polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas"></title><script src=
 

about the no power problem,i didn,t here anyone mention checking or cleaning the fuel filter????

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas"></title><script src=
 

[img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas"></title><script src=
 

i had a very similar problem with my 03 500 sportsman. It would bog out above idle and had a verry bad stumble in it. Bike was running very rich. The retaining clip on the needle (the plastic upper one) was worn slightly and could slip up inside the spring. This would suspend the needle causing it to runn very rich. It happened in August. Polaris dealer readgusted the clip and it ran great. Last weekend while snowplowing with it it happened again. I have ordered new spring, clips, and needle. Should put the issue to bed for a while. You might wan,t to check yours out. It is an inexpensive fix. Before it went to the polaris shop i changed plug. plug boot.air filter checked cams for wear. changed gas , checked the throttle safety switch etc, etc ,etc, etc. I probably could have just changed the clips but the needle,spring and all three clips were under $50 at the Polaris dealer. Don't know if this helps or not but it is something you can easily check yourself, without having to go to the dealer $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas
 

im having the same prob wont rev and no power, mine is leakingh fuel out of a tube coming from bottom of bowl,im assuming this meens its getting to much fuel and i have to also adjust the fuel screw.

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas
 

check the spring and plastic clip

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas
 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: rungunner

Sgajan,

Since yours is also backfiring it sounds like we have identical problems here. Don't worry too much as we will solve this problem, sometimes it just takes time. If you pull the air box off and run the machine you can look in the back of the carb to see if your diaphram is pulling the slide up as you give it gas. Check that out. move the jet needle clip all the way to the top and see if your problem gets any better like mine did. As far as the fuel screw it is on the very bottom of the carb, You can loosen up the carb and turn it in the carb boot and you will see it on the bottom. take this and gently turn it all the way in and come out 2 full turns and run the machine and come out another 1/2 turn and see if there is a difference. I am not sure of the correct setting for Polaris because I have yet to recieve my manual. Another theory is that the exaust lobe is worn so much that it is popping because the exaust valves are not opening correctly and there fore it is popping out the carb instead of the other side. How many miles on yours?</end quote></div>

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas
 

hey rungunner, i have the same problem as this guy. you mentioned see if throttle cable is moving needle, its not moving mine at all. needle just sits there when i mash down accelerator. what could this mean? thanx

polaris sportsman 500 Motor boggs bad when i give it gas
 

i have the same problem 2002 sportsman 500, at first it would not start, i replaced stator, pulser & coil no its hard to start it but once running it idles fine till i mash on the throttle and it bogs bad and back fires and it also back fires starting it also. i don't know im getting pretty aggravated with it, i may just say the heck with it and part it out,im just sick of working on it just to be disappointed over and over.

hey guys i have an 02 sports 500 ho and im having the same problem, if i put into high the bike will move but oce u start rolling and give more gas it boggs, same for low, and reverse is dif it will move faster till i get into the throttle. if i put it into high and awd on the bike will not move.... this all started when it flipped out of the truck and broke the head light pod and speedo also cut the black, brown, brown/white off the awd plug.. i have re connected wires but dont want to spend the money on a new speedo, im thinking their might be a safety switch keeping the bike from going full speed, something that reads movement threw the speedo. my yamaha has a setup like that, my speed cable unhooked and the bike went into a limp mode.

update i pulled the lid off the air box are almost 100% fixed. i noticed on top end she kinda surges, so im thinking fuel mixure. am i going to have to ride with out the lid or will the fuel mix screw fix this?

my kids runs a 2000 polaris 500 that back fires through carb and wont run above idle , at 1/4 to full throttle it bogs and dies. replaced plug, removed air filter, fresh fuel. read this entire post and this morning removed plastic, tank and rocker cover found exhaust lobe on cam worn almost round .....removed cam and will try with new..

plz! let us know how cams replacement goes, need to know asap, and how can i check the exhaust lobe on cams , where do i look?

