I bled the bolt on the head also the top end was replaced not long ago still looks really good

 

I'd still check compression as something's causing it to die after it runs awhile.Just to eliminate low compression as a cause as it could be that or even an electrical problem. Also check that the tank vent is open along with the vent line on the carb and that you have good fuel flow to the carb.This can cause an engine to vapor lock and die until it's able to get another "glug" of air so to speak. You can always drain the 10mm counter balancer screw at the bottom of the crank case. Located left of the crank case drain screw. You can fill with kerosene,spin the engine over with the recoil and drain the milky mess out. Fill with 150ccs of 0w40,5w40,etc. IF it turns milky again it's a sure sign of water pump seals leaking. Don't think I ever had problems with reeds on the 400 that I can remember.

 

Ok I'll check the vent lines first cus I'm tight on money so I kinda need to start with the cheapest thing first and the compression tester is 30 dollars also the carb while it is running it blows air back thru the carburetor could that have something to do with it dying

 

Yes spitting back through the carb can be a sign of low compression.If it doesn't have enough top end compression (or a good sealed bottom end,crank seals) to atomize the fuel/oil/air mixture properly,some of this can just spit out the back of the carb. Most auto stores will "rent" a compression tester kit for a refundable deposit.Just eliminate this.

 

So it was a Vacuum line i rode it for hours today and it ran good but now I gotta another problem why would it feel gutless like I'll be doing around 40 mph at Quarter throttle then put it to the floor it revs up higher but doesn't go and faster thanks for all the help

 

Tank vent line kinked or carb atmospheric vent not secured and touches the exhaust pipe and melts,does the same thing as the tank vent,doesn't allow the carb to get enough air. I had plenty of problems with both of these.Engine revving up,but not going anywhere is almost always belt or clutch related.Belt could be stretched or burnt or the clutch buttons may need to be looked at especially the ramp buttons on the rear clutch.

 

Ok so its still mixing water and counter balance oil so gonna replace the water pump seal today does the water pump have to be torqued down to certain foot pounds or does it really matter as long as I get it tight

 

Get the manual for your year model as it goes in good detail on the two water pump seals,which one goes first and also the bearing and the hole in the pump housing that must not be blocked.. Torque setting is under general torque setting chart in the manual for this size nut. Off hand around around 5-7 foot pounds I believe.Polaris ATV Service Manuals PDF Download

 

Alright well I got it apart but I can't find the tool to get this nut off do you have a link to the the tool I need

 

You don't need the slotted nut socket. Just use a dull chisel to break the nut loose. Reverse threads. When you reassemble use blue loctite on the threads,spin the nut on and use the dull chisel again.You don't have to beat the nut to death,just tighten it and give it one last tap with the chisel. IF you want to buy the tool it's 40 bucks for an aftermarket one here.https://www.ebay.com/itm/152096524715?rmvSB=true 35 bucks here.Polaris Balance Shaft Slotted Nut Socket PA-47344 - In Stock Motorsports, Inc. Nut torque is 36-44 foot pounds.Plus others have made their own.