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Sportsman 500 owners, Need info on oil change? Just drain the oil tank and change the filter? Please help?
I just got a Polaris 500 Sportsman and want to change the oil. Do I just simply take the oil filter off and replace and tehn drain the oil tank or is their another spot to drain crankcase too like a dry sump system? I didnt get a book and wnat to make sure thats all to do. I work on other quads but this is my first Polaris psortsman.
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Sportsman 500 owners, Need info on oil change? Just drain the oil tank and change the filter? Please help?
There is a crankcase drain on the right side of the engine. 9/16" bolt.
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Sportsman 500 owners, Need info on oil change? Just drain the oil tank and change the filter? Please help?
You can buy the Polaris oil change kit from a dealer (about $25) that includes instructions... the process that I'll briefly outline here.
Another Important item to watch is Priming of the Dry Sump oil pump. The manual has a vague reference to this and I've found very little online - but I called Polaris and they were very helpful and faxed me the instructions - I'll also include them below. 1. Warm the engine 2. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil tank (the plastic tank) and drain. 3. Put a new sealing washer on the plug and reinstall - torque to 14-17 ft lbs 4. On the back of the oil tank (opposite the drain plug) there is the oil delivery hose. Disconnect this - it might be a clamp or might use a bolt. Behind this is a fitting - remove it. It contains the oil screen, which you should clean - this is really important! Reinstall the fitting and then the hose. 5. Remove the oil filter (watch for small amount of drip). Clean the sealing suface on the engine, lubricate the oil filter gasket with some clean oil, and install the new filter. Hand tighten 1/2 turn after the gasket contacts. 6. Remove the drain plug on the lower right side of the engine crankcase, drain the remaining oil, and reinstall the plug. 7. Add new oil - about 2 qts to start with (a little less if you skipped step 6). 8. Put in Neutra and run for about 2 minutes. Check for leaks. 9. Re-check the oil level and add as needed. OIL PUMP PRIMING. If your ATV was upside down (yup it happens!) or you disconnected the oil hose connection between the oil tank and the pump inlet, or you let it sit without oil - you may have lost the prime. Running the engine will damage it! Look at the oil tank. There is a vent hose that comes off of it and runs up to the air box. It has a small slit in it about 3" from the tank. 1. Clamp or pinch off the vent line about 2" from the oil tank (to avoid the end of the oil tank fitting, and before the pressure relief slit mentioned above). You can use visegrips for this. 2. Run the engine for 45 - 60 SECONDS. 3. Remove the clamp from the vent line. If the line is properly bled you should hear air release. If you do not hear air the line has not bled. Once this is done, the pump is primed and ready to go. |
Originally Posted by skimis
(Post 807891)
You can buy the Polaris oil change kit from a dealer (about $25) that includes instructions... the process that I'll briefly outline here.
Another Important item to watch is Priming of the Dry Sump oil pump. The manual has a vague reference to this and I've found very little online - but I called Polaris and they were very helpful and faxed me the instructions - I'll also include them below. 1. Warm the engine 2. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil tank (the plastic tank) and drain. 3. Put a new sealing washer on the plug and reinstall - torque to 14-17 ft lbs 4. On the back of the oil tank (opposite the drain plug) there is the oil delivery hose. Disconnect this - it might be a clamp or might use a bolt. Behind this is a fitting - remove it. It contains the oil screen, which you should clean - this is really important! Reinstall the fitting and then the hose. 5. Remove the oil filter (watch for small amount of drip). Clean the sealing suface on the engine, lubricate the oil filter gasket with some clean oil, and install the new filter. Hand tighten 1/2 turn after the gasket contacts. 6. Remove the drain plug on the lower right side of the engine crankcase, drain the remaining oil, and reinstall the plug. 7. Add new oil - about 2 qts to start with (a little less if you skipped step 6). 8. Put in Neutra and run for about 2 minutes. Check for leaks. 9. Re-check the oil level and add as needed. OIL PUMP PRIMING. If your ATV was upside down (yup it happens!) or you disconnected the oil hose connection between the oil tank and the pump inlet, or you let it sit without oil - you may have lost the prime. Running the engine will damage it! Look at the oil tank. There is a vent hose that comes off of it and runs up to the air box. It has a small slit in it about 3" from the tank. 1. Clamp or pinch off the vent line about 2" from the oil tank (to avoid the end of the oil tank fitting, and before the pressure relief slit mentioned above). You can use visegrips for this. 2. Run the engine for 45 - 60 SECONDS. 3. Remove the clamp from the vent line. If the line is properly bled you should hear air release. If you do not hear air the line has not bled. Once this is done, the pump is primed and ready to go. |
Shouldn't matter what year as they have basically been unchanged forever. These are the same instructions for the scrambler 500's also.
