if I push the reverse override switch, it will rev up higher but not like normal. This is in both forward and reverse as well as neutral. I tried unplugging the black wire in the front but nothing changed at all.

I'm thinking this might be the CDI. I wanted to see what you all thought before I spent $80 on the following, it's the only one that I have found.

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...CDI-Box-15_510

Thank you for any help!
Kurt

 

Pull the black wire on the reverse limiter at the terminal board and see if that solves the problem. It defeats the limiter and you won't have to push the over ride button to get full power in reverse. Limiters can fail and cause problems in reverse and forward range. If it still doesn't seem like you have full power,do a compression check.Should be over 100 psi+ for it to run right. Dying on you and hard to restart could be a sign that you may have had a partial piston seizure. Item #28 is the reverse limiter module. You can also pull the black kill wire from the cdi and see if that helps. If it's running though the only time a cdi would be a problem is if the cdi kill wire shorts out and cuts spark when hooked up and the left control switch and ignition switch check out ok.

 

Old polaris tech,
Pulling the black wire from the circuit board didn't have any affect at all. It still wouldn't make power unless I pushed the reverse override switch.

Which item is the CDI? I'll try disconnecting the black wire and see what happens.

I don't have a way to check compression so I would have to get that done at a shop.

Thank you for all your help!

 

You can always try this that people have done."Trace wires from the override button (gray/white & gray/orange) Cut the gray/orange and tape up both ends. Cut the gray/white and tape up the end which goes to the override button. Connect the other end of the gray/white to the red/white (ignition supplied 12v)"
Before you do started cutting wires I'd still check compression. You can rent these compression tester kits at most auto stores for a small refundable deposit. The cdi looks like this one.Just pull the black wire. If no change,I wouldn't suspect it as it either works or it doesn't. The only exception is if the black kill wire shorts out internally when hooked to the other blacks on the terminal board,but they usually lose spark if this happens.

 

I haven't had the chance to try the wiring changes you suggested but I did notice something new. I was just riding it and if the headlights switch is on HIGH, it runs similar to when the reverse override was pushed. Not 100% power, maybe 50% but better. If the switch is in the low or off position, power is only maybe 25%. It would then go to 50% if the reverse override was pushed.

It definitely seems like something is shorted coming from the switches on the left side of the handlebars. Does that make sense?

Also, the headlights are off when the switch was on. Not sure if they were previously working. I just inherited this ATV so I don't have much history on it. Thanks again for all your help!

 

Trace the yellow and green wiring from the lights up into the wiring harness.Strip the sheathing if you have to on the wires leading into the switch. I've found shorts in this area also. If the wiring checks ok,switch may be the problem.Cheapest I've found is 85 bucks on ebay for this 4110193 part number.