'02 Sportsman 500 H.O. Clutch
#1
I did a search and found that my problem has been covered before.
Problem: The machine "creeps" when idling in gear. Sometimes I can't move the gear selector with the engine running. I have found that this problem can usually be solved by either shimming or installing a different spring.
I opened the clutch/belt cover and found that the belt is sticking to the interior side of the front pulley (the centrifugal clutch); so I figure I could shim it and get it back to the center of the pulley.
My questions are: would I shim the front or rear? I couldn't figure out how to pull the front pulley off, I tried the center bolt with a 5/8" dia. head but nothing gives. I then unbolted the assembly the six hex bolts that releases the spring and weights; but still could not move the pulley. I put it all back together and noticed that the belt was now aligned properly. I fired it up in neutral, moved the gear selector to all selections... no creep everything is peachy. I put it back into neutral and apply enough throttle to cause the centrifugal clutch to squeeze the belt, and then when I release the throttle the clutch fails to release the belt completely, also there is a slight whine and squeak. So now I’m thinking that it needs to be cleaned and or lubed. What are your thoughts? Sorry so long.
Thanks in advance.
-Jared
Problem: The machine "creeps" when idling in gear. Sometimes I can't move the gear selector with the engine running. I have found that this problem can usually be solved by either shimming or installing a different spring.
I opened the clutch/belt cover and found that the belt is sticking to the interior side of the front pulley (the centrifugal clutch); so I figure I could shim it and get it back to the center of the pulley.
My questions are: would I shim the front or rear? I couldn't figure out how to pull the front pulley off, I tried the center bolt with a 5/8" dia. head but nothing gives. I then unbolted the assembly the six hex bolts that releases the spring and weights; but still could not move the pulley. I put it all back together and noticed that the belt was now aligned properly. I fired it up in neutral, moved the gear selector to all selections... no creep everything is peachy. I put it back into neutral and apply enough throttle to cause the centrifugal clutch to squeeze the belt, and then when I release the throttle the clutch fails to release the belt completely, also there is a slight whine and squeak. So now I’m thinking that it needs to be cleaned and or lubed. What are your thoughts? Sorry so long.
Thanks in advance.
-Jared
#2
The clutch is designed to run dry, with no lubrication.
You say the clutch doesn't let go completely, with the engine off, can you open the front clutch up more, or not? If not, slow down your idle a little bit. The engine is idling to the point of just barely trying to grab the belt. If so, remove the belt, and push on the outside of the front pulley, to close it down. Release slowly. Does it open all the way? If not, remove the spring, and slide it open & shut, to feel if there is a catch. If there is, you will need to find out what is causing it. If it slides smooth, and you are positive the idle isn't too fast, you may need a new spring.
For shimming, you shim out the rear pulley. The front is pressed on fairly tight, but the rear clutch almost always comes off with a strong tug. Add whatever shims are necessary so the belt always returns to center in the front. This is actually fairly common on machines. As the clutches break in, if they wear to any direction at all, it is almost always to shim the rear pulley out. Remember to lightly grease the splines on the rear shaft before you re-install the pulley.
Farmr
You say the clutch doesn't let go completely, with the engine off, can you open the front clutch up more, or not? If not, slow down your idle a little bit. The engine is idling to the point of just barely trying to grab the belt. If so, remove the belt, and push on the outside of the front pulley, to close it down. Release slowly. Does it open all the way? If not, remove the spring, and slide it open & shut, to feel if there is a catch. If there is, you will need to find out what is causing it. If it slides smooth, and you are positive the idle isn't too fast, you may need a new spring.
For shimming, you shim out the rear pulley. The front is pressed on fairly tight, but the rear clutch almost always comes off with a strong tug. Add whatever shims are necessary so the belt always returns to center in the front. This is actually fairly common on machines. As the clutches break in, if they wear to any direction at all, it is almost always to shim the rear pulley out. Remember to lightly grease the splines on the rear shaft before you re-install the pulley.
Farmr
#3
Thanks Farmr ... That makes sense to me. I actually did pull the rear pulley and found that it would be easy enough to shim. Do you (or anyone that has done this before) know what size inside/outside diameter washer is needed?
Umm...
I sprayed some Tri-Flow lubricant on the shaft of the clutch.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] Is that going to be a problem? Should I take the whole thing apart and try to clean as much of the lube of as I can with a dry shop rag? What about clutch cleaners, is there such a thing and should I use some on this?
Thanks again,
-Jared
Umm...
The clutch is designed to run dry, with no lubrication. -Farmr123
Thanks again,
-Jared
#4
A rag might work. If there still seems to be a film on stuff, you can use electrical cleaner (comes in a spray can). It will wash off any gunk, and dry residue-free.
If you are certain that the surfaces where the belt rides are dry, you might be all right just cleaning out what you can with a rag. For future reference, all bushings are teflon-lined, and designed to be self-lubricating. I think the biggest worry about lubing the clutches would be excess finding its way on the belt.
Farmr
If you are certain that the surfaces where the belt rides are dry, you might be all right just cleaning out what you can with a rag. For future reference, all bushings are teflon-lined, and designed to be self-lubricating. I think the biggest worry about lubing the clutches would be excess finding its way on the belt.
Farmr
#5
Okay I was able to get the clutch all cleaned up. It does release completely but it isn't a smooth action and it whines and sqeaks a bit. Maybe there is some dry lube that I could use in there?? What do you think, any recomendations?
The belt still rides on the inside of the dive clutch, but it isn't being "pinched" between the two sheeves. Looks like I need to shim the driven clutch out a little bit. Looking here DRIVEN CLUTCH I am wondering were the shim would go? Is number (1) in the diagram something I could pattern the new shim from? And would I put in on between (1) and (2) or somewhere else?
Thanks for all your input in helping me (a novice mechanic) learn more about my quad![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
-Jared
The belt still rides on the inside of the dive clutch, but it isn't being "pinched" between the two sheeves. Looks like I need to shim the driven clutch out a little bit. Looking here DRIVEN CLUTCH I am wondering were the shim would go? Is number (1) in the diagram something I could pattern the new shim from? And would I put in on between (1) and (2) or somewhere else?
Thanks for all your input in helping me (a novice mechanic) learn more about my quad![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
-Jared
#6
I had the same problem with my belt drive. Before you do anything measure the width of the belt. If the belt is worn to thin this will make the grooves on the EBS belt jump over a groove on the one way bearing and ride on the inside of the driven clutch. This will make it creep and hard to shift.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
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