92 polaris 350l 4x4 flywheel
#1
92 polaris 350l 4x4 flywheel
i have a water leak that is going in to the counter balance case that looks to be a bad seal in the water pump housing. the problem for me is that the flywheel seems to be very stubborn. before i buy a more expensive flywheel puller, is there anyone out there have a solution to using a standard 3 bolt puller without breaking bolts. i have broke a few although the bolts were not high grade. the problem is finding metric bolts that are long enough to use with a standard puller. SLP makes a puller for around 55 bucks but i thought maybe someone may have had the same issue. i have thought about heating flywheel but with the stator behind it i don't want to damage it. any thoughts? thanks,
#2
Heating the flywheel is what I've had to do many times along with using a good penetrant such as PB Blater or Liquid Wrench on hard to remove/rusted on flywheels. You can "rent" heavy duty harmonic balancer pullers from most auto shops(just a refundable deposit required) if you have to,plus any good hardware store should have good quality metric bolts.I had a few bolts I used over and over that came from hardware stores such as Ace,etc.
#3
#4
well after 2 heavy duty pullers breaking i have given up trying to pull the flywheel. i am going to attempt an electric water pump and seal the water pump housing. the pump can can run 14 liters a minute, hopefully enough to keep it cool. i will update my progress later. later will install a temp gauge maybe also. i have read that this solution has worked and they do it regularly on motorcycles for power.
#5
Never had a flywheel I couldn't pull.. Are you using an impact along with heat and penetrant? Impacts are the easy way to go about removing them. Have had to let several sit for awhile under pressure and reapply heat,but they all eventually popped off. Are you using a good heavy duty harmonic balancer puller also? You can rent these at any auto store.
#6
have tried everything from fire to lube. i bought a 20-205 puller that was supposed to do the job. broke 1 replaced it and broke another. re-welded the last one and broke it again. i used an impact and also used a big break over bar wrench. hopefully when i get this thing going, i can ride it quite a bit and maybe later take it off and fix it the correct way.
#7
oldpolaristech i was trying to find out if there was a way to send you a private message but i couldnt. i need to ask you about a issue i am having and i dont know how to explain it other than to say that my atv wasnt having any issues until i changed the master cylinder and even though i know the issue isnt related to the brakes i am now having a issue with a weird noise almost like a knocking coming from it and a weird burnt smell. i have already checked the belt and it is still in good shape with no fraying.
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#8
#9
couldnt really tell where the smell was coming from and not sure on the knocking as both of these were things my mother said she heard and smelt. i know that i noticed when i was riding it that it was jerking pretty bad almost like it was the trans slipping or something. the bike is a 99 polaris magnum 500.
#10
Don't know about the smell,brake fluid or oil possibly? But one common problem that may be the cause of the jerking is the coupler leading from the transmission to the rear differential. Most people overlook the grease fitting on it or don't even see the coupler because the box frame hides it. Only way to grease it is through a small hole in the frame. Just jack the machine up and turn the tires back and forth.If the coupler splines are stripped or worn you can tell pretty quick.Coupler is softer metal than the the prop shaft and rear diff shaft by design. Item #17 in the parts breakdown. Dirt Cheap Yamaha & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If this appears to not be the problem,still could be a clutch/belt problem.