yea you helped me with that coupler before and i did replace it but i never greased it due to the fact that oddly enough my old coupler didnt have the zerk fitting in it but the new one has the hole so i can put a fitting in it. i never greased it and never had a issue out of it. something is telling me that it is going to be in the transmission or the transfer case just because of the kind of jerking it is but i just dont understand it because i was riding the atv slowly down my driveway when all this started. if the problem had started when i was ******* it out then i could understand it but i was riding it really nice down the driveway and it just started doing that for no reason (the jerking the smell and everything). my mother was riding with me and she noticed the smell and she rode it a few days later and said it was doing it again but idk.

 

Like I mentioned the jerking also can come from the belt/ clutch area,plus the smell could be from the belt. If you replaced the coupler,I'd check clutches out next.If it's not a clutch problem,then it can get a little more involved if it's a transmission or rear diff problem.

 

Maybe this is common sense but I always put a good amount of tension on the FW with the puller. Then pull the assembly toward me to take up any slack in the crank. Then give it a good whack on the center bolt with a good heavy hammer. The sharp rap with the hammer knocks it lose way before a super heavy tension on the puller does.

 

ok here is a update on the polaris,, as it turns out there was two problems one of which im not 100% on but will check into it later. 1.the clutch has some play in it and when i removed the belt i could see where it looked like it had burnt the belt a little and also is 90% of the knocking i was hearing because without the clutch on it the noise is practically gone. 2. i believe that the magneto is starting to go bad and that the magnets on the flywheel are coming loose because i can see the lights flickering and there is the squeeling i have heard come from it from time to time. i believe between these two things getting fixed then i should have it about right again. i have a 85 honda 250es big red that a friend of mine is working on it for me and when he gets done with it then he is going to put a 6" lift on it for me as well lmao. i cant wait. thank you yet again oldpolaristech for helping me to get pointed in the right direction to fixing the bike for like the 1000th time lmao.

 

Clutch probably needs the guide buttons replaced along with rear clutch ramp buttons and belt. If lights are flickering could be from a weak battery or faulty regulator not charging the battery. Must show around 14 volts or so at the battery while at an idle. If any noise is coming from the stator area,stop and pull the flywheel and check things out. If the magnets fly off they usually destroy stators..

 

james, i have beat it heated it and even resorted to religious methods and also used some strong words that i cant repeat. i went with the electric pump and it has worked flawlessly for a week, until today. a front hub has gave way and now i have a new problem. but the electric water pump works great. now to the front hub...

 

For grins and giggles I found this on one guy's method of removing a 350 flywheel.

 

opt, i seen that video before, i tried his method and found out quick that you cannot believe everything you see on the internet. you notice that he does not actually do this method. he only talks about it. maybe after i fix the front hubs on my rig i can run mine enough to "loosen it up". i still want to fix it the right way. maybe if i leave the nut off it might vibrate off. lol

 

That's why I posted it to show some of the strange things people do or say they have done. First thing that came to my mind was if he used jaw pullers on the thin recoil cup slots is that he'd just destroy the cup if he went too far and rip the slots out.Too weak to be able to take the pressure. Like the old saying don't believe anything you hear and half what you see..