one thing i noticed was with air filter removed and idleing as i gave it full throttle there would be fuel mist coming out of carb in to air box just before it bogged out. now to check the cam remove front plastic.( yes you can get it past the headlight pod with force) remove fuel tank, remove cover on top of engine 8mm bolts and start it up (wont run for long as only fuel in float bowl on carb) with engine running you should notice the intake rockers(out side two) moving approx 5/16'' and center rocker(exhaust) just barely moves, if this is the case your exhaust lobe is worn off. to be sure remove rocker shaft pedestals and rocker shaft(4 10 mm bolts) now that cam is expsed feel all 3 lobes all should be the same if center one is smaller and miss shapen cam is junk...to remove cam start by remove cam gear cover rh side, 8mm socket. down by pull start there is a 5/8 bolt sticking up remove this to see timing mark pull eng over to tdc. remove cam tentioner ( 2 8mm bolts rh side) . remove 3 bolts that hold cam gear to cam(mark gear to chain) tie gear up with wire keeping tention on chain. go to left side remove water line elbow fron head(2 8mm bolts, remove 3 8mm bolts that hold decompession cover on. and slide cam out left side carefull not to let decompression parts fall out of center of cam. when ordering parts get a manual $60 canadian. good luck

After reading 10 pages I still don't see where the initial problem was solved. My 04.5 SP 500 just started to exhibited the bogging and popping once it was given throttle. I went through all the steps except I didn't mess with the cam as since my problem happened suddenly and wasn't gradual I figured it couldn't be a worn cam plus I only have 1400 miles or so. Has anyboy out there pinpointed how to fix this problem? It seems like there's a common enough theme that it must be something specific.

Well I hate to break your heart but your probably not going to find the solution here unless your problem is the cam being worn down. I had this problem with my polaris and I spent a year and a half trying to fix this thing and I finally was able to get it working enough to sell it. My fix involved removing the air filter and that metal plate that retains the air filter, with those pieces removed the bike would run good as new. I have no idea why this fixed my problem but it did, temporarily atleast. I had many qualified techs scratching there heads on this one, no one could figure it out. I also have read just about every post dealing with this issue and the only sure fix is a replacement cam, if your cam is worn down, if not then good luck figuring this one out..

Yes, it is a frustrating issue, I took the fuel pump apart last night and found all kinds of sediment in the chamber and wondered where that could come from. I went and ordered a new pump just to see if that might be the problem. I know in my case that since it runs better with the airbox lid off it's either one of two things, getting too much fuel or not enough air. I'll keep trying and reading.

Fuel pump could be your issue. I went over my Fuel pump when I was having the same problems and mine was clean. Does yours run at full power with air box removed? or without air filter and retaining plate? Have you checked your valve clearance?

I'm hoping that the fuel pump is the problem, I had to order one from the dealer and it won't be in until next week. I did notice one thing when I took the lines off the pump was that there was gas present in the impulse line which the manual says is the result of a ruptured diaphram although when tested with a mitivac it holds pressure. However if there is gas in this line that would be dumping more fuel in the carb, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is it, if not I'm contemplated taking it to the dealer. Yes, I did check the valve clearance and it was ok. Mine starts fine and idles but when you open the throttle it starts to load up, with or without the airbox lid, the only way to keep it running it to keep feathering the throttle. As to why the pump is full of dirt on that one side is there are vent holes for each of those chambers to allow the diaphrams to get air, seems like a poor design especially where the pump is located in the wheel well where it is exposed to dirt, mud, and water.

I finally have up and took it to the dealer and he even had trouble fixing it. He went through all the steps I did, fuel, spark, etc. and couldn't find the problem. Second time around he found the problem, it was a small ring under the main jet that had deteriorated over time causing an excessive amount of fuel to enter the main jet system. The machine runs great now. The dealer had about 6 1/2 hours of time into it and only charged me 3 hours, which made me happy. The part number is 3130919 if you want to look it up. Never even saw this part when I had the carb apart.

2000 polaris 500
 

I have the same problem ,bogs at half throttle. I replaced with new cam ,thats when the problem started. It works prefect with airbox removed,I replaced the airbox blocked onequarter of the opening, replaced the air filter,works good now.don't under stand why it just does.

im having the same problem, ive replaced clutch, belt, needle and seat, air filter, spark plug, cleaned the carb, i took the carb off and used rtv to get a better seal against the engine, rtv'd the entire air intake so that it is air tight etc etc... i have gas still coming out the bottom of the carb, gas spraying into the intake from the carb when i give it throttle, boggs down backfires through carb. the exaust cam has been my suspect as of late when i pulled off the cover like was said in the previos post the rocker arms move slightly and the cam moves less it is exhibiting all the symptoms of the exaust cam being worn so thats my last try before i hand it over to the dealer.

