ok I got this thing 4 months ago and it needed a fuel pump so i picked up a new Bosch pup at work installed it and my machine came to life put a new k&n air filter in it changer oil and spark plugs and I can't get it to idle right when I first start it up it seems to idle fine after it's warmed up but on first start up it idles at 875 to 950 I do believe and has a bad miss when you take off once it's warmed up it's fine no problems at all I have replace three sets of sparkpluggs since I got it keeps burning them up half the electrode will be a light grey the other half will be black but the plugs are not wet with oil or fuel any suggestions would be great full

 

80 percent of efi problems is in the wiring and connector,not in the sensors.Usually the idle area is controlled by the t-map.Check the wiring for abrasions or shorts or soft feeling wires that may have melted internally. This place came into being because of the cheap harness repair kits that Polaris supplied.I replaced many only to have them fail again. Look over their site and what they offer.https://otbpowersports.com/products/

 

Thank you sir I sure will and thanks again for the guidance I love this rzr but I have to say my 96 fourtrax 300 is still old faithful lol

 

Well I checked the wires they all felt good and solid so I unplugged the sensor and it ideal a lot better no miss so I may be the unlucky one that actually had a sensor go out or the previous owner pulled it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner

 

Would you happen to know if there is any testing to be done on the sensor

 

So one last question why in the world are my spark plugs sooty black every month and after cleaning the throttle body and reinstalling the t-map sensor I'm Odell g at 2650 to 2859 that seems kinda high to me

 

Ok I do understand I'm running rich but I don't know how to adjust this out on ego that is

 

Don't mess with the tps sensor settings as you can get it all all out of whack. It takes a harness,9 volt battery and regulator to set the tps to a base vdc setting,then finalized by the "D" shaped idle screw. Pulling the connector from the t-bap and it idles better still sounds like the harness or connector again may be the problem not the sensor.The t-bap can be removed and lightly cleaned and reinstalled. It's located on the throttle body boot(item#12).Sensors can go out,but again most of the time it's the wiring harness or connector leading to it.Hopefully the po didn't damage the t-bap sensor.

 

Ok so I got a known good sensor and no changes at all wires all checked out good and I noticed that there was a mark on the idle screw that didn't line up with the other mark on the case so I turned it to line up and bam idles fine now and the exhaust don't smoke really at all except a very little at wot

 

Looks like somebody has already peirced the yellow wire for the multimeter test