Polaris 500 Scrambler AWD left front staying engaged when in 2wd
 

I have a 2005 Polaris Scrambler 500 AWD and just replaced the magnetic coil and seal sleeve on the left front hub. And I also replaced the garter spring on the clutch assembly on the same hub. It was not engaging in AWD when the switch was turned on. It does now.


BUT when the switch is in the 2WD position, it is still engaged. The right wheel is fine... We had this problem before. It would engage in and out whenever it felt like it. Then, it just stopped working totally.

All the parts seem good and we did everything the manual said. We even replaced the same parts on the right front last year and its working like a charm. This is not the first time I've dealt with this type of repair.

But this left side has us baffled. Please give us some pointers on what to do next. I don't want my wife being sent up a hill again and having the thing flip on her like it did 2 years ago (true story! It damn near killed her!)

maybe the armature plate,are you using the demaqnd drive fluid in it?

The armature plate has very little wear marks on it and yes, we are using the demand drive fluid.

Even though the armature plate may look good,they can and will become magnetized after so often allowing awd to keep engaged even with 2 wheel drive mode,common problem. I'd replace BOTH plates as the other will go to. This was one of most things I did on the older models, have had some wrecks because of magnetized plates! Make sure torque is 12 foot pounds on hub nut after replacing plates.
OPT

Thanks, Old Polaris Tech, That makes perfect sense!

i have a 2000 scrambler 500 awd, left front wheel only stays in awd, almost threw me off the atv. i removed left side and realized there was hardly any lube in it and the armature plate had grooves in it and bent. im worried about the hilliard clutch bearings, should they move frealy?I am upset because ive read so many different reasons for this problem and dont have a lot of money to just replace it all. i have not inspected the right wheel yet but that one is not stuck it actualy move very free. im just so lost and some local shops give me the run around and just tell me its going to be $$$. any ideas would be great.

Most of the ones I've encountered like this, hub fluid wasn't changed on a regular basis,or had a hub or strut seal leaking and owners didn't notice. What little oil if any just turned to sludge and when they finally noticed something was wrong was when the machine started pulling even in two wheel drive! Usually you can clean up the cage and roller bearings,but replace BOTH armature plates as the other side will eventually magnetize like the bad one! If mine,I would replace the hub and strut seals,armature plates,plus check the bearings and races for wear and scoring.In worst case scenarios,I've even replaced hubs that were grooved where the hillard rides and even struts when the armature plate ground down the inner strut casting!. The more you can do yourself you can save some$$. Plus change the fluid often!(minimum every 50 hrs OR less) It only holds a few ounces and has to lube everything! OPT

bearings
 

should the hilliard clutch bearings move freely? mine see to be snug on most of them and on may roll smooth, i am worried i may have to replace and that alone is 100 bucks.I have a new set of bearings for the front so i will replace them and i also ordered 2 new plates.the hilliard clutch is worring me.

As long as the cage isn't grooved or ground down where it meets the armature plate and the rollers aren't pitted,you can usually clean up the hilliard and reuse.Just be careful with the spring.Plus usually the inside spacer at the back of the hilliard can bind and stick and you can use some emory cloth on it and lightly sand inside the hilliard housing also to where it will roll a little easier. OPT

Scrambler 500
 

Sorry for all the questions. I cant seem to get this much help anywere I realy am greatfull for your advise and suggestions.i ordered a new hilliard clutch. Mine was in bad shape. It had grooves on it and the 3 spots notched out were bad looking from abuse. I realy hope all of this is my problem, if it ends up being something electrical its out of my comfort area. its obvious there was neglect on that hub. no fluid was in it at all. I'm replacing, all bearings and seals,hilliard clutch,armiture plates(for both sides)new fluid of course, im also replacing new axle on the bad side due to it boot being torn and in bad shape. If i missing anything important please let me know."worse case" if it still doesnt work how can i make the awd not work at all and i will be able to use it as a 2wd atv until i can afford to take it somewere? thanks again