I have a 99 ranger 6x6 500

The thing worked good when I brought it in, Now I just bought this machine and decided to change all fluids , grease, change belt etc.

Got it all back together and it moved and than just stated smoking the belt.
so I took the belt cover off and on the driven clutch the belt was all the to the inside or bottom of sheaves with not much side pressure, so when giving it throttle it would pull belt in and slip the belt, so I took the belt off and the driven clutch and took apart and found the plastic buttons worn, and the washer under the snap ring pretty worn, it had a red spring in it, I am familiar with snowmobile driven clutches and this seems to be the same principal.

When clutch is off the main shaft spins fine so its in the driven clutch , I see epi has a lot of clutch rebuild kits for these things, or should I just get individual pieces oem? I think something failed in the clutch just letting belt drop down and not keeping side pressure on the belt. Spring looks good , but buttons are worn.. I also see on the helix that it looked like it went over the highest part of ramp to the other side?? this machine has 827 Hrs on it.

Thanks..

 

Worn ramp buttons will do this plus allows the spring to jump out of the bottom part of the clutch. Have had this happen several times. Make sure the spring still has the curved tip on each end(not broken) and the helix is still ok,not ground down. Just replace the ramp buttons and 3 screws if necessary. Install the spring in the #2 position of the helix,align helix with the wide spline on the shaft and slide down. Install the bottom of the spring in the #2 position on the clutch sheath. Helps to have helping hands or c clamps next. Hold the helix down and while holding it and the top sheath,turn the bottom sheath 1/3 turn counter clock wise. Hold both sheaths or use c clamps,then knock the helix down all the way and replace the washer and circlip. When you release the c clamps the clutch should snap back under the spring pressure. Then install it and see if it works ok. I have found them to where the screws were snapped off and the bottom sheath was beyond repair. Hopefully you can salvage the clutch.
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Thanks for the info.

I have a driven clutch rebuild kit coming from epi along with a new spring that has alittle more side pressure. The original helix the washer under the snap ring was pretty worn out and the helix had a liitle wear from that.. the original washer is .020 So I figured I have other shims that are .030 and figuring the little bit of wear in the helix this should put it right back to where it needs to be.. one thing I did not notice a wider spline for the helix to slide down on?? But I will look.. I am used to doing snowmobile keyed secondaries and I think the same followes with this.One other question I do Have is When in gear and than flipping the switch for fwd It almost wants to slip out of gear and I have to hold the shifter in either forward or reverse gear to keep it in awd, Seems like a adjustment almost?? as soon as I push on the shifter the red lite goes on the switch , indicating its in awd, as soon as I take my hand off shifter , the lite goes out?? But Not all the time, I do not want to force it either!!

Thanks..
Again for all your Help.
Donny....

 

Hopefully you can adjust the shift linkage.Place it in neutral,loosen 10mm lock nuts,remove the 10mm nuts on the linkage ends and adjust the linkage arms to where both drop STRAIGHT in the shift lever arms with no pulling or binding. Hopefully this will help. The shift box itself can get sloppy and worn over the years and sometimes adjustment doesn't help. It might need to be replaced as trying to replace all the worn parts costs as much as a new one.Look here at the linkage.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
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Last question, Do you know of a winch and mount kit that would be available for the 99 ranger..

If not I can make something

 

Dealers might still have some old mounting kits around plus there are several places online that can help. This one goes back to 2002 but you can give em a call.Plus just Google your model on mounting kits. Does show several places. Polaris Ranger Winch Mount - Winch Mounts - POLARIS - RANGER - 2002-2008 Ranger 4x4 / 2x4 / XP - Polaris Ranger Winch Mount - KFI ATV Winch, Mounts and Accessories
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Thankyou For all Your help..

Donny...

 

My updates got it all back together and secondary clutch works great, installed new bushings, buttons , spring. changed all fluids , 6 new tires , new battery , installed a windshield and roof.

Took it out and it seems very good on the frozen trail, my last problem is the machine does not pop out of any gear and they all work but when I flip the awd switch the light will not come on in the switch till I push the shifter forward and hold it, I tried adjusting linkages and they all seemed good unbolted them and in neutral they came right out.

Im am wondering if there is another adjustment that engages the switch to work the awd like I said if I just push it forward and hold it , it works fine.. All others work great.

Can I just lengthen that rod? Funny thing is when I put it in reverse I do not have to hold it and the lite comes on..

Thanks..
Donny..

 

I think mechanically everything is good because it stays in any gear you put it in, I am only assuming that somewhere either the linkage or shifter when put it any gear is activating some sort of electrical switch than engaging and making a complete circuit for the awd?

I have not yet got into it, but if thats the case why could you not find the wires for that switch and just jump them and when you want awd you just hit the dash switch to0 lock it in??

 

Look back at my first post and the link to the shifter and linkage breakdown,the switch is in the shift box. When you have to hold the shift lever to get the awd light to come on then either the shift box parts are worn too much to engage the shift box switch or the switch has worn down too far to fully engage in high range. Usually this happens only in high range,low and reverse usually work ok. I've done both,replace the high dollar switch or even the higher dollar shift box that includes the switch. You can also remove the shift box,tear apart and see if you can move this switch a little more forward. The square rubber grommet fits in a groove in the shift box and can be moved a little. Worth a try!
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