Or, Off = Red Red/White Disconnected Black & Brown Connected. On = Red Red/White Connected, Black & Brown Disconnected. Trying not to confuse myself also.

 

Brown being the main ground wire,then yes black with it grounds the spark to the frame.Red is constant power,red white is powered up when the switch is on. Looks like you have the major components,but I'd work on getting an ignition switch also as long as the harness connector hasn't been cut off..

 

The 4 Wires that come out of the Distribution box are still there but there is no connector at the end. The switch I bought was an Ebay special with 4 separate wires. I got it bought pretty cheap and was lucky enough to get a title with it. Cheap enough my wife didn't attempt to kill me and I'm not divorced yet :-) All the plastic is in good shape minus stickers. It'll be a project that hopefully doesn't turn into a money pit.

 

Keep us updated. I'd cross my fingers for you but I can't..

 

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but, Mine does the...runs with the black wire disconnected thing too. Albeit, runs kinda crappy, backfiring etc. I've traced the wires from both the ignition switch,and the stop/run/stop switch searching for any shorts, the wires look fine. One more symptom I noticed is, when I cycle the key, or i cycle the run switch, it will start and stay running as long as i hold the key in the start position (which I havent done for any extended period) would that indicate any particular failed component? before I go throwing $ at the 3 in question. This is on a 2002 325 magnum. Thanks !

 

If you pulled the black wire from the cdi,did you pull the black wire from the reverse limiter also? Item#29. If you haven't,pull it's black wire and see if it runs ok with the cdi black wire hooked back up. Reverse limiters can cause problems when they fail also.

 

Yep! That worked! I havent took it for a spin yet, but it now starts and runs. Is it ok to leave it like that? or do I need to replace something? I just replaced that rev limiter today (because I had the problem of it dying when shifting into reverse unless holding down the override) and it ran and started fine initially then did the above 5 minutes later. Thank you very much for the speedy response and help!

 

Tape the wire connector up so it can't ground out on anything and leave the module as is. You'll have full power in reverse without having to push the over ride.If you have awd you may still have to push the button to engage awd if needed though. I gave customers the choice of replacing them or leaving as is. Most didn't want to replace them..I hated these limiter modules almost as much as I hated ecm modules on the later models. Glad that solved the problem.

 

OK good deal! Mine IS AWD, will I only possibly need to push the override to engage the AWD or will I have to keep holding it down for AWD to stay engaged?

 

You'll still have full power in reverse,but yes you may have to hold the over ride down to keep the awd engaged. Some said that they didn't have to? It's been too long for me to remember either way. You'll just have to test it. One other thing that people have done is to bypass the over ride button completely. Never did it myself,but here's what they've done:

PRE 2003 AND ALMOST ALL MODELS THAT DO NOT HAVE A COMBINED OVERIDE/SPEEDO FUNCTION BUTTON.

TRACE WIRES FROM THE OVERRIDE BUTTON(GRAY/WHITE AND GRAY/ORANGE) CUT THE GRAY/ORANGE AND TAPE UP BOTH ENDS. CUT THE GRAY/WHITE AND TAPE UP END WHICH GOES TO THE OVERIDE BUTTON. CONNECT THE OTHER END OF THE GRAY/WHITE TO THE RED/WHITE (IGNITION SUPPLIED 12V) YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO TRACE THE PURPLE WIRE WHICH COMES FROM THE HANDLEBARS AND SIMPLY CUT AND TAPE BOTH ENDS........