Help needed with a no start on a 2007 500 EFI
 

First, Thanks for all your help on my Magnum 325. It's purring like a kitten.

I also have a 2007 500 EFI Ranger is having a no start issue. It started after sitting for a few months, ran just fine for 20 minutes or so, I shut it off and now it won't start. It cranks over fine but just spins, no attempt to start, no popping or farting, just cranking. No CEL but I do have a blink code 22 (TPS) that won't clear by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour or so. I have fuel flow (seen by pulling the injector). I do get some popping with a spray of starter fluid but no full start.

My questions is - will a blink code 22 prevent a start?

Another problem is that the Ranger is out of the country so i don't have access to it until I can get back down on vacation. Last option is to trailer it back to the US and take it to a dealer :(

Thanks in advance

Do the basics if you haven't already. New plug,fresh gas,load test the battery as you can't tell just by battery voltage alone that a battery is good.Even on a brand new one out of the box.Most common problem on this year model whether a Ranger or Sportsman was a wiring or connector shorts in the t-bap(map) sensor harness not the sensors themselves. Also could be a short in the tps wiring or connector since you're throwing a code for it(22). Third possibility is the crank position sensor/wiring could be the problem. You really need the manual and hands on to visibly check the wiring,OR as common as sensor harness problems were,this place has better tbap and tps harness repair kits than what Polaris has.https://otbpowersports.com/products/ Also the grommet under the t-bap could be cracked and leaking.http://polaris-utv.servicemanualvaul...ce-Manual.html

Thanks

No codes for the CPS or T-bap. I did replace the grommet under the t-bap just because it seemed to sit "sloppy" on top of the intake manifold.

I did look along the harness for the tps but it went into the loom pretty quickly and it didn't look abraded or kinked. Is it typically in the connector that the failures occur?

I guess I'll grab a t-bap and tps harness for the next trip down.

I appreciate the help.

Codes may or may not always be shown for the t-bap or anything else,especially if it's a short or intermittent problem. That can be the frustrating part. My two cents is yes I'd grab a tps and tbap repair kit,especially since it is throwing a code 22 and also that tbap harness shorts are a known problem area and go from there.The manual does have a few things you can check if these don't fully solve the problem,but with efi you still can't beat Digital Wrench as there is only so much you can do with a meter in a garage.

Unfortunately, the tip of Baja is about 1000 miles from the nearest DW. Hopefully the harness' will do the trick.

Thanks for your help

Keep us updated on the progress.

What's the riding like down there in Baja? (not to throw salt onto the wound or anything :( Good luck. Sounds like your doing all the right things in checking different sources for the problem. Persistence will see you through...

For us the riding is all about the beach. Hauling kayaks, paddleboards and just general beach lounging stuff up and down our miles of white sand is what the Ranger and Magnum get used for.

As for the hard core riding, our development is on a road that gets used sometimes for the Baja 1000 and a lot of the local races - East Cape 350, Dos Mares and a few others. It's a lot of fun sitting at the front gate and watching Robby Gordon and Apdaly Lopez fly by in their Trophy Trucks at 120mph. It's a long, straight section of sandy, graded road with some air getting whoops. We get races going by the front door a few times a year.

As for the non-running Ranger, I think it's crap gas. I pulled the gas cap and fuel pump when I was down last week and they both looked like the deck chairs from the Titanic. So now I try fuel system parts. Oh well.

If you store it for any length of time us Marine Stabil,Star-tron,ect. That can at least help keep the fuel fresh for awhile and help protect from moisture.

Yep, I always use Stabil. This happened just after I poured in a 5 gallon tank that I'd swear I'd filled on my last trip a few months before. As I poured it it smell "wierd" I can't really nail it down more than that. Shortly after that the problems started. At the time I'd removed the gas cap and all appeared fine but this last time I pulled the cap (the tank was full to the top) and the 3 legs of the cap were twice their normal diameter from rust. I pulled the pump and all the hard metal looked the same - like it had been in salt water for years. All the pump wiring insulation and the fuel line from the pump body to the outlet crumbled to the touch. The screen was shredded like flat pasta. I had a pump, regulator and screen as a spare but the metal structure was so crapped out I didn't bother to try them.

I guess I'm stuck buying a new tank and pump assembly for $600 since they don't sell the pump assembly by itself. We'll just have to see if that does it after the next trip down in May.