There is a service bullitin that was put out on these late 90 model sportsmans about the air filter sucking to tank. My buddy had a 335 would run great then he would get on it and wouldnt throttle more than halfway and bog out it may appear to be off the tank but can while riding it actually move and suck to the tank the service guy at the polaris dealer here showed him how to cut the tube so it wouldnt suck to the tank. It may not be the problem but its worth a try.

you also gotta watch out for the foam around your gas tank slipping down and covering up the intake.

cam woes
 

hey yall, just wanted to say thanks for all the postings about the Sportsman 500 - just bought one with the exact same problems as described in the last 11 pages. We suspected the cam and you all confirmed it - same symptoms. If lobe is worn will be looking for a non-plaris part...any suggestions on a reasonable priced aftermarket cam and exhaust rocker? Thanks again (I love the WWW).

ive been searching the net for days now for a aftermarket cam but havnt found anything. its looking like the only option is oem, which gos for about 250.

Hello, i had a similar problem with a Trailblazer 250. I took apart the carb, cleaned the main jet and pilot jet, then moved the jet needle down one notch.It runs like a champ now. I did have to also adjust the throttle freeplay. Good luck

Might help...
Put the atv in a dark place and check for spark plug wire failure.
I replaced the bad wire and fixed all problems.

Have same problem with both of my 500 scramblers. Both will idle all day. One has black plug and smokes. Think the timing is off. Other one just recently hapened. Going to check everything i read in this forum. Hoping its just valve clearence or somthing simple. Tearing into both of them tomorrow. Will update.

Not sure what these guys sell the Cam for can,t hurt to ask. Aaen Performance - Polaris ATV 500

These Guys sell the OEM for $260 Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

The worn Cam was a pre 2001 thing. All replacement cams are now the High duration H.O cam now on any 500,425,455, even for the pre H.O sportsmans.

camshaft
 

I found a place on ebay the price is 250 usd and has lifetime warranty cycles r us are the selers also can find them on line it wears out they replace that price is with exhaust roker arm included

I have a 97 sporty as well. I just put a new piston rings cylinder and had head surfaced with a fresh valve job... also put on a new coil and plug wire and new sparkplug boot. The bike starts and idles fine however it wont pull hardly at all... i did run it through a big piddle of water before i did all this work and adter the first big splash the bike came to life and ran.like it is supposed to. Then it dried out after a few min and back.to the same ole story..
Any ideas???

Check all your electrical connection,use dielectric grease to help protect from water. I'd also check out the clutches and belt for any problems.

i have a 97 or 98 sporty 500 as well... im having a great deal of problems getting it to run right as wel... i just replaced the whole top end and im still having the original problem of not building rps but idling fine... today i took the air cleaner tube off of the carb and looked in the back of the carb while it was running... i gave it full throttle and the slide never moved... i took a screw driver and pushed the slide up while giving it throttle and the bike came to life... i took the top of the carb off and pulled the diaphram and slide out and indpected it... i noticed that the diaphram would spin around the top of the slide.. im thinking this may be where the vacuume leak is that is keeping the slide from moving.... ill let yall know tomorrow if my little patch job worked...

Possible this could be your problem,but make sure it's not the spring binding up also. A new slide assy isn't cheap,about 90 bucks. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

I put a brand new carb on the sporty.... it runs great now... i think it may need a new plug to get it all the way back to normal.... bit im happy with it now
.

:thumbsup: I'd run a little ethanol gas treatment in every tank to keep that new carb clean and running good.. Good luck!

Ive got a 01 polaris sportsman 500 ho RSE edition. Replaced cam, cause of bad lobe and now it wont start at all. Timing is good , spark is good, where do i start.

If it at least ran before the cam change then retrace your steps. If it didn't run,it's just a process of elimination. Must have spark,fuel,air and compression(55-90 psi on average because of the exhaust detent) to run along with correct cam timing. If it's been sitting could need a carb clean/carb kit. Try a little starting fluid to see if at least tries to start. If it wont crank up with starting fluid the cam timing,valve clearance,etc may not be correct.

the mixture screw is hidden under a brass cover on the rear bottom of a cv carb....drill out a small hole that is already in the brass cover large enough to get a sheet metal screw to grab it and pull the brass cap out and the mixture screw is under it.....be careful not to drill to far stop as soon as u get thru the brass cap. screw it all the way in and then back out 3 full turns for under 6000ft and 3.5 turns for over 6000ft......

the mixture screw is hidden under a brass cover on the rear bottom of a cv carb....drill out a small hole that is already in the brass cover large enough to get a sheet metal screw to grab it and pull the brass cap out and the mixture screw is under it.....be careful not to drill to far stop as soon as u get thru the brass cap.