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The motor has not changed so its the same procedure on any Fuji single.
I just drain oil tank, then run motor for 20 seconds to pump out the remaining cup of oil out of the crankcase. I don't fool with the crank drain or the priming procedure and oil lines. All these oil filters work if you want to bypass the dealer, make sure you use "full synthetic" 0w-40 oil or at least 5w-30,5w-40 weight. These Oil Filters have 20 x 1.5mm threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. Motorcycle Filters. AC Delco PF2135 AMSOil SMF103 Carquest 85358 FRAM PH6017A Honda 15410-MCJ-000 K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal. NAPA Gold 1358 Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator. STP SMO 17 WIX 51358 WIX PS1358 Recommended filters. All have superior filtering. (I,m told) About 2.5 inches long. Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6. Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion. Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion. About 3.25 inches long. Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6. Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion. Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion. WalMart SuperTech ST7317,about $2. Made by Champion. Buy these filters Automobile Filters,about 2.5 inches long. AC Delco PF1237 Baldwin B1400 Firestone TF2876 Hastings LF113 NAPA Gold 1365 Purolator L14612 STP S-02876 WalMart SuperTech ST6607 WIX 51365 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. AC Delco PF-2057 Auto Pro 2356 Autopride CF240AP Baldwin B1402 Carquest 85356 Carquest Red B4620 Casite CF240 Castrol 7317 Champion Labs Ph2867 Defense Filters Dl7317 Deutsch D-370 Federated Filters LF240F Fram PH6607 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. Fram Double Guard DG7317 Fram PH7317 Fram Tough Guard TG7317 Fram Xtra Guard XG7317 Group 7 V4610 Group 7 V4620 Hastings LF240 Mighty M4612 Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 Napa FIL1356 Napa Gold 1356 Parts Plus PH2867 Pennzoil PZ-109 Penske 7317 Powerflo SL14610 Powerflo SL14620 Pro Gauge PGO-4620 Pro Tec 164 Promotive PH4610 Pronto PO3593A Purolator L14610 Service Champ OF-4622 Shell SH48 Shell SH529 Stp S-02867. Valvoline VO50 Warner PH2867 Wix 51356 Wix PS1358 (specific for ATV's) What ever that means. |
Great info!
This post came in handy as I changed oil in my Sportsman for the first time-short but sweet! I added a little short-cut that made the job even easier-I used the manual oil pump that I use to pump out oil from my boat motor through the dip stick tube, and it worked fine. After I completed the job there was no sign of contamination by the old oil.
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Originally Posted by Silver Ram
(Post 3390372)
This post came in handy as I changed oil in my Sportsman for the first time-short but sweet! I added a little short-cut that made the job even easier-I used the manual oil pump that I use to pump out oil from my boat motor through the dip stick tube, and it worked fine. After I completed the job there was no sign of contamination by the old oil.
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Polaris 500 oil change
That is exactly how I did it except I used a vacuum pump to drain the tank both times. The pump tube must have gone right to the lowest point in the tank and the running engine must have pumped it dry-I had no discoloration in the fresh oil after the job was completed. (Actually the pump I use now works on pressure rather than vacuum and it works much better than vacuum.)
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Yes sir,sounds like that's another way to do the same thing. There's still folks out there that do pull the sump plug,afraid of running a dry engine for a few seconds.Never had a problem,at least no one ever came back and jumped me about a burnt up engine. Plus how I originally heard about doing this was from a Polaris engineer years ago.Took me a while before I tried it though.
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