I know what you are saying, a mild miss can appear to go away at high RPMs like you said. Like Scramber said it could be a T-BAP or TPS issue. Did it start after you replaced the plugs? Have you pulled the plugs since the issue started to read them? I would start with a thorough inspection of all connectors and wiring. Any chace you didn't get the plug wires seated properly? Inspecting the T-BAP sensor and cleaning with some electronics cleaner couldn't hurt. Sometimes they will get coated with oil. There are ways to check the TPS volatge with a multimeter but I do not have the schematics in front of me. I would hope that if the TPS or T-BAP were giving erratic readings that it would throw a code, but from my experience with many types of EFI machines that isn't always the case.

 

It threw code 41 at me today, does anyone know what this is? I need to check my manual. Also i changed the solenoid out today so its not clicking anymore with the new one. Do you think the fuel filter could possibly be clogged it has to be electronic or fuel related? Also whats T-Bap and Tps and where are they located on the machine? Thanks Guys!

 

If it's the same code as on a 500, and I know some are the same, it's <u>air temp sensor low voltage</u> or <u>air temp sensor high voltage</u>.

 

According to my manual for an 08 800 41 is Air temp sensor : open or short circuit to sensor voltage.Or Air temp sensor:short circuit to ground.

Looking at my schematic if you look at the ECM connector pin 4 the temp sensor ground, pin 5 is the 5v reference signal,pin 7 is the air temp signal,pin23 is the baro signal. The wires are in the same order in the temp sensor connector, if you hold the connector with the latch up the ground wire is on the far left(should be purple) and the baro wire on the far right, with the other 2 wires in the middle in the same order. Make sense? lol

 

Had this happen this past week on vacation in Tennessee to the point it was like it was in limp mode ( if there is such thing). The check eng lite came on and when I did the dig check it was a 41 code. I removed the seat and at the wire conector at the sencer located on the air intake.... the Blue wire had broke at the solder joint and just pulled out of the water tight conector, To finish the day I worked the rubber plug out of the conector and pushed it back over the BLUE wire, I striped the wire back about a 1/4 inch and pushed it back in the slot with some force to get connection and pushed the VERY small rubber plug back into the connector and put some tape to hold it in. All was good and the check eng lite went off. I rode another 100 miles this way until I got home. Dealer has the replacement just need to get the unit to there shop.

 

So how do i go about fixing the sensor or do i just check the wiring?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PolarisAtv55

So how do i go about fixing the sensor or do i just check the wiring?</end quote></div>

Depending on how expensive the sensor is, and how soon you can get one I would check the wiring and connectors first. Trace the wires, look for obvious physical damage. If you don't find any, disconnect the battery. Disconnect the ECM connector and the temp sensor connector and check the wires I listed above for continuity with a multi/ohm meter, also check each wire for a short to ground and battery voltage. If all that checks good then try the sensor. I'm sure there are specs for checking the sensor with a meter, but they aren't in my manual.

 

Once again thanks for all the help guys. Could the fuel filter be a reason for this sputtering? Maybe needs to be cleaned or replaced?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PolarisAtv55

Once again thanks for all the help guys. Could the fuel filter be a reason for this sputtering? Maybe needs to be cleaned or replaced?</end quote></div>

I wouldn't think so because it appears to go away at higher speeds where fuel demand is higher. If it was a fuel supply problem it would be more noticable at higher speeds where the load an fuel demands are the highest.
I would resolve the t-bap issue and see if that fixes it. The t-bap is one of the main sensors the ecm uses to determine fueling, if it is giving false readings fueling could be way off causing a very lean or rich condition,either of which could cause your symptoms.